I used the One that requires Caulking Gun to apply first Time. It was the quick dry One. Black. Now They have One in the Tube which is Black 90 Mins Dry. I would prefer to use the 90 Minute One IF the Formula is the same as fast Dry  except slower Dry Time. Gives more Time to work with it. As long as it will do the same Job as original Quick Dry One. I wanted to contact Permatex  and ask that Question but can't get into the Website. Maybe U can try and ask them that Question. Other than Drying Time are they both the Same Qualities?

  

Mark, did you use the "right stuff" product in the pressurized can to inject into the side seal grooves or was it the product in a tube? Thanks for sharing this method....

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

That's interesting that Someone would supply the "Right Stuff" instead of Side Seals. I really believe that most of the Leaks are NOT from the Crankshaft Seal but from the Side Seals. Not a great design in my opinion. Last Time I left the Cap a little loose to allow the Sealant to get to the mating Surface. This Time I will apply a small amount before installing the Cap to make sure the mating surfaces get sealed as an extra precaution against Leaks. I think the difference in Black and Grey is drying Time maybe?

  

I recently installed a rear main seal kit from Prestige Thunderbird.   They supply Permatex Grey to eliminate the side seals as you have done.  I haven't run the car yet to see how it works...................

When I pulled the Engine just after I  purchased the Car 7 Years ago I replaced the Rear Main Seal because Someone else tried using wrong Seal. I tried something that a couple of People suggested. Instead of using the original type Side Seals I used "The Right Stuff"  to fill the sides and loosened the retainer a litlle so some would get under the retainer. I have to tell You it worked well. No Leaks. And that "Right Stuff" really is durable. Trying to get the Retainer off now and having a Fight to do so. It will flex but not break loose. Have to use a knife and cut away at the side Gap. Anyway I will do the same fix when I re-assemble it. NO indication of Leak at all. I have been told that many of the rear Main leaks on Y Block are NOT the Seal itself but Side Seals.. This Fix seems to work well. Here is a Picture of Seal Retainer shows how "The Right Stuff" works as a replacement for Side Seals. This would not come off after the Bolts were removed. Continued to flex and adhere until I sliced through with a sharpened Putty Knife. No way for Oil to leak past this Seal. I will do same when I re-Assemble my Project.

  

I sent You a PM Paul. Let Me know? Thanks!

  

I purchased a Set of New Valves assuming I would need them. Bought the bigger Intakes and they are what is already in the Heads. Obviously Someone did the Heads before and put in bigger Valves.I am going to pull an Exhaust Valve and see if they put in hardened Seats. Save Me some Machine shop Costs.

  

239 heads and 1960-64 C0AE & C1AE heads had the smallest (1.64) intake valves. Did you measure yours to confirm that they are the largest (1.92) valves? 1955 & 56 heads, including your ECZ-C heads, had 1.78 intake valves. All Ford & Mercury Y-blocks had the same size exhaust valves. According to Ted, the exhaust side flowed well enough that it wasn't necessary to increase the valve size as the displacement increased. 

Thanks Paul. I would assume Someone did the Heads and installed the bigger Intake valves which is what I planned to do anyway. Have to see if the Exhaust Ones had hardened Seats installed . Be nice if they were already done.

  

Check the John Mummert site for lots of information on the Y-Blocks including casting numbers. http://www.ford-y-block.com/cylinderheadchart.htm



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire