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By DANIEL TINDER - 4 Months Ago
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The ‘55 has no front cross member trans. support, only rear. Thus the bell-housing/trans assembly must be somehow supported when the engine is pulled. The author of the latest Y-Block engine book suggests removing the hood, and pushing the car back to get the motor off the trans. splines, which would require whatever support is under the bell-housing should then be mobile. It seems to me that a simpler solution would likely be some sort of Jerry-rigged crossmember support attached to the frame rails (?).
I have a small rolling floor jack that could support the bell-housing, but not sure it could be reached/adjusted from under the car when the engine weight is removed and the suspension thus elevated. Since I’m not sure my cherry-picker hoist will even have the elevation to raise the engine enough to clear the front nose panel, let alone the fender, I HAD assumed I could just remove the front wheels, and lower the car onto blocks (supporting the trans.), and then merely push the hoist forward, which would insure fender clearance and also permit leaving the hood in place. Not something necessarily recommended to be attempted solo, though I know it has been done.
However I decide to proceed, I’m sure some unexpected glitch will rear it’s ugly head, leaving me flummoxed, and at the worst possible time (Murphy’s Law) 😫
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By paul2748 - 4 Months Ago
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I have used a ratchet strap tie down to support the front of the trans the last time I did an engine change. Ran it from frame side to frame side. Worked very well.
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By 55blacktie - 4 Months Ago
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The 1955 Ford Car Shop Manual has step-by-step instructions for removing the engine without the transmission for a 1955 Thunderbird. The manual has been reproduced as is readily available from Classic Ford/Thunderbird parts suppliers.
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By oldcarmark - 4 Months Ago
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Ratchet Strap. I just did my 56 Fairlane using One to support Trans while Engine is out.
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By Big Tim - 4 Months Ago
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Perhaps this may work?
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 4 Months Ago
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I used a piece of 1x2 wood slightly longer than the width of the frame rails outside to outside and two pieces of all thread about a foot long, size doesn't matter, I think I used 5/16. About 1 inch from one end, bend the all thread a little more than 90 degrees. Hook these ends into the tooling holes on the insides of the frame rails near the front of the trans, put the all thread into appropriate holes in the board, put a flat washer and nut on the ends of the all thread, run the nuts up to support the front of the transmission where you want it, and all is well..
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By 55blacktie - 4 Months Ago
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Transmission jack. Mine has nylon straps to secure the transmission to the jack.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 4 Months Ago
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55blacktie (7/23/2026)
The 1955 Ford Car Shop Manual has step-by-step instructions for removing the engine without the transmission for a 1955 Thunderbird. The manual has been reproduced as is readily available from Classic Ford/Thunderbird parts suppliers.
The shop manual instructions are rather confused, in that they direct removal of the clutch operating assembly parts, as if the bell-housing was being removed with engine (including trans. bolt torque #s), yet also direct the extraction of bell-housing bolts & dowels. Am I wrong, or can’t the block/clutch be removed/reinstalled without disturbing the throwout operating parts (?).
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By Ted - 4 Months Ago
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My preference to removing a Y engine from a standard transmission equipped car is to unbolt the four bolts that attach the bellhousing from the engine and disconnect the clutch Z-bar pivot from the block. The engine coming forward then allows the tranny with the bellhousing still attached to it to remain in the chassis. A jack under the transmission keeps it from dropping too much.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 4 Months Ago
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oldcarmark (7/23/2026)
Ratchet Strap. I just did my 56 Fairlane using One to support Trans while Engine is out.
O.C.Mark,
Could you be more specific re: how the strap was rigged? I just wonder if the angle from the T-Bird frame rails would allow application of enough force to hold the trans. & bellhousing above the final crank/clutch position (?)
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By 55blacktie - 4 Months Ago
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DANIEL TINDER (7/27/2026)
oldcarmark (7/23/2026)
Ratchet Strap. I just did my 56 Fairlane using One to support Trans while Engine is out. O.C.Mark,
Could you be more specific re: how the strap was rigged? I just wonder if the angle from the T-Bird frame rails would allow application of enough force to hold the trans. & bellhousing above the final crank/clutch position (?)
Don't cut corners when it comes to safety. Many years ago, my friend asked his father to help him work on his 55 Tri-Five. While his father was under the car, it fell on his head. Although he survived, he was never the same.
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By Vic Correnti - 4 Months Ago
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In my 55 bird I have used a chain under the trans and over the frame. I also use a block of wood between the floor tunnel and the end of the tailshaft to help hold the transmission from sagging down in the front.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 4 Months Ago
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Vic Correnti (7/28/2026)
In my 55 bird I have used a chain under the trans and over the frame. I also use a block of wood between the floor tunnel and the end of the tailshaft to help hold the transmission from sagging down in the front.
Thanks Vic,
Wood block should help, especially if angle allows cranking the ratchet straps tighter and elevating the trans. shaft to ease engine engagement.
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Month
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Since I’ll be hanging both the trans & bell housing, I’ll likely use double ratchet straps. One set connected from the bell housing to the hood release brackets screwed to the firewall, and the other connected set wrapped around the fenders and hooked to the frame. I figure if both sets are ratcheted tight once the motor’s weight is well off the mount, the bell housing should stay high enough up for the splines to easily engage the new engine/clutch assembly (?). The wood block would be a safety back-up.
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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If you ask me, wrapping around the fenders, if there is any amount of weight on the straps, will dent the fenders. Your car, but
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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DANIEL TINDER (10/16/2026)
Since I’ll be hanging both the trans & bell housing, I’ll likely use double ratchet straps. One set connected from the bell housing to the hood release brackets screwed to the firewall, and the other connected set wrapped around the fenders and hooked to the frame. I figure if both sets are ratcheted tight once the motor’s weight is well off the mount, the bell housing should stay high enough up for the splines to easily engage the new engine/clutch assembly (?). The wood block would be a safety back-up.
Body work ain't cheap.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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If you have a decent floor jack -
https://www.amazon.com/labwork-Transmission-Adapter-Capacity-Gearbox/dp/B0FB3RQ8GP?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5rhj4nIaj_B3V1_2U0q2Fes3KeR_Pnl3HAfjx0c0MYaSB5XtbWGWWQ_mwyAnqvjtsKjPOFyI4OSfACbYtzoXWQEHgVgXHCq9jUjnWgebfRTYi3DcwiWhTTZD7xjEbHavGI9yE-fGpBOQ-tbD_Q3j7P9DZSJ9UMncS-1JIfqLcjU9Yh2RYz_pQvrB9bNt5C7UgpL91grYV_tvCIBYgsvRDvmJz7iCq5V_WtQjKjR92UCxl0Ulmi1MAucvgiPoQ2AaqJRPuw_shrcOsQYQJ0qjxQzUk4UdnTKpkP_qOBM4ZeI.gm_l8uu6sGxS5jL16e4jZKDPI6LoGzS3F4LIgKy8uuU&dib_tag=se&keywords=transmission+floor+jack+adapter&qid=1792226302&sr=8-7
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Month
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I wouldn’t try it on a modern car, but with enough padding, and especially since the weight will be half (other half on the firewall), I think the heavy gauge steel fenders shouldn’t bend. I need to support the weight from above, since a jack likely not practical as I’ll be rolling the car back to free the hoisted engine. Since the body will rise when the weight comes off, a jack would need gradual height adjustment. How could I access it from the side with the body that low, or even still have it roll with the car?
I’m wondering if the rear support bracket bolts should likely be loosened a bit, so the trans will be more free to tip (?). I WILL need the jack once the engine is out, since I plan to replace the rear mount rubber, and the car will then be up on stands for that.
This is all pretty much new to me, as I haven’t pulled a motor in 65 years, and that one didn’t go well.😁
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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I think you are asking for trouble, but it is your car. I hope it does not happen
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
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Daniel, I believe you had concerns about a shop crane not raising the engine high enough to clear the nose. For what it's worth, I have a Harbor Freight shop crane and my F100 is much higher than the T- bird and it cleared the top radiator support. As the weight is being transferred to the crane and the body begins to rise, there should? be enough room for a floor jack to be placed in some fashion under the trans to support it. Raise the hoist a little then raise the jack a little and repeat, until you can wheel the engine on crane back etc.. I would add that removing the hood would allow the head room needed to do this. Please don't get in a fight with gravity - stay safe....
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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"I need to support the weight from above, since a jack likely not practical as I’ll be rolling the car back to free the hoisted engine."
Why will you be rolling the chassis back? Little room in your garage/shop?
You will be removing the hood and radiator?
The thought of supporting weight on the fenders scare the bejesus out of me.
Trans does not need seal work while apart?
CLICK HERE - https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-load-leveler-60659.html
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By Ted - Last Month
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I am against using the fenders for anything other than holding a layer paint or a fender cover to simply be able to work over them. Under no circumstances would I consider using them to be a support for removing or installing the engine.
Here are some links to other threads within this forum regarding the engine extraction and installation in the early Birds.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost163263.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost113140.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost120273.aspx
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Month
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OK, OK, I give up! At the very least, I wouldn’t want to risk the leaded joint at the cowl cracking. I just don’t see how ratchet straps could do the job otherwise. I’ll see if the floor jack can be operated from the side with the motor lifted slightly. If so, I guess I could hire some help to steady/move the engine & hoist, rather than push the car away myself.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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DANIEL TINDER (10/18/2026)
OK, OK, I give up! At the very least, I wouldn’t want to risk the leaded joint at the cowl cracking. I just don’t see how ratchet straps could do the job otherwise. I’ll see if the floor jack can be operated from the side with the motor lifted slightly. If so, I guess I could hire some help to steady/move the engine & hoist, rather than push the car away myself.
My transmission jack has straps to secure the transmission to the jack and it has casters. If the transmission is secured to the jack, the jack should move with the car as long as it's on smooth, flat ground. However, I haven't put it to the test because I intend to remove and install the engine and transmission as one unit.
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Month
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Motor came out ok without help, but was a bit tricky due to the angle. Constant adjusting of hoist/trans jack heights & motor angle. Wouldn’t try installing the new one alone though. Have to figure now about the spacers I found on the splines.
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