McMaster's Machine

McMaster's Machyne

Malefactor

wYcked wYtch!

wYdow maYker

Scrub Scalder

just a few...  

                       That would work!

Tim, my wife says I can't read your responses any more, I think she means I can't look at them. I told her I just read the words! : Didn't fly.   the scoots are very cool........!

Do the dizzy rules forbid the factory electronic ignitions? Like a GM HEI, Ford Duraspark II or the Mopar equivalent? If they don't want CD boxes that's one thing - but are the electronically switched inductor systems banned too? Sounds like they are OK with Pertronix - is it just that they have to fit under the cap?   

Good luck for first race!!

More: http://www.rexrods.com/

The drum brakes will hold the car at the starting line better than disk, and if fitted to the drum for full contact, will stop it just fine. We ran a car like yours before everybody started using transbrakes and with disk you could not bring the RPM's up without the car creeping out of the stage beams. Good looking car.

It was very cool watching the car from start of finish, I think you will be hooked once you make a few passes with it.

     You must have some pretty cool neighbors.

I am with Ted on his theory, also you might try backing up and do a short dry launch. This will let you know if the tires are dry and if you have it in the right gear. Establish a routine for you burn outs and try to do it every time you run the car. If something is wrong (tires wet, track oily) you might pick up on it at that point and you can make adjustments. Seat time helps alot. Hope my remblings help is some way. Great Job on showing the competition you are getting faster.

Is this still a 4 inch bore, or a different combination?  your neighbor has a nice truck, Looks familiar.

  When you need to put the FED in the garage you must shuffle cars like a parking lot attendant!

Keep on going and send more pics. Are you going to Tig weld or Mig weld your frame?

And that Strange steering gear... what was the price for that and where did you get it? We tried to get Strange too, but with no luck...

We have plenty of snow so come and get it .

http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showthread.php/421-Ladies-posing-with-cars-..-Can-we-if-we-don-t-get-OVERBOARD/page781   

uuuhh... lotsa pics .

Aatu, 7 years, flies...

Old Aprilia 50cc

Newer Suzuki RM 65cc

Roope, 4 years, flies too...

Old Yamaha PW 50cc

Newer TM racing 50cc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQ5NgRi0Cec

Is it common at your area to have "drunk starts and revving" at weekends and silent nights?

Aaah... good friends hanging with you, couple of beers and suddenly someone asks you. "Hey, how about starting up that thing and let's hear how it sings?" And then some 7000+ rpms... .

Or is it cam grinders fault? How much spring load are you using?

FlatterY

+ Now you can have a bath every evening after days work is done...

Keep going, may is just around the corner .

Here is our cockpit. (wonder where that name comes...) Arrow on the right means "Speed Up" and arrow at the left means "Slow Down" . Just to make things easy to remember at 990 feet....

What will be your choice of gears in your rearend? We will be using 4.56 with our PG.

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/990/Suits/post/1855409/Simpson-new-SFI-3-2A-20-fire-suit-complete.html

what is the deal on your sleeves? Looks like I cannot see them in the other photo of the block...and is that a fabbed up oil pan or what?

jessup

Maybe now would be the time we could get a couple of blogs going on the Y blocks site. Jim and Ted could chime in here, if they like, but I have always thought it would be good to have separate pages for viewing where fellas that are working on a particular build/project could show off what they are doing, how they got it done, etc. Sort of an ongoing idea. It would really help when Ted gets going with all of his test runs, he would have a good place to put all of that information up on the site.

Once this snow breaks (my road was just plowed of another 14" tonight - we AIN'T used to this I tell ya) I have got to get going on my VS57 blown build for the display stand!

coming along nicely!

I just like the name I chose - McMaster's Mayhem!

McMaster's Machine

McMaster's Machyne

Malefactor

wYcked wYtch

wYdow maYker

Scrub Scalder

just a few...

there you go, the wYcked wYtch of the west!!!

You can be the Wyzard of Oz and paint the sheet metal rubY red!

Anyway, that Y sounds SCHWEEEEEEEET!! I can't wait to get my blower mounted. I did finish my teapot carb, got some of the plumbing I need, but I have to pull the old cam and put in a blower cam with new lifters - I do want it to sound right and FEEL right. These old Y's thump pretty good with the open exhaust.

Should have seen my 7 year old son, Ethan, the other day. He helped me haul the cars and parts to the garage. He got to looking at the 55 convertible again and his exact words were, "Hey dad, ya know what, this convertible don't look all that bad..."

Boy's a chip off the old block! Y block that is!

Got to be exciting to get that FED operational ... We all can't wait!

That baby will definitely fly once you get Elwood dialed in. Thanks for the great video, and keep up the good work.

I was just wondering how you were getting the 3.2" stroke, going up with a 239 or down with a 272/292 crank.

The 2.10 stroke with I6 223 pistons at 3.62 bore in a 272 (correct wrist pin height to get near zero deck) is supposed to make a great screamer for circle track.

On another note, showed some people your 58 burnouts today, and I scored a nice 58 long bed, big window the other day, original Black paint, radio, 223. The bed looks like it has never hauled anything, still the original black paint and not even a dent on the fender wells, the only rust on the truck was front lower fenders and it came with new patch panels in the bed for them. a 58 truck shop manual, 4 new tires, an unbelievable deal.

Now I have to update my profile, there wouldn't be enough room if I listed everything I have so I only list the Y's with this one exception.

Made a video of the truck yesterday, but tried to upload it last night to youtube and it said it was going to take 20hrs, let it run all night and when I woke up this morning the battery had died in my camera so the vid did not go through.

Don't know when next time I will get a chance to try to upload it will be, and I don't know why it takes so long, the videos of the 301 running I had to upload for near 10 hrs and they are only short videos. I must be doing something wrong, should they take that long?

Want to by a snowmobile Ted? plenty of good deals here.

I think with all the Ys coming back, when they take off they are turning the globe under them so the earth is not positioned as it was a few years ago creating all this weird weather.

bloodyknucklehill (2/13/2010)

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lokkin good tim!! have you named your dragster yet?

Dustin, looks like you might start something here????

mctim64 (2/14/2010)

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bloodyknucklehill (2/13/2010)

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lokkin good tim!! have you named your dragster yet?

I haven't thought of naming it.  Any suggestions?

The "mctimomobile!". Tim, great progress and design, wish you all the best and success with this adventure but not sure of the twin triumph herald engines in it? ha,ha, regards bill.

Chuck, good call! i thought that also. bill.

Chuck, the "ALASKAN" sounds good but not keen on that big body sitting on those small rails?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eGgvzyHn88

Tim, looking very proffessional and having fun, watching you build it then race it in very short time enjoying yourself, well done. Merry Xmas to all.

Oh! ok, i see now, i,ve allways felt uneasy with the deck not securley attached to the block core after the 4" job, i know years back they spoke of furnace brazing but nowadays seems hard to do or get done. I like you have filled the block for support but theres not much holding the deck and studs in place. Hope the new gaskets will help, looks like jerry c is ontrack to good times once he gets the new car settled in. good luck, regards bill.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ted, thanks for the update , i guess i know what to expect and think going back to original block is rational decision, how did you go at columbus? thank you, regards bill.

mctim64 (10/6/2010)

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This should be the cure for the 322ci with the 4" bore. I will still be running the 338ci Y this weekend but the intended motor will go back in soon.

 

bla bla bla

Hi tim, what would a set of those 4" copper gaskets run out at $. Thinking i might have to go that way. thanks. regards bill.

Ok tim, thanks for reply, i,ll watch your progress, good luck and godspeed!

Hollow Head (10/24/2010)

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Wow! Good work again Tim. Did you mark your pants at that first lift?

Hollowheads, glad to hear from you, been wondering what you,ve all been up to, has the snow cleared and you,re ready to release some interesting y block developments?????

mctim64 (4/3/2010)

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Here it is on the ground, still have some more work to do but I can see a light.

Tim, you and your buddy sure have made some efficent progress and must say, it, s a sharp looking profile, even at this stage. Enjoy watching your progress! best regards bill.

mctim64 (4/28/2010)

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Hollow Head (4/28/2010)

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One more for the name game Tim, have you decided yet?

FlatterY

I was thinking of going with Elwood.

Why tim, are you putting the band back together??

Charlie, good to hear you,re up and,about! I think it might mean; up you! to the scrub brigade.

Tim, i.m curious what effect did that crack have with the block being filled? i,m assuming the headgasket firerings bite down hard to seal, could you just fill that crack with metal filler and dress flat? i have had 4"er here for years on stand, not run yet but your problem has me concerned. As you know theres not much deck integrity left when doing 4" bore.

            2 "long" shoes on each wheel, of his Gran National, to help hold it when

           building "boost".....

                                Secondly, do I remember a "Yellow Brick" taking a tour

           of the sand trap, at Columbus, a while back!!!!

                                          Keep at it Tim, Looks great.......

                                                   Bill

              Historic venture.(with sound!!!)

              Good luck Tim, and I'm guessing a 11.40 et before the day's over.

              Charlie needs to chime in and give us the exact figure!!!!! He has

              a way of putting all the numbers together. Anyone else? (Maybe

              we could put a small wager on this and give the "pot" to Tim

              to get him a little "traveling $$" for Columbus)

                                The harder you work,the luckier you get...

                                               Bill

you're gettin' famous-er and famous-er!!

Mark

Ol'ford nut (3/23/2010)

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Hollow Head (3/20/2010)

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Y Hauler is my choice for the name. Simple and descriptive

I vote for "Y ask Y" or "Y Not"

"Y Not" is pretty good but my vote today goes to "Y Hauler"

You are correct, I like the numbers thing.............must be the math teacher in me.  But, sorry, this is an 1/8th mile flag drop start (no Christmas tree) and no timing lights.  Judges at the finish determine the round winners.  This is truly nostalgic drag racing.  (I'll have a number for it's first trip to Bakersfield)  I'm sure this trip will help work out any bugs that may exist.  I will also take lots of video.

I'm sure it wasn't intentional, but that water filler sure looks menacing, or is it intended to scare off all the scrubs?

Your life is pedal to the metal and your test and tune was no different.  Congrats on a very successful first run.  That was a lot of fun last night.

Looks and sounds great.  Glad to see you got the intake.  When are we going to Bakersfield?

I just received my copy of the Ford-Freaks Magazine and you did a great job on the layout of Tim's FED.  I liked your articles of the Battlebird #98 and L. W. Farrington's 56 T-Bird (I looked at the pictures).  I have done some of my own research on the speeds by the Battlebird and I was wondering if you came across any speed information for your article.  I saw some numbers, but I couldn't understand what they stood for.  Any information?

Anyway here is a look at what's going on and there will be more to come.  The work is proceeding nicely now and I hope to have a running car for the May 22nd meet, well we'll see.

The block in the frame is just an old rotten 312 out of a boat, which is where I got the pan and front cover, the sleeved block is the one that I will be using.  I sleeved the whole block so I could go with a 4.0" bore, I want a big bore and a short stroke so I can wind it up tight.   4.0" x 3.2"  322ci.  I have also filled the block to keep it all stiff and will be cooling the heads only.  For the heads I have a set of posted "G's" and I will run flat top pistons,  I have the ability to go with pop-ups but for now just flat tops. (Eagle Field limits )

This is Johns car (the guy who is helping me with the chassis) it is powered by a 510ci Chrysler, he also has a dislike of the scrub product. as noted on the locker in his shop.

Hollow Head (2/11/2010)

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Wow Tim! You really have but your energy moving! May feels so close, but I hope you get there in time. Your project is now 5% done . And how thick is your engine plate?  I think half of that would have been enough, or is that your adapter plate

Keep on going and send more pics. Are you going to Tig weld or Mig weld your frame?

And that Strange steering gear... what was the price for that and where did you get it? We tried to get Strange too, but with no luck...

5%?  I was thinking more like 7%.   The motor plate you see is 1/2" and was for adapting the Powerglide, we have since started a new one made of 1/4" material.  I think that is close to half.   we are TIG welding and the box came from S&W, the cost? well it was a lot.

$500

COOL GAS DRAGSTER (C/GD) RULES
These rules are written to build a race car to compete in the ANRA Open Wheel Category and an Eagle Field heads up category. They are only guidelines to build an affordable Dragster which could be built by any competent Do It Yourselfer with inexpensive parts found at wrecking yards and garages.
THESE ARE GUIDELINES AND WRITTEN USING THE 2008 NHRA RULE BOOK
FOR CARS 10:00 AND SLOWER
Please check current NHRA rule book when building a car
1. Frames allowed are 3 x 2 by .118 wall (or larger) rectangular tube, 3 round tube or "Open Space" with both Slingshot and Altered style chassis allowed. . Chromemoly materials allowed Minimum wheelbase of 90" SEE NHRA 4:12 , Maximum 150 C/GD rule. Minimum weight will be decided as class progresses. REMEMBER that ANRA races is at an NHRA track and NHRA rules apply.
2. Front suspension optional on cars weighing 2350 lbs or less with 100 inch or longer wheelbase. SEE NHRA ET Handicap racing, Super Pro, Pro, Sportsman, Suspension, Altereds, Dragsters Also SEE NHRA 3:2, 3:4
3. All cars must have a (5 point min at ANRA events, 3 point and some nostalgia designs allowed at Eagle Field) roll cage of minimum NHRA Tubing requirements. SEE NHRA 4:11
4. Narrowed rear ends allowed and aftermarket axles required on cars running quicker than 10.99 and all cars with spool. Rear end must be equipped with an anti rotation device SEE NHRA 2:11, 2:2, 2:4, 4:9 Brakes 3:1. Drum or Disc Brakes allowed.
5. A minimum of .120 Steel plate u-joint cover to protect driver in case of failure.
6. Cars must have cowl/body and floor boards, belly pan sufficient to prevent drivers legs from exiting vehicle unintentionally Minimum .032 Aluminum or .024 Steel. SEE NHRA 7:5 Sub flooring independent of car body is mandatory in Dragsters that allow drivers legs to rest on Belly Pan or Chassis. SEE NHRA ET Handicap Racing A minimum .032 Aluminum or .024 Steel firewall is mandatory. SEE NHRA 7:4 Windscreen 7:7
7. Cars must be equipped with an engine mounted starter and be self starting at NHRA tracks. Eagle Field will allow Vintage engines to use remote batteries.
8. Batteries must be securely mounted using modern safety standards and separate from drivers compartment. SEE NHRA 8:1
9. Cars must have a master battery cutoff switch accessible from rear of the car. SEE NHRA 8:4
10. Cars must have at least one red rear running light for night racing.
11. Manual and 3 speed Automatic transmissions (NO 2 Speeds) allowed. SFI certified clutch, flywheel and bell housing required on cars quicker than 11.50. SEE NHRA 2:3 2:5 2:6 2:10 Eagle Field C/GD are require to have an SFI Certified Clutch assy and Flywheel. Scattershield are required, if a scattershield is not available for you engine one can be fabricated as per NHRA Rules. Automatic equipped cars require a shifter with reverse lockout and neutral safety switch, cars must be manually shifted, no air or electronic shifters allowed. Transmission lines must be metallic or NHRA accepted high pressure type hose. Cars running quicker than 10.99 or faster than 135 MPH must be equipped with a transmission shield meeting SFI Spec 4.1. Trans brakes not allowed Torque Converters may not stall over 3500 RPM. Floorboard required unless trans shield and 3.2A/15 driving suit are used.
12. American made small block V-8 or 6 cylinder (325 cid or smaller) engine only, no overhead cams allowed. Engines must be naturally aspirated. No superchargers, turbos, nitrous oxide or fuel injection. Stocks cylinder heads only, NO Canted valve (example Ford Boss 302) or Angle Plug small block Chevy. OEM dimension valve springs only, "Roller" rockers not allowed, stock rocker arms only. Aluminum heads are ONLY allowed on Flat Head Fords and OE equipped engines. Pistons are restricted to Flat Top or less design, NO KICKER or POP-UP. Camshaft must use hydraulic lifters, unless engine is considered "Vintage" (Ford Flat Head, Ford Y-block, Buick Nail Head etc) otherwise NO solid or hydraulic roller cams allowed. No Dry sumps, external oil pumps (except when OE equipped", Pan Evacuation systems other than PCV.
18. Zoomie headers only
13. No electronic ignition boxes (MSD etc), Only single and dual point distributors allowed. Conversions in the manner of Petronix that fit within a stock dist cap are allowed. Aftermarket magnetos ONLY allowed on Vintage engines.
14. Pump gas/racing gas only. No Methanol, nitromethane, or alcohol.
15. One Holley #1850 or Edelbrock Performer 1405 or 1406 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb allowed. 3 Multiple (4 allowed on Ford Flat Head and other "Vintage engines") 1bbl or 2bbl Carter, Stromberg, or Holley 94 carbs allowed. Aluminum intakes allowed (no tunnel ram type manifolds) Flash Shield or Scoop Required SEE NHRA 1:4
16. Fuel lines shall have no more than 12" total of rubber line. SEE NHRA 1:5
17. Cooling system or water tank must use a radiator cap and overflow/catch can system. SEE NHRA 1:7 NOTE: Most tracks require a cooling system and do not allow tow cars. ANRA and Eagle Field DOES NOT require a cooling system and allows tow cars in the Open Wheel category.
19 Slicks may be NO wider than 9"
20. Drivers must wear up to date NHRA acceptable full face helmet with shield (Snell M2000, M2005, K2005, SA2005, SFI 31.2A or 41.2 SEE NHRA 10:7 & ET Handicap Racing). SFI 3:3 Neck Collar or SFI 3:3 Head Sock or Skirted Helmet Required. SEE NHRA 10:8 3.2A/5 two layer fire retardant jacket & pants or suit required when transmission is covered with a floorboard, SFI 3:3 Gloves required on all open bodied cars. SEE NHRA 10:10 Leather Driving shoes 3:3A/5 & Arm Restraints required SEE NHRA 10:3
21. Five point NHRA approved safety harness required. SEE NHRA 10:5
22. No electronic/pneumatic drivers aids including rev limiters.
Shift light Tachometers are allowed
22. Cars are required to be Self Starting at NHRA tracks
Revisions made,
Chromemoly materials allowed
Minimum weight will be decided as class progresses.
Drum or Disc Brakes allowed
All cars must have a (5 point min at ANRA events, 3 point and some nostalgia designs allowed at Eagle Field) roll cage of minimum NHRA Tubing requirements. SEE NHRA 4:11
Name change, C/GD Cool / Gas dragster
NO canted Valve heads like the Boss 302 Ford
Magnetos allowed on Vintage engines
Only single and dual point distributors allowed. Conversions in the manner of Petronix that fit within a stock dist cap are allowed.
Solid Lifter allowed on vintage engines
Eagle Field will allow Vintage engines to use remote batteries.
Aluminum heads are ONLY allowed on Flat Head Fords and engine OE equipped
Eagle Field C/GD are require to have an SFI Certified Clutch assy and Flywheel. Scattershield are required, if a scattershield is not available for you engine one can be fabricated as per NHRA Rules.
External oil pumps allowed when originally equipped
3 Speed Automatic Transmissions ONLY No Powerglides
 

And here are a couple more photos of last nights progress.  I also got my axel from Mark Williams yesterday.

Thinking of going with 7/16" studs and a "Beefier" spacer to prevent this from happening again.

blah bla bl b

bla bla bla

I have to shuffle and use more than one garage.  These two are at my Nephews house.

Y-Block powered F-350 to haul the camper of course.

Took Elwood out for a little run at the ranch to make sure everything was working and shifting proper.  Also tried a little trick that was suggested to me, swab the inside of the new chrome zoomies with greese to keep them from bluing.  Seems to be working so far.  We'll see how they look after a couple hard runs at Irwindale next weekend.

After

bla bla bla

Master, are you gonna be coming out to Mooneyes?

Got some shiney goodies for Elwood yesterday, should look nice at Mooneye's in a couple of weeks.

blah blah and blah once again

I have a feeling you have hit the nail on the head!

bla bla

I made it.  Couldn't find one anywhere.

Just changed the 4 bbl out for the 3x2s, Eagle Field is this coming weekend and it just looks better for that event.

If anyone is near central California on the 6th try and make it.  It's always a good time!

http://eaglefielddrags.com/October_2012_Preview.html

bla bla la

Hollow Head (10/1/2012)

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Keepthe sparks flyin' this time and remeber to double check everyting .

Valves are adjusted right this time.

Hollow Head (4/10/2012)

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Job well done again Tim! Did you have a helmet cam? Would be nice see your wheelies from the cockpit side too... .

I will take the camera but I still don't have the best mount, we'll see just how steady it rides.

bla bla

Saturday I dedicated to changing out the 338ci Y that will go into my Model A Tudor for the 350ci Y that I hope will take Elwood into the "9s".
I tried to post this yesterday but the site was messed up on my end.

It's more than just a "swap out" as I have to change heads to use the front to back cooling and I also have to change the timing cover and I have a nice new oil pan with a windage tray and scraper.

While swaping these parts over I found something that makes a guy rather upset. I had a cam lobe failing. This is especially bad beacause I did everything correct on the break-in including light springs in the heads. The one lobe is down only .030 and it probably would have worked for a few passes but I know it wasn't going to get any better. So I had another cam that I had ground for the dragster engine anyway (the one that is shown was ment for Jake and LSR) so I changed it out. Even with the engine out it's no small job to change the cam and lifters in a Y but it will be worth it.

I'm also going for a gear change so I need to do it be for the engine/trans goes back in. I hope to get it all buttoned up today. Happy Easter!

bla bla bla

OK! I work/played all afternoon and got the car ready to go back together. Most all the parts are on the engine and the trans is coupled back up. I didn't take a picture of them together though.


I did have a new pan made to work with the marine timing cover, the marine pan was big and "clunky" the new one has a windage try and a scraper. Also it looks quite nice.

I also changed the gears to 4.11s from 4.33s, it always seemed to be out of breath by the end of the quarter. We'll see how it is now.

Messed up my paint a little too.


If I'm not too beat after work today I should be able to slip it all into the chassis. We'll see, Mondays always wear me out.

bla bla bla

bla bla bla

http://www.anra.com/

Back to the 322.

Gotta be legal for Eagle.

bla bla bla

312 crank offset ground to 1.850".  Using 6.250" "NASCAR" rods.  3.875" bore with TRW pistons ment for some other application.

That's what made the big difference.  YES!

I'll take any advice I can get and apply what I think is right for me.   The wet tire theory is what we came up with too, it's a learning process every time out, I just wish it wasn't so much time between runs.

You mean this one?

Guys name is Dick Sappington.  225 Slant six runs high 13s.

They do at Famoso on most Fridays, and I do plan on going, it's just that I promise Friday nights to Kathy and if I want to keep doing this I have to keep her happy.

MoonShadow (4/12/2011)

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I was wondering where your "crew" was. I noticed the scrub being pushed to the line as you sat there idling. EVERY dragster team needs the scantily clad, good looking, car pushers at the line!

All of the guys were busy that day, I almost canceled, but I drove down alone and Kathy came later. Besides, it takes more guys to keep a scrub going.   Next time I'll tell her to dress for the occasion.

Maybe something like this?

bla bla

Bla Bla Bla

 Yeah!  I'm still having a tough time living with that comment!

bla

Spent today working on Elwood, he now sports a Blue Thunder intake with a Mighty Demon four barrel carb. This should bring my top speeds up and hopfully my E.T.s down.

http://www.youtube.com/embed/1QrAhMb5IkI

The intake and carb will be on "Jake" eventually but I just want to see what it will do for Elwood.

March, I believe.

Thanks!  it was no easy task finding one.

Ran Elwood at Famoso twice this last Sat., niether run was what I would call the best but both times I raced the scrub powered FED that beat me at Eagle Field and this time in the 1/4 I beat him both runs.   First time out I took off in second gear, forgot to shift down after the burnout, road a real nice wheelie for about 60'.   The second time out I must have been daydreaming and didn't leave untill the light was green, although I checked the runout on the tires I still shot towards the tree but I still managed 10.67 @ 127mph.  More practice needed.

My first pass.    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZ79OhJ0S9M&feature=channel_video_title

My second pass    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9muteFkwQw8&feature=channel_video_title

Bla bla bla

Thanks, but what I really need is a sicker that says "It's a FORD damn it!" because everyone seems to think it is a chebbie with a bent dizzy.

Here's another video that my cousin put together from Famoso. It's a bit long but I think he did a real good job editing, shows the whole experience.   Also shows the better of my two runs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXeKOgFKk5k

blablabla

That's one of the Eagal Field guys running a fairly stock Slant Six with three SUs.  It's a good runner and a neat one to look at for all the home made stuff, very cool. His gas tank and water tank are both old Evenrude fuel tanks.

bla bla bla

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cOjUPQqvRI

Bell and flex plate is the C-4 kit from Mummert.  the torque converter is a 3500 rpm Hughes.

More: http://www.rexrods.com/[/quote]

I've talked with this guy before, I think he just wants to sell chassis.  I don't think this thing will ever see the track.  could be wong though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6TQfU9Pje0&feature=related

http://www.fonebro.com/camapp/suite3...nebrosuite.php

to be our guest and follow the "show", guests need to sign in as a customer using a first name only (no other info required), this broadcast is live and UNRECORDED, hope to see everyone Saturday. Rocky

copy and paste from email.

Here's the video of the first run, a better one is to come that my cousin took, but it needs to be edited. You can see me jump towards the tree.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbluBfNte7A

bla bla bla

Yes!  I think with the 322ci engine it would have reved a bit higher and had a higher top speed even with the 4.33s.  Next spring I will have it back in with a set of 4.11s and we will see how he runs.  I wish there was time to practice and keep fresh over the winter months, I will feel like I'm starting over when spring comes.   Oh well, I still think I will do better the next time out.

jepito, it weighs in at just over 1400lbs.  Most of it is engine and trans., I love the Y-Block but it is a bit heavy.

Hollow Head (10/24/2010)

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Wow! Good work again Tim. Did you mark your pants at that first lift?

There is more of a chance of that when I watch the video, didn't even think about it when it happened.  Although my adrenaline level was very high when I came to a stop.   I can tell you that I like what is going on in my head the whole time I'm out there.  This is some fun s#!+!!!

bla bla bla

Thanks!  Coming from you that means a lot.   Might be beginners luck since I red lighted the second run but we'll see next spring.

I am very aware of wet sleeves in farm equipment as that is what I work on every day.  I was half expecting something like this to happen and thought that the filler in the block would help keep the water in the heads.  The problem with the Y that your 427 wouldn't have is the way the combustion camber overlaps the deck and the gap between the cylinder.  When counterbores crack on the diesel engines I cut and install repair rings, on the bigger bore engines they also overlap eachother and inter lock.

Here's a little video of the process if you are interested. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elqzK8u-ido

By the way, I have one of those "swap meet" 427s that has been sleeved in all cylinders. got it for nothing, looks like crap, but I just can't part with it.

bla bla bla

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Although I am looking forward to the ANRA events at Famoso I will be in Tahoe that weekend with my wife for our anniversary, oh well next time.

1/16"

Maybe sleeving to 4" wasn't the best idea, ran great though.   Does Mr. Eaton have an idea how to avoid this if I do another block, the internals are still good I kinda hate to waste them.

Alky?  Maybe later, it's a gas class that I run it in right now but who knows what the future holds.

I'm sure the "integrity" was compromised in the sleeving and the heat is a factor, the Moroso block filler I used is supposed to expand at the same rate as the iron and weigh the same as water but that may or may not be the case.  Either way this motor is not completely dead yet.

pegleg (5/23/2010)

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You're now "hooked". Lifetime disease, no cure other than another pass! 

OH YOU KNOW IT!

For what it's worth some guy came up and said he timed me at 6:50 in the eighth, any formula to figure an approx. 1/4?  This was in another run than that of the video, I had much better launches in the next two.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04rd1RKVioA&feature=player_embedded

[YT]04rd1RKVioA[/YT]

That sounds pretty good!  I hope that one day I will get a timing slip from Bake town that has a high nine on it with this set up.

Thanks Ted!   That means a lot to me coming from you.   And thanks a gain for the head gaskets.

We will meet at Charlies around 7 and head up together, Another guy with a "Fridge" will be joining us too.

See if you can save a spot for about 4-5 pickups and will keep all the Fridge cabs together.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EevFJTGqbTY

I didn't even notice the lenght.  Ha!  That's pretty cool.

I'm not sure what the "smokey" stuff is I think it's just dust kicked up from the taxi way, there is a lot of farm land around.

bla bla bla

It had a "catch can" in the video, it just puked that much water.  Not a problem now with a little area for air above the water for expansion.  The fuel line is an old one and all I had at the time, if you look you'll see that the primary line is aluminum and it all will be as soon as I get my fuel log.

Actually this is just an artist rendition of what it will look like done by my friend Lance, the same guy who designed our t-shirts.

I found this one over on the H.A.M.B.  It is s'pose to be at Eagle Field also although I understand it wont be running.

bloodyknucklehill (5/10/2010)

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Looks awesome Tim.. Is that a pint of Newcastle I spy there?

Yep! What better way to celebrate!

aussiebill (4/28/2010)

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mctim64 (4/28/2010)

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Hollow Head (4/28/2010)

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One more for the name game Tim, have you decided yet?

FlatterY

I was thinking of going with Elwood.

Why tim, are you putting the band back together??

Cop motor, cop suspension, cop brakes built before 1974 so it'll run good on regular gas.

Kathy

Mika

Even Aunt Dorthy, she's '70 and you should see how quick she hopped in.

Charlie, I'd like to see the pix you took at your house.

Daniel, the name "Elwood" was thrown out there as a joke but it is kinda growing on me I don't think there is a law that says the name has to have Y in it, it might be a bit more subtle to leave it out and let people think.  I do get a kick out of the guys who can't figure out what engine that is.   As for paint, that work starts today.  Black frame, red body panels with black lettering outlined by white.  It will also carry the "Burns Bros. Racing" logo since I owe so much to Charlie for getting me back to thinking about racing, I like the name too.

Thanks Glen, that is what I wanted to hear.  I know the cage throws off the early look but I had to do it for cert. and it is good for my head too.

More pix to come, I may post some tonight on the painting.

Greg, thanks for the complement!  You're right, that is where the money went.

Kathy bringing me my reward for a hard days work.

Hollow Head (4/21/2010)

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Wow Tim! Exactly one month to go to May 22th... will it be enough? Hope you can make it . Do you have to get that chassis certified before going to the strip?

+ Now you can have a bath every evening after days work is done...

I'm sorry, I thought I posted this picture already.

Kathy working on the rust.   I got a good wife!

I can't take credit for the body work that was done by my friend John, but he'll take the complement.   The trailer has an adjustable axle, fore and aft, so I can put the engine and trans right over the axle but still have a little tongue weight.  I also painted it tonight, now it's black.

Bla bla bla

That's my second car I bought when I was 16, the first was a '60 F-100 ,  You'd be surprised how much leg room is in it, just hard to get in and out of.

This is me and the MG with Shasta in the back on our way back from the "86 Worlds Fair in Vancouver BC, made it there and back no problems who says British cars are unreliable.

Hollow Head (4/28/2010)

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One more for the name game Tim, have you decided yet?

FlatterY

I was thinking of going with Elwood.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0NvpedlXFk

Pro Comp  Bought on eBay for $99 + shipping. one of the cheeper parts I had to buy.  It was for a 460 Ford so we had to fab. the ends to fit, not too hard the spacing was just about right.

I kinda like that one.   Although it sorta sounds like "Rug muncher" which can start whole diferent sort of banter.

As a mater of fact I am going to paint it red with black tubing to match my pit bike.

Todays work has a roll cage on the car, we're getting closer!

It's amazing the amount of time it takes to cut, bend, notch, fit and weld these few pieces.

My friend who has the shop where we are building the car has this, use to be manual but he made it hydrolic.

I don't think it's as simple as it looks, like any machine you find the quirks in it after you use it a bit and compensate.  My friend does a nice job but has messed up a couple of bends on this project alone and he has been using the bender for 20 years or more.  it's all in how you hold your tongue.

Another thing, that's a lot of money to send to someone I don't know and for something sight unseen.  Texas is a long way from me too.

Also got some new $150 tires for my $100 trailer.

Yep!  it sure do.

That's the idea. I'm still waiting for my axles, when it is down on the ground I will be able to get measurements for where to put the pads for the rear wheels and the rails for the front.  Also I will put a piece of channel across the front to carry my pit bike or the Triumph and then paint the whole thing black.  The Dragster will be black frame with red body and chrome front end parts.  In my vision the whole package should look pretty cool behind the truck.

Daniel, I thought about the name you came up with for a while but if you read the definition in Webster's I think you'll understand why I'll have to pass on that one, something about "bodily injury" and "cripple or mutilate"   sounded good for a bit though, nice try.

The scrubs will be too!

I think I'm going with a foot brake, shifter on the high right side and a small switch panel over the top of the rearend.  None of this is going to be set permanent till I sit in the car and get a feel for what is comfortable and in my reach.

and now my engine.

It is a Vertex built and donated to Charlie and I by a guy named John Krag.  I was going in the "Brick" but it has now found a new home.

Hollow Head (3/8/2010)

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Tim, the engine looks like....NOSTALGIA . One thought, has it ever happened with Y that rockers slide off from push rod due those springs beeing there. In some high revving 4 cylinder race engines (Rallying ones) those springs have been replaced by aluminum tubes to keep rockers in right place.

 

I guess it is possable, but we have the same thing in Charlies engine and have not had a problem yet and it runs at 7000 on a regular basis.

Actually got the idea for this type of axle mount from pix of an old Tommy Ivo car.

Engine work today.  or should I say engine fun today, no work on Sunday.

thanks again to Ted for the head gaskets.

Hollow Head (3/2/2010)

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Long ARPs for main girdle?

Maybe someday, for now they are just long because I use FE studs and cut them down.

I use Sta-Lube moly graphite on the bearings and the cam, but I put Michigan assembly lube in the cylinders (STP works too ) followed buy a couple of squirts of motor oil on the rings before stabbing the pistons in.  The pistons are Kieth Black "Claimers" rings are Sealed Power cast.  I use cast rings on an engine like this so they will seat faster, also with this type of piston the top ring has been moved closer to the top so you need to file them for a larger end gap. (at least .004" per 1" of bore)  I like to give them about .020" gap as I have seen guys forget to do this and bust the top of the piston out when the ends come together.

It was a hard choice but I had better 272/292 cranks to choose from so I destroked one of those. I thought of just going with a 3.1" stroke but I just liked the 4.0" x 3.2"   combo and it gets me right up next to the 325ci limit.  I brought the block home today and will start assembly sometime next week, when it's all together I plan to run it on the stand with the "Zoomies" for a video and I will be sure to post it.

Can't wait to see pix of your new truck, sounds like a nice deal.

Do you have some?  I was going to take a set of old copper ones that I have and just cut them out for the job, but a set specifically made for the bore would be better.

Billy,  try what Charlie said.  I never upload from the camera, in fact I always edit my videos and make them into a file that is more WEB friendly (only takes 5min or so to upload a 2min video).  If you have Windows XP operating system check in your programs for Windows Movie Maker, it should be in there and make your video uploading easier.

Cutting the crank down, with the shorter stroke and lighter pistons this helped with the balancing.  Also put a bit of a "knife edge" on it like we did Charlies 258 in the "Yellow Brick".

Now with the frame rails set the motor-plate could be cut out.

Rear-end mounts in place.

bloodyknucklehill (2/23/2010)

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Looks like you fit like a glove in that thing It's funny that you mentioned the knife edgeing of the crank.. I was just out in my shop today staring at my crank and wondering if it would be worth the effort doing something like that.. seems like alot of ponies can be freed from a Y just by lightening up the rotating assembly in certain areas..

Be careful about taking weight away, I was able to do it because of the lighter pistons, rods and shorter stroke (my bob weight was about 250g lighter than a normal Y), if you are running stock internals you need the weights to keep it balanced so don't just start cutting away at them.

Glen, are there any pictures or diagrams of this "Stud girdle" ?  This is a good thing to know now since we will be making a spacer for the flexplate soon, something like you described may also need to be fabricated.

bloodyknucklehill (2/13/2010)

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lokkin good tim!! have you named your dragster yet?

I haven't thought of naming it.  Any suggestions?

Cannot wait to see that in May...just corious, how tight can you wind something like that with the big-bore, short stroke combo?

Did I mention bad-ass?

mctim64 (2/26/2010)

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Zoomies!  Of course.   Just ordered 4 U-bends and I already have the flanges.

AWESOME...

Can't wait to see it run! Sounds wicked!

mctim64 (4/22/2010)

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...The only comment from the inspector was how it would go faster with a BB scrub

If he means go faster in every direction when it blows up, he would be correct...next time you'll have to clarify just exactly what he meant...

Is that a little MG hatchback in the left stall there? I always loved those, back when I was just ...REDTODD, not so much now that I'm BIGREDTODD

Also to be considered one of your crew at the event...with my sought-after hose clamp skills (L to R Charlie, Todd, Rick, Tim, Curly, Moe, and Larry):

Even though my day ended like this when I lunched the Caddy in Earl on the way home...should be noted that the McMaster Y-block powered rigs made it to their destinations without similar issues...

Aouple other pictures as well...the "pit" area:

And a picture I like from the end of the day...

MoonShadow (5/23/2010)

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Great pictures! Maybe this is a good time to replace that Caddy with a "Timmy" motor Chuck in NH

Definitely another Cad, but hopefully I can get Tim involved

This was a junkyard mill that I was hoping to get a full summer out of...Now I have some "extra" time to put the Bird back together, and map out the plan for a spunky little 509" Cad that's been occupying my brain...

This event really is a great event, and Tim's FED was a huge hit...I highly recommend it to anyone who doesn't mind going home dirty and drinking beer while dodging dust devils and mini-bikes...

Justin sent me a picture that he took of us parting the crowd "cutting" into the staging area...I should really look into a good horn for next time

mctim64 (5/5/2010)

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Well guys I finished the car last night and here it is!

Just how many "rewards" did you have before you saw the cartoon animals??

In all seriousness (if I'm capable of that) the car looks awesome!

Can wait to see pass #1!

Are you guys heading to Eagle Field for breakfast? Dad and I will be there early, around 7ish if all goes well on my first long trip in Earl...

I'm going to try to grab a spot near the starting line...with an ice chest full of non-glass, non-alcoholic beverages

Good times!

         She's a Bloody Rippa Mate! Looks & Sounds Awesome, and is sure an inspiration I tell ya! It's an absolute credit to You, You've Every Right to be Proud, Congratulations Mate!

Also the removal of material on the the valve end of rocker not in contact with valve.

That gives me an idea for the name.. Scrub Muncher.. That's sure to start a little friendly (or non-friendly:w00t drag-strip banter

mctim64 (4/21/2010)

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Looks like an aluminum bath tub now.

Rub a dub dub, One Tim in a Tub

Pulling wheelies off the line...

And before he knew it, He was already through it,

And he had run a nine

The engine sounds like it should do the job, no problem. A white knucle ride the first time down the track 

Start to finish in 6 months sounds like a speed record to me no matter how fast the car goes.

Good luck on your next trip to the track.

I can't figure out by the picture where the tank and radiator are located. In fact this is the first time I can remember seeing a radiator. Doesn't the tank "usually" go up front between the axle and engine?

Hollow Head (3/20/2010)

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Y Hauler is my choice for the name. Simple and descriptive

I vote for "Y ask Y" or "Y Not"

It's good to know my money for the engine is being spent wisely!!  If you ever race it up here in North CA I would love to come see you race.  FYI...Redding, CA has California's longest continuously open race track/drag strip.  An old "Y" at California's oldest track..sounds like a good match to me.

Anyway great work.

I don't see any photos???  I do know, however, all that chrome is good for at least 50hp and about a .5 sec in the 1/4 mile.....

Mate love your project keep up the good work.

Interesting shot of the block. Is it an optical illusion or are there sleeves in all of the cylinders? I noticed the rear block plate. With the C4/Yblock bell housing there is already a need for spacers between the flywheel and converter. The block plate may make them very long as well as the crank hub spacer. I like the use of a C4. I run one in my 1931 Model A Coupe with a Cleveland motor. My friend Dana Sniff (949-559-6563) and I have worked up a super trick trans for my Coupe. Dana lives in Irvine, CA. and is one of the best for this trans. He makes and mods many parts for the racing C4. The converter I use is from Andre at EDGE racing converters in Simi Valley. My Coupe ran 9.58 @ 137 at Famoso last Fall. John and Geoff Mummert and I are working in a Yblock for the Coupe and hope to run it at the March Meet in Bakerfield this year. We are also putting on the first annual "West Coast Yblock Shootout" at Barona drag strip on the May 4-5 weekend. Hope you can make it down.

John Hildebrand

My swap meet 427 block I bought for my '63 R code galaxie had some sleeves in it, and cracks across the deck as yours does.  Got water in the cylinders.  I'm sure you are aware of wet sleeves for farm equipment.  I got some used sleeves free from a John Deere with  a usable bore size, and machined them to fit the holes in the block, but I left the flanges on the tops of the sleeves and turned them down to an appropriate size.  Then I counterbored the block for one hole, put in the sleeve, then counterbored the other one and put in that sleeve.  That makes the flanges interlock and completely cover the deck area between the sleeves.  The flanges are big enough on the OD that the gasket seals any water that tries to get through.  It's a street engine, but it works for me.

That head gasket on the lower right shows failure on the front cylinder exactly like what I found on my engine.  What puzzles me is that my heads have a post in that spot, still it fails.  I've started on another block for replacement.

Tim.  Do you need some 4.00” bore head gaskets?

Tim.  As Glen mentions, the cam tunnel in my own 4” bore block took a serious twist as a majority of the block support was removed when installing the sleeves.  For the time being, that particular rotating assembly along with a different set of pistons was moved into a 3.859” bore block and is running extremely well as a 375 incher.  My own 4” bore project has been relegated to the back of the project list.

The cracks between the cylinders appears to be an ongoing problem when going to a 4.00” bore with sleeves.  Furnace brazing the cylinders in place would probably help but that’s something that’s just not available in my part of the country.  I did try a hefty layer of epoxy resin under the deck to help strengthen this area on the big bore EMC engine but still had some issues with the deck flexing.  Didn’t blow a head gasket but water seepage into the cylinders at the edges of the sleeves was an issue.  But I was still running coolant in the block and my water issues were at the deck where the non-circular head gasket leaves the edge of the sleeve.  In my case I was using ½” head bolts and hard to say if that helped or hurt the situation.  No easy fix from my end.

Tim.  Looks like you’re just a whisker from running in the nines.  In watching the video I’ll take a WAG that the tires may have still been wet when you launched.  This would explain the tendency for the car to head for the ‘tree’.  While a longer burnout may to help dry the tires, there’s also the chance that the track itself where you launched from was not ‘dry’.  As you get more comfortable with the car and get more seat time, those et’s will come on down.  Great job just the same and glad that you are getting the car out and down the track.

Tim.  This is the first I’ve heard of the ‘grease’ trick on the inside of the chrome header tubes.  You’ll have to keep us posted on how that works and what the heated up grease specks look like when coming out of the tubes as the engine is under load as it goes down the track.

Tim.  Thanks for sharing that video.  That dragster out of control would definitely get my attention.  And that was pure luck in not tagging either wall.