I recently installed a new kit in my Holley 4 barrel with manual choke and roughly 450 CFM. I noticed now that pulling the choke out after a cool or cold start kills the motor immediately. It did not do that before the rebuild. I hope someone can advise me on what adjustments to make. The motor is a 292.

could be choke cable too close to coil and short it out ?


1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes.
1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip!
1977 Ford F-250 Supercab RWD Explorer Long box.
1976 Chev Camaro RS LT
Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1

Thanks, but I think I have solved the problem by adjusting in the fast idle screw. It now steps up the idle while closing the choke blades. Not much info on line on Holly carbs with manual choke. 

On the 4160/4150 style 4V Holleys, the idle is supposed to be controlled by the secondary butterflies.  They should be open ~.018-020" with the primary butterflies fully closed.  The idle circuit slot will become visible as you open the secondaries, and the slot will look nearly square when you have the required .020" showing.  You adjust that with the arm on the side of the secondary shaft where it hits the base plate.  If your carb base plate has a tiny set screw there you adjust the opening with that screw, otherwise you bend the tang to set the proper clearance.   You set the idle with the vacuum advance line disconnected, and the throttle blade screw set so that the primary doesn't bind at fully closed position.  Adjust the choke linkage so that it sits in the first indent when you start opening the choke and after it is fully warmed up you can push the cable fully in to the open position.  Only then can you adjust the primary throttle set screw for the final idle speed you desire.  It should idle perfectly with the primary throttle blades closed if the secondary gap is correct. If it idles too fast close it down to .018" and try it again.  If still too fast close it to .016", but if the carb is clean everywhere that should be unnecessary.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Thanks  Joe  Learned something new.  Any new on your latest YB  build with AL heads? 

Thank you Joe as my head is still spinning . I will try your method today after after following on line tutorials that tell you to close the secondary butterflies and open the primaries to make the rectangular slot square. I do have a question on setting the manual choke. When you say the first indent, do you mean the top or bottom step with the carb facing upright.  By the way, I think I have been loosing the adjustment on my idle slot by adjusting the curb idle screw last after warmup. Also the sweetspot on my idle mixture screws has been between 1/2 to 3/4 turn. 

The 312 made 458 hp.  Didn't do a lot of tuning or manifold changes to try to get the last horsepower out of the build.  I just went back on the dyno Monday with the 292 +.060 and it made 437 hp with iron heads and BT with 650 QF carb.  Tried the Single plane on it, but no real difference in power for this particular combination.  I am a bit stumped on this combination since these iron heads flow about 20-25 cfm more than the EMC heads, but make less power but nearly 30 lb/ft more torque.  A 292 making 422 lb/ft is strong with iron heads.  Joe-JDC

JDC

As you push the choke cable in to shut off the choke, there is normally an indent on the linkage just before fully open.  That can be adjusted to keep the idle speed up a bit longer helping with less air which will keep the mixture rich until you push the cable fully in and open the choke blade.  Cable knob out all the way, blade fully closed.  Cable now going in almost all the way, blade stops just before fully open at that detent if it is there on your particular set-up.  Hope this makes sense.  Joe-JDC

JDC