John- You have probably checked this, but in case you have'nt, be sure the intake/carb spacer will allow your secondaries to open. The stock items won't allow throttle plates much bigger than stock to open. David C.

Yeah, that's what I'm looking for.  I've never had any problems with the axel, so I'm assuming all the other components are in good shape.  I looked online for diff. components and also complete 3rd members and it was typically around $700-800 for a rebuild unit.  I'd like to find something for much less. 

John: Lake Forest, IL



'57 Fairlane 500 - Looking better every day.

 

I hope you know I ment a complete third member (pumpkin) not the whole rearend. 

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

When I had my truck it had a 3.73:1 axle and the engine was spinning too fast for my taste at today's highway speeds.  So it depends on how you are going to use the car.  If you intend mostly street/strip then 3.89 would be OK but driving on a longish trip would get on the nerves (at least on mine).  If you are planning on longer trips than I would say 3.50 would be a fairly good compromise although the word is compromise.

Who ever suggested checking the tire patch was on target because 2.6+sec  60' times indicate that you are quite slow at that point on the track.  A locking rear axle will help but you need to check tire pressures no matter what and play around until both wheels spin at low pressure.  One thing with radials, if you go too low with pressure they will only contact the pavement on the outsides edges of the tires.  You will see this as two stripes of black from one or both tires.  I run about 18 psi on my street tires with a Traction lok and I can get about 2.0-2.1 60' times, stickshift T bird.  So far DOT slicks didn't help that much maybe 1.9 -2.0. 

There may be engine issues also but others are on them!

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

Thanks guys - I appreciate it.  I'd like to think I can get to high 15s.  (without building a new motor)  Maybe i'm dreaming...

Let me rephrase my previous post:  What is a reasonable cost for a swap...  I like the $350 that Tim mentioned.  I see them online everywhere from $1300 to $150.  Buying just new components seem to add up to approx. $600+

John: Lake Forest, IL



'57 Fairlane 500 - Looking better every day.

I bought a complete "Trac-Loc" with new 3.50:1 gears set up and ready to install for $350 + shipping three years ago on eBay, it was an easy swap and is working great to this day.  I bought it from a guy in IN, maybe someone Frank knows. 

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

FYI, I run a 3:55 Detroit locker and at 75 mph I am reving right at 3000 rpm on the highway. I am Running 225 R16 radials on the car.

So far my best time with a stock (mileage unknown) 292 / FMX combo has been 17:02 @ 87mph. I know I can hit the 16's with some tuning and some slicks as I have been told that I am spinning the tires off the line every time. Hopefully that gives you some insight as to where you should be.  

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

John.

 You can try to find one on Ebay or Craig's list, Gears are available from Summit/jegs or a local Speed shop. There will be some one in the chicago area who can set it up for you. If not, we can work out something with a buddy of mine here in the South Bend/ Elkhart area of Northern Indiana.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Thanks ted - If I purchase a complete 28 spine unit, will it need to be test fit / adjusted for my vehicle?  Or is it a bolt in because the ring and pinion and would be set / tested before I received it. 

Is there a company that anyone has used and/or recommends for a complete aftermarket diff?

- John

John: Lake Forest, IL



'57 Fairlane 500 - Looking better every day.

John.  The 3.10’s are a good highway gear but not an adequate gear for the drag strip.  A set of 3.50-3.89’s will be a good all around gear for both performance and driving around town.  More gear simply allows the engine to get into its desired rpm band quicker.

Changing out the pumpkins is reasonably straight forward.  I've got it down to about 45 minutes from start to finish.  Just insure you're using units designed for the same spline axles.

Although you can set up ring and pinions yourself with some practice, it’s best to have someone that’s experienced with this to walk you through your first one.  Pinion bearing drag as well as pinion depth and ring gear backlash are all critical in having a set of gears that do not make noise and have long life.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)