It's never boiled any water out, 13 lb cap.

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

Because turning on the heater helps in reducing the engine temperature, the radiator itself is highly suspect.  I’ll also suggest putting a timing light to the engine and insuring that both distributor advance curves (mechanical and vacuum) are working properly.  Boiling any water out?

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Did you ever see copper or brass that has been exposed to moisture for a period of time?  It gets a coating of green corrosion that is very tough.  If the insides of radiator tubes get this coating, water may still flow through them fine, but the corrosion acts as an insulator and prevents proper heat transfer from the water to the air.  You may be in for a recore of the radiator.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I have a 58 dizzy with pertronix. The car starts right off, it excelerates quickly and it runs great at any speed so I would think everything is adjusted ok. The only thing when it reads hot is when I have to stop, I have to keep my foot on the gas or it chugs bad, once I take off it's a sweet y-block again.....and thats only when it's hot. I just think with the heater dropping it 15 degrees their must be something little missing. As far as the radiator, it doesn't look like its ever been repaired. Gary

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

Are your brakes properly adjusted?

BOO- YA!!!

If it’s not losing water, then it may not be overheating.  Up to 210°F isn’t a show stopper and the engines are actually more efficient at the warmer temperatures as long as coolant loss is not a problem.  Engine wear is also reduced at the warmer temperatures.

What distributor?  Is the curve working properly?  The timing being too far retarded with the engine running at speed will also cause the engine to run on the warm side.  A properly working vacuum advance on any of the distributors will also help to keep engine temperatures down.

Installing a restrictor in the coolant bypass hose could possibly help.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

What I mean about the radiator is one way they "fix" leaks in the core is to completely block off a tube. When that is done, the ability of the radiator to cool the engine is diminished. Even with some of the tubes blocked, it can still flow enough water through but it will not be able to cool as efficiently.



Did it cool well before the build?


Lawrenceville, GA

Tested the radiator flow at the radiator shop, water came out as fast as it went in, guy says it in excellent shape. Heat riser is gone. Rv cam, large valves in 272 heads, pertronix, 465 holley, FOM, dual exhaust. Possibly the pump is just old and not moving enough water. 

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

Is your heat riser opening all the way? That'll retain a lot of heat at highway speed, if not...

BOO- YA!!!

Any mods that might make the stock cooling system inadequate?

If it's getting hot while on the interstate, that's when the air flow across the core should be pretty high, then I don't think a different fan will help at all.

Have there been any repairs to the radiator in order to stop a leak?

Is the radiator unobstructed?



The #6 stat should be 170 deg, right?



Lawrenceville, GA