|
By MikeLongIsland - 15 Years Ago
|
|
I know alot of you are purists, however I hate points, are the mallory Distributors well matched to the y block? I am new to Y-blocks, just got a 56 f100
|
|
By 55Birdman - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Depends on what you are looking for. Get a 57 up distributor and install petronix innards or build you a Duraspark . Lasts forever plus 2 days.
|
|
By pcmenten - 15 Years Ago
|
Welcome to the site. A lot of knowledgeable and generous people on these boards.
Do a search for Duraspark. There's a trick ignition setup using a rebuilt y-block distributor with late 70's early 80's breaker plate, reluctor, pick-up, and vacuum advance diaphragm. I bought the rebuilt y-block (Cardone) distributor and I'm hunting for a Duraspark distributor on Craigslist.
|
|
By miker - 15 Years Ago
|
|
If your dist is good, try the Petronix. I'm running two in y's and several of my friends in other motors, and it's a set and forget.
|
|
By MikeLongIsland - 15 Years Ago
|
|
thanks guys, I will look for them
|
|
By 57FordPU - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Mike, We run the Pertronix Ignitor II (supposed to be better than the original but costs a little more) in a stock 57 dist. with an MSD capacitive discharge system. The MSD is not necessary for the street, but I believe it would help cold starts and is supposed to give better performance. I don't believe it gave us much more horsepower over the Mallory dual point system I started with, but it gave us more rpm and probably a great deal more reliability. Electronics is either "on or off". When it stops, so do you. I haven't heard of many problems with the unit, but if you believe in spares like fan belts and hoses, a back up system of the original dist. or another Pertronix unit would be advisable. My son put a pertronix unit in his street machine and it burnt up by leaving the ignition key on for an extended period of time without starting it. Here is the Pertronix site to do a little investigation; http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor2/default.aspx Hope this helps and welcome to the site.
|
|
By PWH42 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
I put over 200,000 miles on a Per-Lux(what is now Pertronix) and it would still be running if I hadn't forgotten to turn the key off one day without the engine running.That little slip of the brain roasts the electronics.
|
|
By MikeLongIsland - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Pertronix it is, thanks fellas
|
|
By GREENBIRD56 - 15 Years Ago
|
Just so this doesn't sound like a Pertronix ad - I got started down the road to using the Ford Duraspark II system by two gents who had their expensive toys die - on the freeway - on Sunday afternoons of course - with no spare Pertronix (and no spare points to try and rewire their distributors from scratch). Which can be big fun on a hot day in Arizona. After a nice towing bill and a lot of inconvenience, they decided there must be a better way. I volunteered to find the "better way" and ended up using Ford parts to do it.
The Ford Duraspark II distributor set-up has a bullet-proof trigger (also used by MSD) which can be used to run an MSD box, the Ford Duraspark II controller - and other controllers as well. Many on this site use them - they are just as reliable as the Pertronix, inifinitely more available - and cheap. And you can't beat the convenience - if you do need a new Ford style controller (about $25 at Autozone) - it just "plugs-in" external to the distributor. Takes five minutes and drive on. Mine has been "set-it and forget-it" too so thats no big deal either.
|
|
By 55Birdman - 15 Years Ago
|
|
I have had my petronix in my bird for about 8 years. Never missed a beat. I added MSD 6AL box and coil this year. I have a spare petronix set up in the glove box. But never pulled it out of the bag. Just like a Timex or the energizer bunny on and on and on . (so far)
|
|
By miker - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Boy, Steve and 55birdman really jogged my memory. We had a lot of problems with HEI (scrub) modules in the fleet trucks in the early 80's. I changed the one in my 79 vette, and tossed the old one in with the jack in a baggie. Two months later, on my way home, the car quit like the key was off. Opened the hood, had fuel, no spark, and used the multi tip screwdriver to fit the hex screws and put the old one in. Drove home. Have a spare in the other scrub I own. I think I might change out the one in the 'bird, and put the old one in the trunk, and try to find the points to store in the other car. And an old dime to set the points. Both these cars also have MSD boxes, as well as a couple of my friends cars. If you don't need rev limiters or the other stuff, I wouldn't do that again for a street car.
|
|
By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
|
Tried the 6V/pos. grd. Pertronix (before I sorted out overdrive solenoid/relay current drain problem). Just wasn't enough juice left over at high RPMs (misfiring), especially if headlights on.
Went back to points and never had a problem since. If your condenser is the right value, they still look fairly pristine after 20K miles plus (with positive ground). If spring tension is correct, and dist. cam is kept properly lubed, timing stays put and hardly ever needs adjusting. Switching to dual points Loadomatic conversion or Mallory would be the only upgrade I might consider (planned new motor with higher C/R might like more dwell), as I plan to stay with 6 volts for now.
|
|
By Daniel Jessup - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Personally, you cannot beat the deal for the ACCEL setup (#2020). It is a kit that takes out the points and gives you a breakerless ignition. Very reliable. To date, I have not had any trouble out of the Y blocks I run with this setup. This kit will fit the 57 and up distributor. About a 30 minute or less modification. My father-in-laws 55 292 Club Sedan has one too. (early 60's truck distributor). No issues as of yet, plenty of miles on it, the key has been left on, but I cannot tell you for how long. One of the main differences may be cost. I bought mine for $32 (that including shipping too) this past year on ebay. Type in Accel 2020 into the search box and see what you find. Dan
|
|
By morgus - 15 Years Ago
|
|
I JUST HAVE TO ADD MY 'TWO CENTS' TO THE DIST. MESS. I RAN A 57 DIST---SET UP WITH A MALLORY 'UNI-LIGHT' MODULE 'KIT' SINCE 1974 ON MY 55 BIRD.. WORKED GREAT FOR YEARS--THEN (AROUND 1981) IT JUST 'QUIT' IN MY DRIVEWAY. UPON INVESTIGATING THE NO SPARK CONDITION-- I FOUND OUT THE MODULE (IN DIST) WAS 'BLOWN' BAD WITH NO APPARENT CAUSE---CHECKING FURTHER-- I FOUND A BRAIDED WIRE UNDER THE BREAKER PLATE THAT WAS 'BROKEN' . THIS PLATE ROTATES BACK AND FORTH WHEN THE VAC ADVANCE IS DOING WHAT IT DOES. AFTER MILLIONS OF FLEXINGS BACK AND FORTH--IT BROKE----SOMETHING TO CK. OUT WHEN YOUR 'IN THERE' DOING THE NO-POINTS CONVERSION---WHAT THROWS YOU OFF THE TRACK IS YOU CAN'T SEE THE WIRE UNLESS YOU GO UNDER THE BREAKER PLATE TO SEE IT--VERY EASILY OVERLOOKED INDEED. OH--THIS WIRE COMPLETES THE GROUND TO THE BREAKER PLATE--LOSING THE GROUND 'BLOWS' THE MODULE--DARN!!! I 'STOLE' THE UNI-LIGHT MODULE FROM MY 69 EL-CAMINO (IT WAS 'DOWN' FOR PAINT) AND REPLACED THE BROKEN WIRE--IT FIRED RIGHT UP--STILL GOING STRONG TODAY--HMMMMMM.... THAT MEANS THIS HAS BEEN RUNNING FINE FOR OVER 36 YEARS......BYE......ED
|
|
By 46yblock - 15 Years Ago
|
Daniel Jessup (2/24/2009)
Personally, you cannot beat the deal for the ACCEL setup (#2020). It is a kit that takes out the points and gives you a breakerless ignition. Very reliable. To date, I have not had any trouble out of the Y blocks I run with this setup. This kit will fit the 57 and up distributor. About a 30 minute or less modification. My father-in-laws 55 292 Club Sedan has one too. (early 60's truck distributor). No issues as of yet, plenty of miles on it, the key has been left on, but I cannot tell you for how long. One of the main differences may be cost. I bought mine for $32 (that including shipping too) this past year on ebay. Type in Accel 2020 into the search box and see what you find. Dan Thanks for the tip Dan. I bought a new Accel unit tonight for $38 including shipping. Like you said, the deal cant be beat. Mike
|
|
By Daniel Jessup - 15 Years Ago
|
For a car that you drive quite a bit, you cannot beat the dependability, and the rotor for the kit is always in stock. The kit is very easy to install and to hook up. It gives a great spark, too. I put the timing on my father-in-law's 55 292 Club Sedan (running a Fordo) at almost 10 degrees - the engine really responds. 
|
|
By Greg D - 15 Years Ago
|
I have a Pertronix in my 62 Uni's 292. I couldn't be happier (Well aside from a 3x2 setup to go with it). Definately a ton of Bang for the Buck. Bout 110% reliable too.
55 Birdman - those wheels just make that car!
|
|
By pegleg - 15 Years Ago
|
Everybody has a different opinion on this. I have the Duraspark with MSD 6AL on the red car, It has worked flawlessly for 4 years now. Also I can pick up a replacement at any AutoZone/NAPA/Advance auto store anywhere if it dies.
|
|
By chaz m c - 13 Years Ago
|
|
Steve, I am in the throws of converting Y-Block points to Duraspark. I have both distributors and need some direction as how to machine the points cam. I had seen sometime ago you had offered to send a member a pdf with a blue print as how to deal with the machining of the point cam. I would greatly appreciate any help. Thank, Charles
|
|
By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
|
|
Chas - send me a PM with an email address and I'll send you the PDF print. It is a necessary evil when you are trying to convert the Autolite style of points distributor to use a "reluctor". The cam is surface hardened and we usually take most of it off with a grinder before starting to machine it away (saves cutter inserts). I would suggest that if you aren't going to use the Duraspark II trigger for an MSD box - that you consider making up a mount / heat sink for a GM type HEI "4 pin module". It will give you the most ignition power for the least money - and its fairly easy to hide if you don't want it seen. I'll send you the diagram for that too - eliminates the ballast resistor.
|
|
By Rono - 13 Years Ago
|
|
Daniel; I looked at the Accel 2020 set up on line. I'm currently running a Pertronix with a BlasterII Coil so I could do away with the ballast resistor. For the blower motor I'm building now, I'm looking at other options (even though I have no complaints with the Pertronix). So, do you run a ballast resistor with your Accel set-up? Rono
|
|
By Daniel Jessup - 13 Years Ago
|
|
For safety's sake, yes. Although the instructions do say that if you run one of their coils, you won't need an external resistor. Maybe you could just run your current coil if the specs are the same as the Accel coils??? Don't know about that one. I still run just a stock Ford coil. The ignition would probably do better if I upgraded to a coil with more juice, but I will let my father-in-law take care of that one right now. As an aside, I do have another ACCEL 2020 setup that I plan to put in my blown 292's distributor, just haven't gotten around to it yet. Still running original points, resistor, Ford coil and all.
|
|
By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
|
|
Guys - these points eliminator chips basically operate much like the points and dizzy cam did before them - they turn on the coil for a certain "dwell" period and the coil is charged to that point (by operating a power transistor that closes the circuit) then it is opened to "fire" by induction. The instructions and spec's I found imply that the power transistor in the Accel 2020 can survive with a conventional coil down to 1.2 OHMs resistance. A good old fashioned "dwell meter" will show you what the chip is designed to do - by simply hooking it up like you had points in there. For instance - the Ford Duraspark controller uses a chip that provides a fixed 26° dwell. Chances are pretty good that the early Pertronix Ignitor and the Accel 2020 do pretty much the same thing. Try them and see....
|
|
By Daniel Jessup - 13 Years Ago
|
|
Steve, Well, that's another "duh" moment for me.  I have a dwell meter I use with my old points setup, but I never did think about using that (to see where it's at) on the ACCEL modified dizzy I have. Sounds like a good idea.
|
|
By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
|
|
Don't feel like the lone ranger...Double Duh for me - there was this moment of "insight" when I caught on - but before that a long period where it was "magic"..... The fixed dwell interval set-up translates to a time of charging the coil - that steadily declines as the revs go up. It turns out that the 26° dwell is "protecting" the transistor "on" time at idle - the longer heating interval that's possible there, not the short buzz when the rpm is upstairs. So - with the limitation of 1.2 OHMs minimum in the coil primary, the big amps that can damage the transistor happen down at 500 rev's or so - you (and the engine) would like more dwell on the other end - but the chip "isn't that smart". The next generation of chips - like the GM HEI or the Pertronix II alter the dwell to control coil amperage. At idle it drops to something low like 15° and as the revs go up - the dwell goes up. You can see it on a dwell meter too - as high as 35°. It can then give more performance with the same transistor - it just "saves" the full thermal capacity for use at a higher rpm. The next thing you run up against is time - there comes an rpm where you can't extend the dwell any more without "stepping" on the next cycle. So to get more performance, you would then need for current to flow more freely - less OHMs in the coil primary......and so on. The GM chips (actually I think a Motorola product is buried in there) are pretty good performance pieces and have been used in every sort of aftermarket device - to do the same thing. For many years they had a limitation of 5.5 amps at idle (better have a good coil to match) that tapered off to 2.5 at 3000 revs. Now they are up to about 7.5 amps max with a similar drop off. Probably developed a better power transistor to provide the "switch". 
|
|
By easyissy - 13 Years Ago
|
|
I also use the Accel Point Eliminator with no problems on my '58 Ford Custom 300 with a 292. Here a link to the guy I got mine from: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACCEL-POINTS-ELIMINATOR-KIT-1957-1974-FORD-V-8-2020-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b7febb30QQitemZ170590649136QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I still don't understand why the Petronix unit is 3x more expensive. 
|