I just refilled my Rebuild with coolant and water Pump is dripping from mating surface of Timing Cover. Got take it apart Tomorrow. I was thinking of using the "Right Stuff" Gasket Maker instead of Paper Gasket with Sealer. Good Idea or not?  

  

I would expect any RTV would do the job. Seems everyone has their favorite and mine is the copper RTV because the copper content gives it a good "clotting" characteristic. Also, on my particular block, there is one bolt hole that penetrates the water jacket which would require sealant on those bolt threads. 

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

OK Thanks. Actually there are 2 Bolts that need Sealant on Threads but this is dripping from Bottom. Should have just used RTV from the Start.

  

I used the paper gaskets and Red High-Temp RTV between the WP spacer and timing cover and between the WP and spacer on my 55 Tbird. No leaks.

I've never had luck going with JUST paper. Need a little Gasgacinch or RTV or bearing grease. People say you don't need both but I'd rather have the little extra insurance that I'm not gonna have to take it apart just to fix a leak. Water is especially unforgiving because it's so thin.
Just don't glob RTV on though. It looks very hack and I can't stand it.

I always use a thin coat of the orange RTV on both sides of the gasket   Beware about using too much  sealant as it may separate inside and  clog up water passages and thermostats

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

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Are you sure it is leaking from the gasket surface?  I have found that the weep hole on the pump us the culprit,  It could be that the internal seal has failed.

Got it fixed up. Water Pump leaking so I re-installed using Permatex "Right Stuff". With so much good Gasket Replacement RTV Type Stuff around I don't know why I even bothered with Gasket from Best Gasket Set. I used the "Right Stuff" on the Rear Main Seal instead of the Side Seals. Did this last Time I had this apart when I first bought the Car in 2018. Had no problem with Leak after that. "Right Stuff" dries as a flexible Seal which works even as the Engine gets Hot. Not affected by Temperature. When I disassembled the Engine to rebuild  I had to cut the "Right Stuff" with a sharp Putty Knife to release the Seal Retainer. Stuff Seals and stays flexible. Seems to Me using the Side Seals is the same Technology used in 1954. There is a better way to stop rear Main Oil Leaks.

  

Are you sure its not coming from the weep hole at the bottom of the water pump? Where the bearing shaft is. That means rebuild the water pump or get a new one. Water will run back and down the face of the water pump and look like a gasket leak.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire