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EXHAUST PORT SIZE

Posted By Litshoot 2 Weeks Ago
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DANIEL TINDER
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55blacktie (12/7/2024)
I was pretty conservative with the porting-took my time, looked at lots of photos (including John Mummert's cutaway views), and did a lot of reading as well. However, I'm a long-time believer in Murphy's Law. I'll be celebrating my 70th birthday (maybe "celebrating" isn't the best choice of words) next month. It's a little late in life to start being optimistic.  


Interesting how attitudes change with aging.  Along with ‘Murphy’s Law’. as I near 80, I’ve also embraced the ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’ philosophy. Back in my ‘nit-picking’ days (when I didn’t have more projects than I could finish), I bought all the tools and CC matched a set of G heads. Since I already had the equipment, I considered doing some porting also, but since I wasn’t building a race motor, the thought of ruining all my previous work dissuaded me.


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
Joe-JDC
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When you regrind a camshaft, the lifter will sit lower in the bore, and the original lifters are marginally short as is.  If you try to get close to .500" lift, you may find the lifters will want to cock sideways and ruin your day.  Just a caution.  A regrind with minimal metal removal would be different, but to regrind for lift and then regrind the lifter face, you have made the problem more likely to surface.  Just my cautionary advice.  I went with Trend tool steel lifters +.100" longer when I use a custom camshaft with over .550" lift.  Joe-JDC

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Litshoot
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I was actually thinking of trying to pick profiles and have a cam and lifters reground by oregon. They can do 108 lc looking under .480-.500 valve lift And the shortest duration that nets
Good overlap. Im curious about shorter exhaust duration as read some positives on lower rpm
55blacktie
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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I was pretty conservative with the porting-took my time, looked at lots of photos (including John Mummert's cutaway views), and did a lot of reading as well. However, I'm a long-time believer in Murphy's Law. I'll be celebrating my 70th birthday (maybe "celebrating" isn't the best choice of words) next month. It's a little late in life to start being optimistic.  
Joe-JDC
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Sorry to cause you to worry.  I have ported dozens of Y block heads, and I have only made holes in about 3 heads over the last 14 years working on the Ys. I was trying to get every cfm possible out of the -G heads when that hole happened.  That head was for the EMC competition, and was welded, sealed, and went on to make 467hp before being removed for another set of heads.  Most any competent machine shop should be able to pressure test the heads for you at a charge.  Joe-JDC

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55blacktie
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Joe, although necessary, I wish you hadn't posted the photo; now I'm worried. Is there a way to test the heads for leaks before they are installed and put into service?
Joe-JDC
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I am not a fan of CCams for the Y due to a fiasco I had with a custom grind from them that was a total failure.  They do not understand the lifter angle of the Y block vs the lifter angle of the SBC, or other make of engines.  They are different, and if you need to advance or retard the camshaft, the lobes will be completely off their respective degrees needed for the advance or retard.  The only way the CC would degree was installed straight up(what many folks call dot to dot) which is at the 3 o'clock position on the Y block gear set and 12 pins between.  Isky makes several different grinds for the Y that can be had from mild to wild.  Check with Ted for a possible performance Isky upgrade.  I know camshaft blanks are difficult to find right now, so CC may not even be able to grind you a cam.  Joe-JDC

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Litshoot
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Cam I'm thinking of a comp thumper style cam. Not the greatest but compromise sound and street abilities. 8:1 is single collector with all 8 tubes in sequence. Gives some interesting results, similar to 180° headers, without changing the idle sound.

I've read Ted's articles and also pretty sure the 11 page post recommended more than once. My comcern is im not using as stout of a setup so not sure how to compare is setup to a lesser built engine. I was looking into the 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 fender headers from the test because of style and fitment before getting side tracked with 8:1. Figure ive got 12 feet of 3d printed snap together pie cuts to mock up let's see how far it can go.
Ted
Posted 3 Weeks Ago
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Here’s the link to the Ford Y-Blk header test as published in The Y-Block Magazine.
Ford Y-Block Exhaust Testing – Eaton Balancing

And here’s the link to some of the posts made on this site during the testing.  Be forwarned that this particular thread is about eleven pages long.
Exhaust test to end all tests? 


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Joe-JDC
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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It is difficult to explain porting to someone who is a beginner, but don't remove the metal on the upper port between the guide and the exit of the port.  You will find water very quickly there.  Squaring up the exit is not necessary, either.  Leave the angle corner alone and just clean up the slag in the port and blend the valve job above and below the seats.  Less is more with this head.  Joe-JDChttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/55ef2155-05d3-47a6-9694-1d68.jpg

JDC


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