Boy, Steve and 55birdman really jogged my memory. We had a lot of problems with HEI (scrub) modules in the fleet trucks in the early 80's. I changed the one in my 79 vette, and tossed the old one in with the jack in a baggie. Two months later, on my way home, the car quit like the key was off. Opened the hood, had fuel, no spark, and used the multi tip screwdriver to fit the hex screws and put the old one in. Drove home. Have a spare in the other scrub I own. I think I might change out the one in the 'bird, and put the old one in the trunk, and try to find the points to store in the other car. And an old dime to set the points. Both these cars also have MSD boxes, as well as a couple of my friends cars. If you don't need rev limiters or the other stuff, I wouldn't do that again for a street car.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Tried the 6V/pos. grd. Pertronix (before I sorted out overdrive solenoid/relay current drain problem). Just wasn't enough juice left over at high RPMs (misfiring), especially if headlights on.



Went back to points and never had a problem since. If your condenser is the right value, they still look fairly pristine after 20K miles plus (with positive ground). If spring tension is correct, and dist. cam is kept properly lubed, timing stays put and hardly ever needs adjusting. Switching to dual points Loadomatic conversion or Mallory would be the only upgrade I might consider (planned new motor with higher C/R might like more dwell), as I plan to stay with 6 volts for now.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Personally, you cannot beat the deal for the ACCEL setup (#2020). It is a kit that takes out the points and gives you a breakerless ignition. Very reliable. To date, I have not had any trouble out of the Y blocks I run with this setup. This kit will fit the 57 and up distributor. About a 30 minute or less modification. My father-in-laws 55 292 Club Sedan has one too. (early 60's truck distributor). No issues as of yet, plenty of miles on it, the key has been left on, but I cannot tell you for how long.

One of the main differences may be cost. I bought mine for $32 (that including shipping too) this past year on ebay. Type in Accel 2020 into the search box and see what you find.

Dan

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I JUST HAVE TO ADD MY 'TWO CENTS' TO THE DIST. MESS. I RAN A 57 DIST---SET UP WITH A MALLORY 'UNI-LIGHT' MODULE 'KIT' SINCE 1974 ON MY 55 BIRD.. WORKED GREAT FOR YEARS--THEN (AROUND 1981) IT JUST 'QUIT' IN MY DRIVEWAY. UPON INVESTIGATING THE NO SPARK CONDITION-- I FOUND OUT THE MODULE (IN DIST) WAS 'BLOWN' BAD WITH NO APPARENT CAUSE---CHECKING FURTHER-- I FOUND A BRAIDED WIRE UNDER THE BREAKER PLATE THAT WAS 'BROKEN' . THIS PLATE ROTATES BACK AND FORTH WHEN THE VAC ADVANCE IS DOING WHAT IT DOES. AFTER MILLIONS OF FLEXINGS BACK AND FORTH--IT BROKE----SOMETHING TO CK. OUT WHEN YOUR 'IN THERE' DOING THE NO-POINTS CONVERSION---WHAT THROWS YOU OFF THE TRACK IS YOU CAN'T SEE THE WIRE UNLESS YOU GO UNDER THE BREAKER PLATE TO SEE IT--VERY EASILY OVERLOOKED INDEED. OH--THIS WIRE COMPLETES THE GROUND TO THE BREAKER PLATE--LOSING THE GROUND 'BLOWS' THE MODULE--DARN!!! I 'STOLE' THE UNI-LIGHT MODULE FROM MY 69 EL-CAMINO (IT WAS 'DOWN' FOR PAINT) AND REPLACED THE BROKEN WIRE--IT FIRED RIGHT UP--STILL GOING STRONG TODAY--HMMMMMM.... THAT MEANS THIS HAS BEEN RUNNING FINE FOR OVER 36 YEARS......BYE......ED

Thanks for the tip Dan.  I bought a new Accel unit tonight for $38 including shipping.  Like you said, the deal cant be beat.

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

For a car that you drive quite a bit, you cannot beat the dependability, and the rotor for the kit is always in stock. The kit is very easy to install and to hook up. It gives a great spark, too. I put the timing on my father-in-law's 55 292 Club Sedan (running a Fordo) at almost 10 degrees - the engine really responds.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I have a Pertronix in my 62 Uni's 292. I couldn't be happier (Well aside from a 3x2 setup to go with it). Definately a ton of Bang for the Buck. Bout 110% reliable too.

55 Birdman - those wheels just make that car!

1964 F 100 LWB Roller 5.0 & T-5

2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ

2009 Harley FXSTB Night Train



"I still have a Y block - it's just not in anything yet."

Everybody has a different opinion on this. I have the Duraspark with MSD 6AL on the red car, It has worked flawlessly for 4 years now. Also I can pick up a replacement at any AutoZone/NAPA/Advance auto store anywhere if it dies.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Steve, I am in the throws of converting Y-Block points to Duraspark. I have both distributors and need some direction as how to machine the points cam. I had seen sometime ago you had offered to send a member a pdf with a blue print as how to deal with the machining of the point cam. I would greatly appreciate any help. Thank, Charles

Chas - send me a PM with an email address and I'll send you the PDF print. It is a necessary evil when you are trying to convert the Autolite style of points distributor to use a "reluctor". The cam is surface hardened and we usually take most of it off with a grinder before starting to machine it away (saves cutter inserts).

I would suggest that if you aren't going to use the Duraspark II trigger for an MSD box - that you consider making up a mount / heat sink for a GM type HEI "4 pin module". It will give you the most ignition power for the least money - and its fairly easy to hide if you don't want it seen. I'll send you the diagram for that too - eliminates the ballast resistor.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona