Since the shop manual procedure requires owning an accurate spring scale, and disconnecting the pitman arm, I suspect experienced mechanics likely just develop a feel for the proper tension, and avoid all the extra work? Since I may soon be attending a clinic on steering box maintenance, I was wondering if others have learned a few adjusting shortcut tricks over the years they might want to share?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Daniel: I and I'm sure others would be interested in what you learn at the clinic. Unfortunately, it's fairly common for old Ford car boxes up thru 1957 to develop flat spots. 58 and later boxes are an updated design. When I tried to get parts for a 57 box I found that it was difficult to find anyone that could supply all the parts likely to need replacing such as the worm & sector, bearings, shims etc. This situation may or may not apply to early T.Birds.. My car is converted to a 58 box, however doing that led to Horn issues, which is another story..


Paul

Some things I would like to get answered:



Were the FoMoCo shop manual pre-load specs. largely a customer satisfaction based compromise between steering ease & worm gear wear? Is there any latitude for personal preference? I LIKE TIGHT STEERING (one of the reasons I'm not partial to power assist). No women drive my car!

Back when there was a lot of runout in my wheels/hubs, I went with less pre-load adjustment to eliminate transmitted steering wheel vibration/wear. After I installed new Michelin radials (and trued my wheels/hubs), it was suddenly like driving on bias-ply tires again when windy. Tightening a 1/4 turn made a big improvement.



Is pure STP really an inadequate stand-alone lubricant? It sure doesn't leak out, and may thus postpone steering box rebuilding indefinitely.




6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Daniel, the spring gauge tensions for setting preload are only meant for new components within tolerances. As you know adjusting the steering box with wheels straight ahead, you are lowering hardened sector roller into mesh with the soft steering shaft worm, if the worms worn, you will try to adjust it too much to remove slop which will increase load on unworn ends of worm helping to increase wear. As you say, how tight should the steering be, i suggest its like the feel you get when removing feeler gauges when adjusting rockers, Too loose a feel results in slop and Too tight results in binding, so in between is only a compromise. The worm on right shows start of wear and the worm on left shows end result, usually from too much adjustment. This is only my view on the subject. regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Bill,

Thanks for the feedback. If I learn anything valuable this weekend, I'll post it.

Since I've been squirreling away all the needed steering box rebuild parts, I'm thus tempted (for now) to trade any promised extension/longevity of the original for more precise steering. If the worm wears out, so be it. Nothing lasts forever.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Dan

Have you looked at the adjusting "screw" that goes into the end of your drag link? How are the two springs inside there...how much slop do you see when you turn your steering wheel before the drag link really starts to move...



I rebuilt my 57 box this winter and am still figuring the answers to the above.



Have fun at your training...



Gt

Gordie T           Long Point, Ontario

Gordie,



Good idea. I replaced that just a few years ago with a NOS part, but should definitely check to see how much it may have worn-in since (I even bought the big screwdriver/ratchet attachment for it). As it was kept well-lubed though after replacement, and so much improvement was realized from steering box adjustment, I don't suspect much wear as there was no perceptible play in the steering wheel/drag link connection.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Tech clinic was rather anti-climactic. In a nutshell; if seals are so shot that even STP leaks out, final step before forced hassle/expense of box rebuilding involves cutting the breather cap off filler plug and installing a zerk fitting. Though bearing/chassis grease will likely channel, and oil would eventually separate from carrier/binder and leak out the seal, packing the box whenever chassis lube is performed would still be better than nothing.



Also, survey of those running STP-only for over 15 years with adequate worm tension, revealed no increased wear was noticed (reassuring).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I run 90 weight gear oil in my 56, I rebulit the box about 15 years ago and it's still going strong. It is a 3 tooth sector with no power steering so it has some load on it, does not leak a drop