Happy Thanksgiving!

Starting a new project, a side mount 292, T-5 in a '29 sport coupe.  If anyone has done this, do you have basic or exact measurements to help me mock up the frame mounts?  I need dimensions from the rear of the front X-member to the front of the motor mount hole and from the same start point to the T-5 trans mount.

Any help is appreciated,

Thanks,

Richard

Not sure but if you go to jalopyjournal.com, HAMB, I think there are some there. Do a search, Y-blocks, Model A.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

Whoa, now I wanna see some progress pics on this project, I would like to do a "A" with a Y block, so would be keen to follow this one. Post em up.

1957 ________________ Ford

\___((_______________))___/

(@)________V__________(@)

[________I_____I_________]

__[__]__ o_______o___[__]___



Y Blocks, The New Flathead!

Take a look here. 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=395716&highlight=model+blocks

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Putting Y blocks into model A's was very popular about the time I was in high school. I graduated in 1962. I drove a 1950 GMC pickup to school and bought Hot Rod magazines and dreamed. It was the guys that graduated in the mid 50's that already had a real job and had the money to do this type of thing. I have a 27 T that I want to put a mild 292 with a T89 into, but I need to finish about a half a dozen other projects first.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Richard, great project but think it would be much easier and more accurate to actually drop in mockup block with waterpump on it  and bellhousing and tranny and start from fan clearance to radiator, then you will know where rear x member has to go. Keep in mind how much you will have to recess or chop firewall to clear this large bellhousing. thats how i do them, regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

I'll try posting a pic, but it's as it came home.  The '46 block has two cracks in it and after chasing other blocks, my '35 has a '51 flattie, I was offered an almost complete '62 292.  I've since acquired the B 4 bbl manifold and recently, a mustang t-5.  The request for dimensions was based on wanting the tanked block at the machine shop while I was working on the chassis, plugging holes and a minor Z out back.  A '46 front axle and split bones with an 8" rear under the A spring.  Oh, a sport coupe body will be on top, top and back window channels had been cut off, so may be a "Coupster" or we may try and figure out how to make a hardtop convertible, ie roll up windows and a folding top.  It's just a literal pile of sheetmetal waiting for the patch panels.

I agree a mock up is the way to go, but I'm still a bit short on the engine parts and trans adapter, so thought I'd ask first.  I tried, but the picture is too big.  As I go, I'll take progress pics at a smaller resolution to post.  I won't really be starting for a while, but will post when I do.  And keep asking a lot of questions in the meantime.

Thanks for your help and support!!

Richard

Richard;

I'm in the process of putting a Y Block and T-5 in a 37 Ford. The frame on my 37 is probably wider and longer than on your Model A, but I can tell you some of the parts that I used and couldn't use; I couldn't use the flathead style motor mounts for starters.There was just no way I could adapt them to work on the Y Block. I used a tubular FE mount but cut out the middle section just beyond the motor mount location. The flange end of the tubular mount I welded solid to the frame. I also had to cut out the original firewall and go with a 5" recessed firewall. The motor would sit too far forward if I didn't. The X member in my 37 can be left in place  if you are  using lets say a Turbo 350 automatic which they make adapters to fit nicely in center of the X member, but it won't work for the T-5 due to the depth of the T-5 mounting location. I had to cut out most of my X member and used instead a Speedway Motors tubular transmission cross member with a 6" drop. These come in universal length that you cut to fit between your frame rails. They come with flange ends that you can bolt to the frame rails so it can be removable. By the way, I have an extra (new) one of these if you decide to go this route. I welded 1/4" steel plate in those locations so I could drill and tap them to mount the flanges. Hope this helps a little. 

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID