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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Month
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The ‘55 has no front cross member trans. support, only rear. Thus the bell-housing/trans assembly must be somehow supported when the engine is pulled. The author of the latest Y-Block engine book suggests removing the hood, and pushing the car back to get the motor off the trans. splines, which would require whatever support is under the bell-housing should then be mobile. It seems to me that a simpler solution would likely be some sort of Jerry-rigged crossmember support attached to the frame rails (?).
I have a small rolling floor jack that could support the bell-housing, but not sure it could be reached/adjusted from under the car when the engine weight is removed and the suspension thus elevated. Since I’m not sure my cherry-picker hoist will even have the elevation to raise the engine enough to clear the front nose panel, let alone the fender, I HAD assumed I could just remove the front wheels, and lower the car onto blocks (supporting the trans.), and then merely push the hoist forward, which would insure fender clearance and also permit leaving the hood in place. Not something necessarily recommended to be attempted solo, though I know it has been done.
However I decide to proceed, I’m sure some unexpected glitch will rear it’s ugly head, leaving me flummoxed, and at the worst possible time (Murphy’s Law) 😫
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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I have used a ratchet strap tie down to support the front of the trans the last time I did an engine change. Ran it from frame side to frame side. Worked very well.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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The 1955 Ford Car Shop Manual has step-by-step instructions for removing the engine without the transmission for a 1955 Thunderbird. The manual has been reproduced as is readily available from Classic Ford/Thunderbird parts suppliers.
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By oldcarmark - Last Month
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Ratchet Strap. I just did my 56 Fairlane using One to support Trans while Engine is out.
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By Big Tim - Last Month
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Perhaps this may work?
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
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By Hoosier Hurricane - Last Month
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I used a piece of 1x2 wood slightly longer than the width of the frame rails outside to outside and two pieces of all thread about a foot long, size doesn't matter, I think I used 5/16. About 1 inch from one end, bend the all thread a little more than 90 degrees. Hook these ends into the tooling holes on the insides of the frame rails near the front of the trans, put the all thread into appropriate holes in the board, put a flat washer and nut on the ends of the all thread, run the nuts up to support the front of the transmission where you want it, and all is well..
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Transmission jack. Mine has nylon straps to secure the transmission to the jack.
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Month
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55blacktie (7/23/2026)
The 1955 Ford Car Shop Manual has step-by-step instructions for removing the engine without the transmission for a 1955 Thunderbird. The manual has been reproduced as is readily available from Classic Ford/Thunderbird parts suppliers.
The shop manual instructions are rather confused, in that they direct removal of the clutch operating assembly parts, as if the bell-housing was being removed with engine (including trans. bolt torque #s), yet also direct the extraction of bell-housing bolts & dowels. Am I wrong, or can’t the block/clutch be removed/reinstalled without disturbing the throwout operating parts (?).
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By Ted - Last Month
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My preference to removing a Y engine from a standard transmission equipped car is to unbolt the four bolts that attach the bellhousing from the engine and disconnect the clutch Z-bar pivot from the block. The engine coming forward then allows the tranny with the bellhousing still attached to it to remain in the chassis. A jack under the transmission keeps it from dropping too much.
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Month
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oldcarmark (7/23/2026)
Ratchet Strap. I just did my 56 Fairlane using One to support Trans while Engine is out.
O.C.Mark,
Could you be more specific re: how the strap was rigged? I just wonder if the angle from the T-Bird frame rails would allow application of enough force to hold the trans. & bellhousing above the final crank/clutch position (?)
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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DANIEL TINDER (7/27/2026)
oldcarmark (7/23/2026)
Ratchet Strap. I just did my 56 Fairlane using One to support Trans while Engine is out. O.C.Mark,
Could you be more specific re: how the strap was rigged? I just wonder if the angle from the T-Bird frame rails would allow application of enough force to hold the trans. & bellhousing above the final crank/clutch position (?)
Don't cut corners when it comes to safety. Many years ago, my friend asked his father to help him work on his 55 Tri-Five. While his father was under the car, it fell on his head. Although he survived, he was never the same.
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By Vic Correnti - Last Month
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In my 55 bird I have used a chain under the trans and over the frame. I also use a block of wood between the floor tunnel and the end of the tailshaft to help hold the transmission from sagging down in the front.
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Month
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Vic Correnti (7/28/2026)
In my 55 bird I have used a chain under the trans and over the frame. I also use a block of wood between the floor tunnel and the end of the tailshaft to help hold the transmission from sagging down in the front.
Thanks Vic,
Wood block should help, especially if angle allows cranking the ratchet straps tighter and elevating the trans. shaft to ease engine engagement.
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