Tim, I think you didn't read it thoroughly...

I know the word "trick" is drag-racing-sixtyish, but what else works for this incredible engineering marvel? The pedals. Left - clutch. Right - go. Center - foot break. No ordinary foot brake though. The car has a standard hand brake for normal use but this is a "get out of jail free" brake. It not only stops the car but pulls one of the chutes. Very cool deal if you're in a situation where you really don't want to take one hand off the wheel!

I might be wrong, but that left clutch pedal might also be for operating old Crowerglide tranny?

http://www.crower.com/pdf/189-196.pdf

Some discussion about crowers and automatics etc...

http://www.alexander-grant.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/post.cgi?action=replyquote&forum=3&topic=180&postno=4

More links

http://www.roadsters.com/ndr/

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

Wow. It looks like a Y will be very competitive. I noticed it said you can use a magneto with vintage engines or factory electronic ignition. Will they allow Duraspark with a Y. Will a magneto work better for racing?

They'll have seen the 375" Engine Masters Y, when you're cleaning up with the 316, we'll know what they're thinking!


Lawrenceville, GA

I did read that part and it does say "left-clutch" The immediate plan is to run an old three speed using second and third, what the final product is remains to be seen.  For starts I am going with two pedals, clutch and gas with a hand brake, the "get out of jail free" pedal wont be needed right away since speeds will be relatively slow at first.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Seppo, if you read this thread on the HAMB you will see where I got a lot of my ideas.  These guys back east (west for you ) are required to run a clutch and most chassis fall into 120" to 150" category, N/A with carburetors.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=424253&page=2

Note the scrub engine in this one is "gutless" as most of them are.

Charlie, I think the Duraspark would be alright since you would be running the factory dizzy and I think the Mag would pass too since they consider the Y an "antique"

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

So...

I've been all over the web, and have been about 5 steps behind McTim in my research! (You're all over it bud!)



Among the MANY FED questions I have, which can be found elsewhere, how are these Y-block engines "cooled"? I see they don't have water pumps, and most have home made timing covers. Could a guy use a Marine Y-block timing cover???



I won't even get into the questions I have regarding head modification...haha



I will assume the tank in front is fuel. No water on board. Do you just fire it up at the last minute, and run it, then shut it off to prevent extreme overheating??? Sorry, this is new to me, still trying to wrap my head around it.



McTim, did you ever figure anything out regarding the Blow-proof bell-housing? I want a manual, but my wallet says C4, especially for the bell-housing.



I found a chassis locally. It is mostly there, I may look at it this weekend. Fellas, take a look and tell me what you think. I'm thinking the price is a bit high, and I am not too sure about a vintage chassis. But, I won't be going THAT fast



http://tallahassee.craigslist.org/cto/1512363489.html

1932 FORD ROADSTER ('GLASS)
1956 MERCURY 292 Y-BLOCK
D/STR
NAVARRE, FL

 

You can get Block filler from Moroso and other sources, it is kind of a mortar for lack of a better term that you mix and fill the block and/or heads then just run the engine long enough to get down the track and shut it down.  I have seen some that cool the heads but then you have a cooling system to build and maintain with extra weight too.

The chassis looks alright and the price is ok but be awere of other peoples work and how old is it?

Remember, I'm still just learning too.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Back in the 50's there were no decent racing automatics (yet) so clutches were the only thing. Some ran a clutch handle, simular to the brake handle on latter rigs. If you are using a hydraulic clutch mechanism it should be an easy thing to build. Running quick change gears allowed tunning to the use of a direct drive and one gear through the quarter. Shiftless! chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

OK!  it's official, I've been talked into a Powerglide for my build.  Sorry I ever doubted you guys.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Tim, welcome to the club . And If you go with the Wilcap adapter, I know what to do...

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

Tim and others, warning! Our TCI flexplate shield is so wide that it is almost impossible to mount to our frame. So, order your shields first before doing any chassis building to be sure those parts fit. Other brands might be easier to fit, but...

Also our TCI planetary shied interferes with our gas pedal, so there is a tight spot too...

Here is Jyrki wondering how to install new parts. Our friend Vesku is reading instructions .

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)