Don't cut corners when it comes to safety. Many years ago, my friend asked his father to help him work on his 55 Tri-Five. While his father was under the car, it fell on his head. Although he survived, he was never the same. 

In my 55 bird I have used a chain under the trans and over the frame. I also use a block of wood between the floor tunnel and the end of the tailshaft to help hold the transmission from sagging down in the front.

  Vic Correnti

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Since I’ll be hanging both the trans & bell housing, I’ll likely use double ratchet straps. One set connected from the bell housing to the hood release brackets screwed to the firewall, and the other connected set wrapped around the fenders and hooked to the frame. I figure if both sets are ratcheted tight once the motor’s weight is well off the mount, the bell housing should stay high enough up for the splines to easily engage the new engine/clutch assembly (?). The wood block would be a safety back-up.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

If you ask me, wrapping around the fenders, if there is any amount of weight on the straps, will dent the fenders.  Your car, but

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Body work ain't cheap. 

If you have a decent floor jack - 

https://www.amazon.com/labwork-Transmission-Adapter-Capacity-Gearbox/dp/B0FB3RQ8GP?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5rhj4nIaj_B3V1_2U0q2Fes3KeR_Pnl3HAfjx0c0MYaSB5XtbWGWWQ_mwyAnqvjtsKjPOFyI4OSfACbYtzoXWQEHgVgXHCq9jUjnWgebfRTYi3DcwiWhTTZD7xjEbHavGI9yE-fGpBOQ-tbD_Q3j7P9DZSJ9UMncS-1JIfqLcjU9Yh2RYz_pQvrB9bNt5C7UgpL91grYV_tvCIBYgsvRDvmJz7iCq5V_WtQjKjR92UCxl0Ulmi1MAucvgiPoQ2AaqJRPuw_shrcOsQYQJ0qjxQzUk4UdnTKpkP_qOBM4ZeI.gm_l8uu6sGxS5jL16e4jZKDPI6LoGzS3F4LIgKy8uuU&dib_tag=se&keywords=transmission+floor+jack+adapter&qid=1792226302&sr=8-7

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I wouldn’t try it on a modern car, but with enough padding, and especially since the weight will be half (other half on the firewall), I think the heavy gauge steel fenders shouldn’t bend. I need to support the weight from above, since a  jack likely not practical as I’ll be rolling the car back to free the hoisted engine. Since the body will rise when the weight comes off, a jack would need gradual height adjustment. How could I access it from the side with the body that low, or even still have it roll with the car?
I’m wondering if the rear support bracket bolts should likely be loosened a bit, so the trans will be more free to tip (?). I WILL need the jack once the engine is out, since I plan to replace the rear mount rubber, and the car will then be up on stands for that.
This is all pretty much new to me, as I haven’t pulled a motor in 65 years, and that one didn’t go well.😁 

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I think you are asking for trouble, but it is your car.  I hope it does not happen

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Daniel, I believe you had concerns about a shop crane not raising the engine high enough to clear the nose. For what it's worth, I have a Harbor Freight shop crane and my F100 is much higher than the T- bird and it cleared the top radiator support. As the weight is being transferred to the crane and the body begins to rise, there should? be enough room for a floor jack to be placed in some fashion under the trans to support it. Raise the hoist a little then raise the jack a little and repeat,  until you can wheel the engine on crane back etc..  I would add that removing the hood would allow the head room needed to do this. Please don't get in a fight with gravity - stay safe....

64F100 57FAIRLANE500