What are you doing for front brakes?

You asked about welding on rear end with axles in it. Then mentioned the axle ratio. It will have to be changed or the only thing you will ever pass is the filling station. The axles have to come out so just go ahead and get it over with. It will make unit easier to move around. Make sure you get your spring mounts welded on so you have correct angle on input shaft.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

Gents,

I've got a couple of questions some of you may can answer.  I was able to latch onto a Lincoln Versailles parts car.  Got the rear end out and it looks like the spring perches are 1" wider than my 56.  Is there a problem in grinding them off and rewelding without removing the axles?  Also got the C-4 out of the lincoln, is the conversion using Mr. Mummerts bell housing pretty straight forward or will I have problems with stuff like shift linkage, speed-0-cable, cross member etc.  And lastly, the Versailles rear end has a 247 gear.  Should I go ahead and swap out to a lower gear before I install?

Later,

Timbo

Update, just heard from machine shop, block good and only needs honing.  Heads good, just a valve job with hardened exhaust seats.  Turning crank to 30 30.  Just ordered a cam, lifters and the new intake from Mr. Mummert.  Probably will order a set of headers from Reds unless some one advises otherwise.  Hopefully I will be annoying my neighbors soon!!

later,

Timbo

Conformatic pistons are just another brand of cast pistons similar to Badger and Silv-O-Lite.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Finally figured out how to post some pics.  Turns out the my crank is definately 292 and the cam is genuine ford.  Probably would replace the cam anyway, has some pretty bad pitting on a couple of lobes.  Still wondering about the conformatic pistons. 

 

Thanks so much for all of the info. I am out of town this week and it is killing me not to be able to measure my cam. I am pretty sore my crank is 292 based on the info y'all have posted. My pistons are stamped .060 and are "conformatic". Can't find much info on them but plan on reusing then unless someone advises otherwise. Sorry my pics didn't come through, will try again when I get home. Thanks again.



Timbo

Here are some pics that will allow you to identify a 312 crankshaft at 25 feet.

Impress your friends at swapmeets!

EBU= 239 256    3.100" stroke

EC= 272  292     3.300" stroke

ECZ= 312         3.440" stroke

312 ECZ Crank

272-292 EC Crank

Unfortunately 239-256 crankshafts look like 272-292 cranks. Look for EBU on 239-256 cranks.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

Welcome to the site. You might look at the cam closer, especially the back end. Crane reground a lot of stock cams. There might be some markings on the back.

Throw a dial caliper on a lobe to check the diameter. Stock cams are 1.350-1.375". If it is less than 1.300" it is a regrind.

Ford cast cranks hold up well even for performance use.

The 57 ECZ9425B intake manifold works very well for street engines.

I will post some pics on how to identify a 312 crank in another post.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

If you could find a 57 & later 4 bbl intake you could drop the adapter, & you might improve performance some, however unless you at least change the cam, a Blue Thunder is likely not money well spent.

Paul

Marine engines generally did not have forged cranks and Al and others are correct a forged crank is not necessary for street. In fact most current supercharged and Nitrous cars with over 400 hp on tap are cast cranks.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.