Well, no wonder we haven't see much of you lately (just kidding).  I bet Kathy is thinking the same thing!  It will all come together nicely and things will get back to normal soon.  Congratulations, great job, you guys have come up with an awesome plan and now you're working that plan. 

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)







BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

Just so you al know these are the guidlines I have to fallow, the fact that I will have a N/A, 322ci, 3x2 94s and flat top piston Y in it is so I can compete at the Eagle Field Drags but in the future I can go any Y direction I feel like.  I just have to pull and swap.

COOL GAS DRAGSTER (C/GD) RULES
These rules are written to build a race car to compete in the ANRA Open Wheel Category and an Eagle Field heads up category. They are only guidelines to build an affordable Dragster which could be built by any competent Do It Yourselfer with inexpensive parts found at wrecking yards and garages.
THESE ARE GUIDELINES AND WRITTEN USING THE 2008 NHRA RULE BOOK
FOR CARS 10:00 AND SLOWER
Please check current NHRA rule book when building a car
1. Frames allowed are 3 x 2 by .118 wall (or larger) rectangular tube, 3 round tube or "Open Space" with both Slingshot and Altered style chassis allowed. . Chromemoly materials allowed Minimum wheelbase of 90" SEE NHRA 4:12 , Maximum 150 C/GD rule. Minimum weight will be decided as class progresses. REMEMBER that ANRA races is at an NHRA track and NHRA rules apply.
2. Front suspension optional on cars weighing 2350 lbs or less with 100 inch or longer wheelbase. SEE NHRA ET Handicap racing, Super Pro, Pro, Sportsman, Suspension, Altereds, Dragsters Also SEE NHRA 3:2, 3:4
3. All cars must have a (5 point min at ANRA events, 3 point and some nostalgia designs allowed at Eagle Field) roll cage of minimum NHRA Tubing requirements. SEE NHRA 4:11
4. Narrowed rear ends allowed and aftermarket axles required on cars running quicker than 10.99 and all cars with spool. Rear end must be equipped with an anti rotation device SEE NHRA 2:11, 2:2, 2:4, 4:9 Brakes 3:1. Drum or Disc Brakes allowed.
5. A minimum of .120 Steel plate u-joint cover to protect driver in case of failure.
6. Cars must have cowl/body and floor boards, belly pan sufficient to prevent drivers legs from exiting vehicle unintentionally Minimum .032 Aluminum or .024 Steel. SEE NHRA 7:5 Sub flooring independent of car body is mandatory in Dragsters that allow drivers legs to rest on Belly Pan or Chassis. SEE NHRA ET Handicap Racing A minimum .032 Aluminum or .024 Steel firewall is mandatory. SEE NHRA 7:4 Windscreen 7:7
7. Cars must be equipped with an engine mounted starter and be self starting at NHRA tracks. Eagle Field will allow Vintage engines to use remote batteries.
8. Batteries must be securely mounted using modern safety standards and separate from drivers compartment. SEE NHRA 8:1
9. Cars must have a master battery cutoff switch accessible from rear of the car. SEE NHRA 8:4
10. Cars must have at least one red rear running light for night racing.
11. Manual and 3 speed Automatic transmissions (NO 2 Speeds) allowed. SFI certified clutch, flywheel and bell housing required on cars quicker than 11.50. SEE NHRA 2:3 2:5 2:6 2:10 Eagle Field C/GD are require to have an SFI Certified Clutch assy and Flywheel. Scattershield are required, if a scattershield is not available for you engine one can be fabricated as per NHRA Rules. Automatic equipped cars require a shifter with reverse lockout and neutral safety switch, cars must be manually shifted, no air or electronic shifters allowed. Transmission lines must be metallic or NHRA accepted high pressure type hose. Cars running quicker than 10.99 or faster than 135 MPH must be equipped with a transmission shield meeting SFI Spec 4.1. Trans brakes not allowed Torque Converters may not stall over 3500 RPM. Floorboard required unless trans shield and 3.2A/15 driving suit are used.
12. American made small block V-8 or 6 cylinder (325 cid or smaller) engine only, no overhead cams allowed. Engines must be naturally aspirated. No superchargers, turbos, nitrous oxide or fuel injection. Stocks cylinder heads only, NO Canted valve (example Ford Boss 302) or Angle Plug small block Chevy. OEM dimension valve springs only, "Roller" rockers not allowed, stock rocker arms only. Aluminum heads are ONLY allowed on Flat Head Fords and OE equipped engines. Pistons are restricted to Flat Top or less design, NO KICKER or POP-UP. Camshaft must use hydraulic lifters, unless engine is considered "Vintage" (Ford Flat Head, Ford Y-block, Buick Nail Head etc) otherwise NO solid or hydraulic roller cams allowed. No Dry sumps, external oil pumps (except when OE equipped", Pan Evacuation systems other than PCV.
18. Zoomie headers only
13. No electronic ignition boxes (MSD etc), Only single and dual point distributors allowed. Conversions in the manner of Petronix that fit within a stock dist cap are allowed. Aftermarket magnetos ONLY allowed on Vintage engines.
14. Pump gas/racing gas only. No Methanol, nitromethane, or alcohol.
15. One Holley #1850 or Edelbrock Performer 1405 or 1406 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb allowed. 3 Multiple (4 allowed on Ford Flat Head and other "Vintage engines") 1bbl or 2bbl Carter, Stromberg, or Holley 94 carbs allowed. Aluminum intakes allowed (no tunnel ram type manifolds) Flash Shield or Scoop Required SEE NHRA 1:4
16. Fuel lines shall have no more than 12" total of rubber line. SEE NHRA 1:5
17. Cooling system or water tank must use a radiator cap and overflow/catch can system. SEE NHRA 1:7 NOTE: Most tracks require a cooling system and do not allow tow cars. ANRA and Eagle Field DOES NOT require a cooling system and allows tow cars in the Open Wheel category.
19 Slicks may be NO wider than 9"
20. Drivers must wear up to date NHRA acceptable full face helmet with shield (Snell M2000, M2005, K2005, SA2005, SFI 31.2A or 41.2 SEE NHRA 10:7 & ET Handicap Racing). SFI 3:3 Neck Collar or SFI 3:3 Head Sock or Skirted Helmet Required. SEE NHRA 10:8 3.2A/5 two layer fire retardant jacket & pants or suit required when transmission is covered with a floorboard, SFI 3:3 Gloves required on all open bodied cars. SEE NHRA 10:10 Leather Driving shoes 3:3A/5 & Arm Restraints required SEE NHRA 10:3
21. Five point NHRA approved safety harness required. SEE NHRA 10:5
22. No electronic/pneumatic drivers aids including rev limiters.
Shift light Tachometers are allowed
22. Cars are required to be Self Starting at NHRA tracks
Revisions made,
Chromemoly materials allowed
Minimum weight will be decided as class progresses.
Drum or Disc Brakes allowed
All cars must have a (5 point min at ANRA events, 3 point and some nostalgia designs allowed at Eagle Field) roll cage of minimum NHRA Tubing requirements. SEE NHRA 4:11
Name change, C/GD Cool / Gas dragster
NO canted Valve heads like the Boss 302 Ford
Magnetos allowed on Vintage engines
Only single and dual point distributors allowed. Conversions in the manner of Petronix that fit within a stock dist cap are allowed.
Solid Lifter allowed on vintage engines
Eagle Field will allow Vintage engines to use remote batteries.
Aluminum heads are ONLY allowed on Flat Head Fords and engine OE equipped
Eagle Field C/GD are require to have an SFI Certified Clutch assy and Flywheel. Scattershield are required, if a scattershield is not available for you engine one can be fabricated as per NHRA Rules.
External oil pumps allowed when originally equipped
3 Speed Automatic Transmissions ONLY No Powerglides
 

And here are a couple more photos of last nights progress.  I also got my axel from Mark Williams yesterday.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Tim, Just curious. Is there any reason giving that a Power Glide cannot be used?? After al, they did come stock in some vintage cars? (like it or not).



Also with the engine plate, how are you spacing out the flexplate/converter? The Flat-o adaptor already has ~3/4" spacers. And is the bell safety rated?



And lastly, can you use a reverse pattern valve body with a trans brake in the C-4?



Sorry about all the questions but I have a C-4 in my '55 and your FED looks like and interesting project.

BOB

The reason given for no Powerglides was that it had a clear advantage  over the three speeds and would be costly to adapt for those of us that they didn't come stock.  It seems like a silly rule and others have complained but I don't mind since the C-4 is easier for me.  The bell is not SFI rated but we will make a shield and also a 1/4" spacer for the flexplate, which by the way is a nice heavy piece.  On the valve body you lost me, I'm not an auto trans guy and I have a competent performance trans builder doing mine with a manual valve body is all I know.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Do ask your tranny guy about the transbrake soon - it is a major starting line advantage as opposed to the old brakes and lineloc arrangement. 

Do the dizzy rules forbid the factory electronic ignitions? Like a GM HEI, Ford Duraspark II or the Mopar equivalent? If they don't want CD boxes that's one thing - but are the electronically switched inductor systems banned too? Sounds like they are OK with Pertronix - is it just that they have to fit under the cap?   

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I doubt that the rules will allow a trans brake, but by all means go with the reverse shift pattern manual valve body. With a ratchet type shifter and that bad boy pushing you back in the seat, it will be much easier to pull the shifter than push it forward. One other thing, after talking to Harry Hutton at Columbus this year, I found out that he was having problems breaking the torque converter studs. He is using the Flat O Matic bell housing like I have. His cure for the problem was to machine an alum (for like of a better word) stud girdle or spacer that fits over the studs and is wedged between the converter and flexplate. I think he made the same spacer for Bob Martins Merc. I still don't have a warm and fuzzy about using the Flat O Matic flexplate. If I didn't have it already, I would most likely get the PA FE bellhousing and have someone machine an adapter for it like Ted has. I think he told me that he is using a SFI flexplate for a 429/460 with it.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

The reverse shift pattern makes good sense to me and I will ask him about it and no trans brake, that I do know.  On the ignition, no external boxes only electronic that fits under the cap. (Petronix) 

Glen, are there any pictures or diagrams of this "Stud girdle" ?  This is a good thing to know now since we will be making a spacer for the flexplate soon, something like you described may also need to be fabricated.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Check with Ted Eaton on the stud girdle. He may have one for a boat pan lurking around. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I believe the stud girdle being talked about is for the flywheel and encapsulates the converter bolts.  I had something similar on my FE powered Thunderbolt but it was there as an inertia ring.  I had to take it off as the car was yanking the front wheels off the ground when launching.  This was great for the photographers but not good on reaction time consistency.  But if it’s needed to strengthen up the area around the converter studs, then by all means don’t let my wheel standing experiences stop from using one.  Sounds like an easy fix for that problem.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Tim, I don't have a picture or drawing. Harry said that he started with a 1" thick slab of 12" billet alum, he drilled 4 holes that was a snug fit over the converter stud adapters that come with the kit. The converter side must be concave milled to fit the contour of the converter. Of course the center is cut out to clear the snout of the converter, Harry said the final product ends up being just under an inch thick in his case. This will have to be made for the specific converter that you are using as each mfg's converters have different profiles. Hope this is clear as muddy water, if not maybe John or Frank can tell you how to contact Harry so he can explain it a little better.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL