http://frontenginedragsters.org/photos1.htm

Are you guys going to build it from CroMo or mild steel?

Hollow Head (12/30/2009)

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Tim, way to go! Our original idea was to build a FED, but then we got some thoughts about the length of those frames and discovered that a FED won't fit into my garage! So we dropped down to Altered Dragster . Also a FED needs a whole lot longer trailer to haul it and that was another reason. Maybe the next will be FED . Or maybe RED cause we have MW prints already for that...

Are you guys going to build it from CroMo or mild steel?

I'm kinda new to this so I will be getting tips from other guys, but the gentleman that helped with my mini bike frame will be helping with this build as well, he has several frames under his belt. We will use the MW plans as a guideline but will modify to our needs.  The NHRA rules for C/GD reads "no chromemoly materials" so mild steel it is and since garage space is limited here also the wheelbase will probably be 120". I've been looking at all kinds of frames over on the HAMB so I have a pretty good idea what I want it to look like but we will see what the end result is.  The one thing that is for sure is that it will run a Y in it.  I would like to use the 341ci Y that I have already but the local track that is gearing up for cars like this has put a limit of 325ci, N/A with three speed manual or two speed auto all manual shift.

Don't exactly know your size but we had to add 2" to the width of the shoulder hoop to give us some room. And 4" to the head gage height. MW prints are for pygmys...

They are just getting started, but for now it is all N/A.  I will sertainly keep the 341 as is and just build a new short block with 316ci (3.935" x 3.250) I have found a nice combo of off the shelf parts that I can do this with.

Seppo,  the manual tranny came about because the Flathead guys are running stock trans and just using the top two gears. (one shift)  who nows what the finnished car will be like, I'm still reserching.  I did get this photo from the site you posted.

Here's a video of one of the "Flatty" cars from the last meet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ES-vCwrUt9g&feature=related

                  COOL GAS DRAGSTER (C/GD) RULES
These rules are written to build a race car to compete in the ANRA Open Wheel Category and an Eagle Field heads up category. They are only guidelines to build an affordable Dragster which could be built by any competent Do It Yourselfer with inexpensive parts found at wrecking yards and garages.
THESE ARE GUIDELINES AND WRITTEN USING THE 2008 NHRA RULE BOOK
FOR CARS 10:00 AND SLOWER
Please check current NHRA rule book when building a car
1. Frames allowed are 3 x 2 by .118 wall (or larger) rectangular tube, 3 round tube or "Open Space" with both Slingshot and Altered style chassis allowed. . No chromemoly materials allowed Minimum wheelbase of 90" SEE NHRA 4:12 , Maximum 150 C/GD rule. REMEMBER that ANRA races at an NHRA track and NHRA rules apply.
2. Front suspension optional on cars weighing 2350 lbs or less with 100 inch or longer wheelbase. SEE NHRA ET Handicap racing, Super Pro, Pro, Sportsman, Suspension, Altereds, Dragsters Also SEE NHRA 3:2, 3:4
3. All cars must have a (5 point min at ANRA events, 3 point and some nostalgia designs allowed at Eagle Field) roll cage of minimum 1 5/8, .118 Mild Steel wall tubing. No chromemoly materials allowed C/GD Rule SEE NHRA 4:11
4. Narrowed rear ends allowed and aftermarket axles required on cars running quicker than 10.99 and all cars with spool. Rear end must be equipped with an anti rotation device SEE NHRA 2:11, 2:2, 2:4, 4:9 Brakes 3:1. Drum Brakes required C/GD rule
5. A minimum of .120 Steel plate flooring to protect driver from u-joint in case of failure.
6. Cars must have cowl/body and floor boards, belly pan sufficient to prevent drivers legs from exiting vehicle unintentionally Minimum .032 Aluminum or .024 Steel. SEE NHRA 7:5 Sub flooring independent of car body is mandatory in Dragsters that allow drivers legs to rest on Belly Pan or Chassis. SEE NHRA ET Handicap Racing A minimum .032 Aluminum or .024 Steel firewall is mandatory. SEE NHRA 7:4 Windscreen 7:7
7. Cars must be equipped with an engine mounted starter and be self starting at NHRA tracks. Eagle Field will allow Vintage engines to use remote batteries.
8. Batteries must be securely mounted using modern safety standards and separate from drivers compartment. SEE NHRA 8:1
9. Cars must have a master battery cutoff switch accessible from rear of the car. SEE NHRA 8:4
10. Cars must have at least one red rear running light for night racing.
11. Manual and Automatic transmissions allowed. All cars with clutches must run a stamped steel bell housing with SFI certified clutch, flywheel and bell housing required on cars quicker than 11.50. SEE NHRA 2:3 2:5 2:6 2:10 Automatic equipped cars require a shifter with reverse lockout and neutral safety switch, cars must be manually shifted, no air or electronic shifters allowed. Transmission lines must be metallic or NHRA accepted high pressure type hose. Cars running quicker than 10.99 or faster than 135 MPH must be equipped with a transmission shield meeting SFI Spec 4.1. Trans brakes not allowed Torque Converters may not stall over 3500 RPM. Floorboard required unless trans shield and 3.2A/15 driving suit are used.
12. American made small block V-8 or 6 cylinder (325 cid or smaller) engine only, no overhead cams allowed. Engines must be naturally aspirated. No superchargers, turbos, nitrous oxide or fuel injection. Stocks cylinder heads only, NO Canted valve (example Ford Boss 302) or Angle Plug small block Chevy. OEM dimension valve springs only, "Roller" rockers not allowed, stock rocker arms only. Pistons are restricted to Flat Top or less design, NO KICKER or POP-UP. Camshaft must use hydraulic lifters, unless engine is considered "Vintage" (Ford Flat Head, Ford Y-block, Buick Nail Head etc) otherwise NO solid or hydraulic roller cams allowed. No Dry sumps, external oil pumps (except when OE equipped", Pan Evacuation systems other than PCV.
18. Zoomie headers only
13. No electronic ignition boxes (MSD etc) mounting outside the distributor allowed with the exception of factory units. HEI coil in cap, factory electronic , single and dual point distributors allowed. Conversions in the manner of Petronix that fit within a stock dist cap are allowed. Aftermarket magnetos ONLY allowed on Vintage engines.
14. Pump gas/racing gas only. No Methanol, nitromethane, or alcohol.
15. One Holley #1850 or Edelbrock Performer 1405 or 1406 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb allowed. 3 Multiple (4 allowed on Ford Flat Head and other "Vintage engines") 1bbl or 2bbl Carter, Stromberg, or Holley 94 carbs allowed. Aluminum intakes allowed (no tunnel ram type manifolds) Flash Shield or Scoop Required SEE NHRA 1:4
16. Fuel lines shall have no more than 12" total of rubber line. SEE NHRA 1:5
17. Cooling system or water tank must use a radiator cap and overflow/catch can system. SEE NHRA 1:7 NOTE: Most tracks require a cooling system and do not allow tow cars. ANRA and Eagle Field DOES NOT require a cooling system and allows tow cars in the Open Wheel category.
19 Slicks may be NO wider than 9"
20. Drivers must wear up to date NHRA acceptable full face helmet with shield (Snell M2000, M2005, K2005, SA2005, SFI 31.2A or 41.2 SEE NHRA 10:7 & ET Handicap Racing). SFI 3:3 Neck Collar or SFI 3:3 Head Sock or Skirted Helmet Required. SEE NHRA 10:8 3.2A/5 two layer fire retardant jacket & pants or suit required when transmission is covered with a floorboard, SFI 3:3 Gloves required on all open bodied cars. SEE NHRA 10:10 Leather Driving shoes 3:3A/5 & Arm Restraints required SEE NHRA 10:3
21. Five point NHRA approved safety harness required. SEE NHRA 10:5
22. No electronic/pneumatic drivers aids including rev limiters.
Shift light Tachometers are allowed
22. Cars are required to be Self Starting at NHRA tracks
Revisions made,
Name change, C/GD Cool / Gas dragster
NO canted Valve heads like the Boss 302 Ford
Magnetos allowed on Vintage engines
Solid Lifter allowed on vintage engines
Eagle Field will allow Vintage engines to use remote batteries.
External oil pumps allowed when originally equipped

I know the word "trick" is drag-racing-sixtyish, but what else works for this incredible engineering marvel? The pedals. Left - clutch. Right - go. Center - foot break. No ordinary foot brake though. The car has a standard hand brake for normal use but this is a "get out of jail free" brake. It not only stops the car but pulls one of the chutes. Very cool deal if you're in a situation where you really don't want to take one hand off the wheel!

I might be wrong, but that left clutch pedal might also be for operating old Crowerglide tranny?

http://www.crower.com/pdf/189-196.pdf

Some discussion about crowers and automatics etc...

http://www.alexander-grant.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/post.cgi?action=replyquote&forum=3&topic=180&postno=4

More links

http://www.roadsters.com/ndr/

I did read that part and it does say "left-clutch" The immediate plan is to run an old three speed using second and third, what the final product is remains to be seen.  For starts I am going with two pedals, clutch and gas with a hand brake, the "get out of jail free" pedal wont be needed right away since speeds will be relatively slow at first.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=424253&page=2

Note the scrub engine in this one is "gutless" as most of them are.

Charlie, I think the Duraspark would be alright since you would be running the factory dizzy and I think the Mag would pass too since they consider the Y an "antique"

You can get Block filler from Moroso and other sources, it is kind of a mortar for lack of a better term that you mix and fill the block and/or heads then just run the engine long enough to get down the track and shut it down.  I have seen some that cool the heads but then you have a cooling system to build and maintain with extra weight too.

The chassis looks alright and the price is ok but be awere of other peoples work and how old is it?

Remember, I'm still just learning too.

Also our TCI planetary shied interferes with our gas pedal, so there is a tight spot too...

Here is Jyrki wondering how to install new parts. Our friend Vesku is reading instructions .