The stock steady rests mount to the side of the block(by the water petcocks) and then the same setup of a rod/but shorter attaches to the frame sides with rubber bushings on to a bracket. The header design of tubes/for the best flow, prevents the use of the stock location steadies, so they were built into the header design. clear as mud?

Hang on I think I have a picture somewhere-here it is.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Clear as mud!



So the engine will be forced to pivot along the center-line of the front and rear mounts. The center-line of the crankshaft will be the approximate source of the force. The header mounted steady rest will be positioned farther from the fulcrum than the stock steady rest. Am I right in thinking that the header mounted rest will not have as much force acting on it?



Now let me really throw myself out there.

What is the installed orientation of the header steady rest? I'm figuring that the relation of the rods to the stand-off will be approximately 90 degrees. Given the length of the rods, the arc in which they travel will be more or less in a horizontal plane, which means that the spherical rod ends will be loaded mostly as designed. It seems like most of the force will be acting horizontally rather than vertically.

I think the best war to improve upon the design is to rotate the rod end 90 degrees and use a clevis so that all of the force will be transmitted as intended.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie - Solid clamping the ball of the rod end is an accepted mounting practice - and some rod end manufacturers even produce the little tapered clamping rings for use like this with a torqued capscrew.

The output driveshaft torque is applied to these supports as if everything is rotating around an axis going through the front and rear rubber mounts of the engine and tranny (t-bird arrangement) and then resisted by these sidemount "steady rests". So they have to be as strong as the u-joints - and spaced as far apart as they are, the loads are really reduced. 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Steve, After further examining this, I have some of the female heim joints and looked over how they might be adapted. The ones I have are too big. But, anyway it got me to thinking, I am going to make that change. But… shouldn't a street car have some give there as in the rubber bushings? Afterall if it were rock solid or with urethane bushings somehow to the frame there would be no absorbsion of vibration? Again I am talking 300 odd horsepower in a primarily street driven car.



If it were a race setup you could lock it up. right? You wouldn't being going for a setup that was a compromise, quiet and comfy with 300hp.



An example I can think of is say…Ted's roadster, the engine is basically bolted to the frame (I think?)and the flexing of the frame absorbs the torque, but of course Teds not looking for less vibration and is why the front wheels leave the ground alot.



I do think I can get some new heims and rotate them. But it still seems like as you said the driveshaft/u-joint etc. could be just as weak, or become the weakest link, so the chase begins.



I have seen several birds with the steadies cracked, so I know this is a point of pressure, but I think I said earlier, You have to make sure they are kept adjusted. And a backup safety (chain) of some kind if you plan on racing regularly.



I know that when you completely remove the steadies, the engine can rock from side to side at least an inch either way. So the pivot is the front and back mounts. I also realize at this point that I may change my stock Mustang trans mount for a racing version to counteract some of this "roll".



I see how one might relocate the stock steady location to the top of the frame and weld on the mounts there. This would allow one to use shorter steady rods too.



If nothing gives, Then something may eventually break. Assuming the tires aren't spinning.



I appreciate the discussion. and thanks for all the help. I would like to incorporate some this and maybe we can all learn something, or at least me.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

I hear if you get real good at it, you can cut fine threads! 

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Do you do these drawings on the fly, Steve?  You have a drawing for everything!

I'm suggesting the design on the left rather than the one on the right:

This way the rod end will be used just as designed.  This, along with your improvement for the bending situation should maximize the strength of the steady rest.

Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie - I have an old orthographic style CAD system that I keep resident on my computer(s) - called "Cadkey". It's quick and doesn't smudge like my hand sketches do. When I have created a "picture" (lines in a white space) - I put that into "Paint" to add words, tint, whatever. Paint will let you save the drawing as a bit map until its done - then I save it as a JPEG (smudges the lines a bit) and transfer over into "Paintbucket" to use on the website. 

The ball of the rod end is (I believe) rated to carry a greater load than the pin bore (has much greater bearing area too). I would have to look it up in the Timken/Torrington literature. These "ball bushings" are used in machinery for a lot more than rod ends. The clevis adds several extra parts so we often just clamp the ball.....But pulling on the ball sideways is always verboten.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Do you think you had to notch the frame because the trans adapter put the trans further back in the chassis. The adapter is about 1 1/2 thick right? I was thinking of a thinner steel adapter that would keep the trans closer to the front of the car and away from the X-member. I would have to make it of course, but it would eliminate the cutting of the frame which is harder to do with the body on.

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.

Gary, If you are up to the task of making the adapter, then dive in. But you will still need an appropriate flywheel, Hub Adapter and starter that engages properly. I have no issues with the Bendstens adapter as yet.

In answer to pushing the trans back, yes it does, about 1 1/2" like you said but trimming the x member is not difficult with the body on. I was dreading it but it actually turned out to be pretty simple. + you'll have need room around the rear of the trans for other linkage etc.

If you are nervous about sawing up your frame I was too. But the hurt goes away after you drive your bird with a 4 speed automatic, doing 75 mph at 1900 rpm. And besides if you do it right only an expert could see where it was altered.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

I was a Machinist in a previous life. After making the adapter,With the 59 flexplate and an a new gear drive starter to fit the 312, all I need to do is make a pilot bushing for the AOD converter and space the converter to make sure it is engaged in the transmission pump. I will probably have to some fitting for the starter  in the trans bellhousing area. I could trim the Left side of the frame for the linkage if needed. Thanks for the photo journal, it is very helpfull.

Thanks

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.