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‘55 Bird motor extract/install hoist dilemma….

Posted By DANIEL TINDER 4 Months Ago
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DANIEL TINDER
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Motor came out ok without help, but was a bit tricky due to the angle. Constant adjusting of hoist/trans jack heights & motor angle. Wouldn’t try installing the new one alone though.  Have to figure now about the spacers I found on the splines.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
55blacktie
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DANIEL TINDER (10/18/2026)
OK, OK, I give up!  At the very least, I wouldn’t want to risk the leaded joint at the cowl cracking. I just don’t see how ratchet straps could do the job otherwise. I’ll see if the floor jack can be operated from the side with the motor lifted slightly. If so, I guess I could hire some help to steady/move the engine & hoist, rather than push the car away myself.

My transmission jack has straps to secure the transmission to the jack and it has casters. If the transmission is secured to the jack, the jack should move with the car as long as it's on smooth, flat ground. However, I haven't put it to the test because I intend to remove and install the engine and transmission as one unit. 
DANIEL TINDER
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OK, OK, I give up!  At the very least, I wouldn’t want to risk the leaded joint at the cowl cracking. I just don’t see how ratchet straps could do the job otherwise. I’ll see if the floor jack can be operated from the side with the motor lifted slightly. If so, I guess I could hire some help to steady/move the engine & hoist, rather than push the car away myself.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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I am against using the fenders for anything other than holding a layer paint or a fender cover to simply be able to work over them.  Under no circumstances would I consider using them to be a support for removing or installing the engine.

Here are some links to other threads within this forum regarding the engine extraction and installation in the early Birds.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost163263.aspx 
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost113140.aspx 
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost120273.aspx 


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


KULTULZ
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"I need to support the weight from above, since a  jack likely not practical as I’ll be rolling the car back to free the hoisted engine."

Why will you be rolling the chassis back? Little room in your garage/shop?

You will be removing the hood and radiator?

The thought of supporting weight on the fenders scare the bejesus out of me.

Trans does not need seal work while apart?

CLICK HERE  -  https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-load-leveler-60659.html
 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/766762ff-9bd6-4403-8a0e-9de3.png





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Daniel, I believe you had concerns about a shop crane not raising the engine high enough to clear the nose. For what it's worth, I have a Harbor Freight shop crane and my F100 is much higher than the T- bird and it cleared the top radiator support. As the weight is being transferred to the crane and the body begins to rise, there should? be enough room for a floor jack to be placed in some fashion under the trans to support it. Raise the hoist a little then raise the jack a little and repeat,  until you can wheel the engine on crane back etc..  I would add that removing the hood would allow the head room needed to do this. Please don't get in a fight with gravity - stay safe....

64F100 57FAIRLANE500
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I think you are asking for trouble, but it is your car.  I hope it does not happen

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

DANIEL TINDER
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I wouldn’t try it on a modern car, but with enough padding, and especially since the weight will be half (other half on the firewall), I think the heavy gauge steel fenders shouldn’t bend. I need to support the weight from above, since a  jack likely not practical as I’ll be rolling the car back to free the hoisted engine. Since the body will rise when the weight comes off, a jack would need gradual height adjustment. How could I access it from the side with the body that low, or even still have it roll with the car?
I’m wondering if the rear support bracket bolts should likely be loosened a bit, so the trans will be more free to tip (?). I WILL need the jack once the engine is out, since I plan to replace the rear mount rubber, and the car will then be up on stands for that.
This is all pretty much new to me, as I haven’t pulled a motor in 65 years, and that one didn’t go well.😁 

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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If you have a decent floor jack - 

https://www.amazon.com/labwork-Transmission-Adapter-Capacity-Gearbox/dp/B0FB3RQ8GP?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5rhj4nIaj_B3V1_2U0q2Fes3KeR_Pnl3HAfjx0c0MYaSB5XtbWGWWQ_mwyAnqvjtsKjPOFyI4OSfACbYtzoXWQEHgVgXHCq9jUjnWgebfRTYi3DcwiWhTTZD7xjEbHavGI9yE-fGpBOQ-tbD_Q3j7P9DZSJ9UMncS-1JIfqLcjU9Yh2RYz_pQvrB9bNt5C7UgpL91grYV_tvCIBYgsvRDvmJz7iCq5V_WtQjKjR92UCxl0Ulmi1MAucvgiPoQ2AaqJRPuw_shrcOsQYQJ0qjxQzUk4UdnTKpkP_qOBM4ZeI.gm_l8uu6sGxS5jL16e4jZKDPI6LoGzS3F4LIgKy8uuU&dib_tag=se&keywords=transmission+floor+jack+adapter&qid=1792226302&sr=8-7



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55blacktie
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DANIEL TINDER (10/16/2026)
Since I’ll be hanging both the trans & bell housing, I’ll likely use double ratchet straps. One set connected from the bell housing to the hood release brackets screwed to the firewall, and the other connected set wrapped around the fenders and hooked to the frame. I figure if both sets are ratcheted tight once the motor’s weight is well off the mount, the bell housing should stay high enough up for the splines to easily engage the new engine/clutch assembly (?). The wood block would be a safety back-up.


Body work ain't cheap. 


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