Hello Members   Hopefully  will  be getting  VR S/C 292 engine going this winter.  Any members have any options or comments on using A/F gauge for getting carb (converted Lincoln teapot)  jetting  and checking right?  Have jetting now set at factory S/C spec. don't want to go lean.  

There's a YouTube guy named Muscle Car Solutions who has a video or two about A/F Wide Band usage.  

Maybe read and cipher here - https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/the-carb-cheater-revolutionizing-carburetor-tuning-for-classic-car-enthusiasts/

The cost of a system is not cheap. If you decide to go this route, consider a dueling O2 SENSOR setup to read both banks.

Is it going to an engine dyno for break-in? A chassis dyno ($$$) will allow you to dial it in. Depends on how far you want to take it.

Please let the board know your decision and outcome (with photos).

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Assuming the engine is in good condition, you can get away with using a single O2 Sensor in the exhaust.  I have had issues in the past with two A/F sensors not reading the same and that will have you chasing your tail.  Always install those A/F sensors in the upper half of the exhaust pipe so that moisture does not collect in them.

For general tuning I like 14.0-14.5 A/F at idle and 12.5-12.7 A/F for full throttle when using gasoline with no more than 5% ethanol.  Most premium grade fuel in my area has 3-5% ethanol.  Cruise A/F numbers will depend entirely upon the load and speed of the engine but should always fall between the two previous stated ranges.  For flat level ground and minimal load, I prefer the cruise A/F values to be between 13.5 and 14.2 A/F.

It's normal to see some quirky A/F numbers when making sudden throttle changes but they are expected to level out in the desired range rather quickly.  The model 4000 Holley’s (Teapots) will tend to have a lean condition just as the secondaries start opening so just be cognizant of that.  Also of note is that the model 4000 Holley’s did not have any idle enrichment to compensate for the addition of a PCV valve.  Just something else to adjust for.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks for replies. There will be no dyno.   Fella i bought S/C from  (in 57 skyliner) burnt holes in pistons when still under warranty, said the new  engine never ran as fast. One F code racer told he thought factory jetting was to rich (?)  I have also  been told 30 degrees total advance max. will start there.

When using a Lincoln Teapot carburetor for the Paxton supercharger applications, I find it necessary to ‘boost reference’ the underside of the secondary diaphragm.  To do that, I add a tube to the carburetor that will pressurize the bottom side of the diaphragm when boost pressure is present.  This allows the vacuum secondaries to function as designed regardless if there is boost pressure or not.  If there is no boost reference to the lower side of the secondary diaphragm, then the boost pressure itself will keep the secondaries from opening by bleeding into the venturi port for the secondaries.  I trust all of that made sense.  The ‘single screw’ small flat cover that allows access to the secondary linkage under the diaphragm must also be modified so that it’s air tight.

If the secondaries do not open when going into ‘boost’, then the likelihood of the engine running ‘very’ lean is high along with the engine performance also being on the low side.  Here’s a picture showing the added ‘boost’ tube on a modified List #1094 Lincoln carb.

 
I am assuming at this point that you also have a ‘boost referenced’ fuel pump for your setup.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thank you Ted  very much for info.  That was just what iI was hoping for. 

Ted didn't notice the second part of your reply.  Yes I did  made  a line ( and a cover to seal) to secondary  housing but from where the choke intake tube line would normally go. I was to chicken to bore a angled hole (and hit it) into secondary vacuum passage. Plan on using a  14 pound electric pump with a  boost referenced regulator and overflow  line back to tank.  Pat  F rebuild S/C and used his info jetting.  Thanks again for tips.

Sorry hit  reply button twice.                        Ted didn't notice the second part of your reply.  Yes I did  made  a line ( and a cover to seal) to secondary  housing but from where the choke intake tube line would normally go. I was to chicken to bore a angled hole (and hit it) into secondary vacuum passage. Plan on using a  14 pound electric pump with a  boost referenced regulator and overflow  line back to tank.  Pat  F rebuild S/C and used his info jetting.  Thanks again for tips.