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By oldcarmark - Last Month
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I just refilled my Rebuild with coolant and water Pump is dripping from mating surface of Timing Cover. Got take it apart Tomorrow. I was thinking of using the "Right Stuff" Gasket Maker instead of Paper Gasket with Sealer. Good Idea or not?
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
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I would expect any RTV would do the job. Seems everyone has their favorite and mine is the copper RTV because the copper content gives it a good "clotting" characteristic. Also, on my particular block, there is one bolt hole that penetrates the water jacket which would require sealant on those bolt threads.
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By oldcarmark - Last Month
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OK Thanks. Actually there are 2 Bolts that need Sealant on Threads but this is dripping from Bottom. Should have just used RTV from the Start.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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FORD DEARBORN (8/13/2026)
I would expect any RTV would do the job. Seems everyone has their favorite and mine is the copper RTV because the copper content gives it a good "clotting" characteristic. Also, on my particular block, there is one bolt hole that penetrates the water jacket which would require sealant on those bolt threads.
I used the paper gaskets and Red High-Temp RTV between the WP spacer and timing cover and between the WP and spacer on my 55 Tbird. No leaks.
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By Big Tim - Last Month
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I've never had luck going with JUST paper. Need a little Gasgacinch or RTV or bearing grease. People say you don't need both but I'd rather have the little extra insurance that I'm not gonna have to take it apart just to fix a leak. Water is especially unforgiving because it's so thin.
Just don't glob RTV on though. It looks very hack and I can't stand it.
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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I always use a thin coat of the orange RTV on both sides of the gasket Beware about using too much sealant as it may separate inside and clog up water passages and thermostats
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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By cokefirst - Last Month
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Are you sure it is leaking from the gasket surface? I have found that the weep hole on the pump us the culprit, It could be that the internal seal has failed.
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By oldcarmark - Last Month
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Got it fixed up. Water Pump leaking so I re-installed using Permatex "Right Stuff". With so much good Gasket Replacement RTV Type Stuff around I don't know why I even bothered with Gasket from Best Gasket Set. I used the "Right Stuff" on the Rear Main Seal instead of the Side Seals. Did this last Time I had this apart when I first bought the Car in 2018. Had no problem with Leak after that. "Right Stuff" dries as a flexible Seal which works even as the Engine gets Hot. Not affected by Temperature. When I disassembled the Engine to rebuild I had to cut the "Right Stuff" with a sharp Putty Knife to release the Seal Retainer. Stuff Seals and stays flexible. Seems to Me using the Side Seals is the same Technology used in 1954. There is a better way to stop rear Main Oil Leaks.
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By MoonShadow - Last Month
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Are you sure its not coming from the weep hole at the bottom of the water pump? Where the bearing shaft is. That means rebuild the water pump or get a new one. Water will run back and down the face of the water pump and look like a gasket leak.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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oldcarmark (8/15/2026)
Got it fixed up. Water Pump leaking so I re-installed using Permatex "Right Stuff". With so much good Gasket Replacement RTV Type Stuff around I don't know why I even bothered with Gasket from Best Gasket Set. I used the "Right Stuff" on the Rear Main Seal instead of the Side Seals. Did this last Time I had this apart when I first bought the Car in 2018. Had no problem with Leak after that. "Right Stuff" dries as a flexible Seal which works even as the Engine gets Hot. Not affected by Temperature. When I disassembled the Engine to rebuild I had to cut the "Right Stuff" with a sharp Putty Knife to release the Seal Retainer. Stuff Seals and stays flexible. Seems to Me using the Side Seals is the same Technology used in 1954. There is a better way to stop rear Main Oil Leaks.
1 Minute or 90 Minute "Right Stuff"?
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By oldcarmark - Last Month
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I used the 90 Minute version on rear Main. No hurry to put it back in Service as I was re-assembling the Motor. Gives more Time to work with it and make sure the Void for Side Seal is completely filled. You should see a very small amount seeping from the side of the Seal Retainer .There is a way to test the Seal for leakage by squirting a small amount of Oil on inside of Seal and try blowing compressed Air from inside and look for bubbles. I believe this is a much better way to do rear Main seal unless You do them as often as some of the Experts do them the old way. If You think about it re-placement Neoprene Rear Seals have been around for Years on most Ford Engines. Most are successful if installed properly on a good Crankshaft Surface. The Y-Block is the only One that has side Seals which is where most Leak from in My opinion. Using "Right Stuff" should fix this Area of Leakage. Others on this Site share that Opinion.
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