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Engine Masters Updates

Posted By Y block Billy 18 Years Ago
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Y block Billy
Posted 18 Years Ago
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Have not seen much on updates for the engine masters challenge in the last couple weeks, For a subject that took off with flying colors.

You guy's must be too busy building an engine, any updates??? or is the engine masters board too scared to allow it.???

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Ted
Posted 18 Years Ago
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The registration form for the event has been sent off and should just about be in the rules committee's hands about now.  It will likely be the end of April before knowing for sure if a Y-Block entry is approved or not.  In the meantime, I'm collecting up parts and pieces to put a combination together.

The engine block is the biggest hurdle though as the engine is required to have 312 main bearing sizes.  Option 1 is to use a 312 block but I'm limited to a maximum of 3.815" bore due to piston ring availability.  I'm culling through a myriad of 312 blocks now looking for one that will clean up at the aforementioned bore size.  Option 2 is to use a 292 block and re-bore the main bores to the 312 size.  Option 3 (which I'm not considering) is to simply sleeve all eight holes in a 312 block to get it back down to the desired bore size.

As I've already started gathering up parts for this combination, I'll just go ahead and build the engine regardless even if the entry registration is not accepted but it would be a different compression ratio if not going for the Engine Masters Competition.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


pegleg
Posted 18 Years Ago
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Ted,

       I have a later Crusader block (C1 or 2) which I think is standard. I'll take a look if you don't find one.

                                                           Frank

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


Ted
Posted 18 Years Ago
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pegleg (3/31/2007)
Ted, I have a later Crusader block (C1 or 2) which I think is standard. I'll take a look if you don't find one. Frank

Frank.  Take a look at that Crusader block and see if it would clean up at 0.015" over.  Also check to see if it has the additional main webbing or reinforcing in the main area as is seen on the C2AE-B blocks.  I hope to know the cylinder bore condition of the remainder of the 312 engines I can put my hands on by the end of this upcoming week.  Gotta pull heads on some of them to check them out.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Ted
Posted 18 Years Ago
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Royce.  Did you get my email regarding camshaft specifications for the EMC engine?  If not, just let me know and I'll resend.  Thanks, Ted.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 18 Years Ago
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Ted;

Let me know if the 312 blocks or Frank's boat blocks (I did NOT say "anchors") don't work out and I'll take my standard 312 apart and check it.  It's stored in a barn with no heads, rust is in the cylinders.  Is align boring available to you in your area.  I know most shops align hone, would probably be reluctant to take 1/8" out with a hone.

John

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pegleg
Posted 18 Years Ago
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Ted, Will look tomorrow.

                              Frank

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


Y block Billy
Posted 18 Years Ago
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Ted if this works copying and pasting, These are the blocks and heads I have kicking around my house, I have probably half a dozen more blocks and sets of heads in my brothers barn about 15 minutes from me, I'll have to get up there and inventory the stuff.

For some reason the left side of the table will not show up but maybe you know a trick on your end to view it.

Block ID No

Year

Size

Condition

B9AE

59

292

My Builder, Steel crank, .060” 0ver, Ross forged pistons, C1TE rods, Clay Smith (Mummert) cam 272. Rollmaster, Chrome moly push rods. More to come!!!

 

B9AE

 

 

running cleaned in and out painted and sealed w/new gaskets.

B9AE

 

 

1 stock stuck but not bad should clean up .010”

 ECZ -

56

312

Empty block should clean up .010 -.020

ECZ -

 

312

Empty block, was stuck I disassembled some pitting should clean up .020”

C2AE

 

292

1 excellent running .040” over. New gaskets and cleaned inside needs exterior painting.

C2AE

 

292

1 excellent stock block w/ no main caps

C1AE

61

292

Was steel crank, excellent stock block

EBU

54

239

Stuck but stock bore, in process of dismantling

EBU

54

239

Stock bare block surface rust should clean up

EDB

57 - 9

292

Turns freely

EDB

57 - 9

292

 

ECG

55

272

Excellent running in my Vickey

ECG

55

272

Excellent running in my Customline

EBV

55

239

Runs, in yard truck

 

58

272

Excellent running In 58 Rack attack

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pairs of Heads

Head No

Date code/Year

Condition

ECZ - G

1957

Newly cleaned and hardened seats installed

ECZ - G

1957

Excellent used

ECZ - G

1957

 

5752 -113

58-9

Newly rebuilt

5752 -113

58-9

Excellent used

C1AE

61

Excellent used

EBU

54

On running yard truck

EBU

54

Fair need rebuilding 14mm plugs

EBU

54

Fair need rebuilding 14mm plugs

EBU

54

Fairly rusty plugs ?

COTE

60

Good used

COTE

60

Fair used

C1TE

61

Excellent Used w/ sodium valves

ECR – C or G?

?

Industrial w/ smallest combustion chamber seen on a Y head

 

 

 

 

 

 



55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Ted
Posted 18 Years Ago
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Y block Billy (3/31/2007)
Ted if this works copying and pasting, These are the blocks and heads I have kicking around my house, I have probably half a dozen more blocks and sets of heads in my brothers barn about 15 minutes from me, I'll have to get up there and inventory the stuff.

For some reason the left side of the table will not show up but maybe you know a trick on your end to view it.

Billy, I cut and paste the information over to Excel and was able to read the left side of the table.  Beats me why it pasted in the way it did unless it was pasted without first converting it to a picture format.  But I gotta love your organization just the same, makes it easy to see what you have.  If using a 312 block, I’m needing one that will clean up at a maximum of 3.814” which means only 0.007” per side is actually being removed on an unworn block.  See what you've got that will fit this criteria.  When I come across a block I think is suitable, I’ll rough bore and hone to 3.811” to insure it is in a position to clean up at the finished bore size.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Ted
Posted 18 Years Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane (3/31/2007)
Let me know if the 312 blocks or Frank's boat blocks (I did NOT say "anchors") don't work out and I'll take my standard 312 apart and check it.  It's stored in a barn with no heads, rust is in the cylinders.  Is align boring available to you in your area.  I know most shops align hone, would probably be reluctant to take 1/8" out with a hone.  John

John, I’ve talked to a local shop about align boring a 292 so that capability is here.  Question I have for you is do you leave the 292 main seal size intact or take it out to 312?.  I’ll have to look at the blocks in the rear main seal area but I can envision some issues in taking the main seal size out larger.  If I go the align boring route, then I’d prefer to have the block align bored to within 0.003” of where it needs to be and then get it align honed to the finished size.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)




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