Time got the better of me but I finally managed to get the engine running tonight! 😁 Thanks for all the help!!

The Holley was refreshed / cleaned but the float was not set correctly and two out of the five check balls where missing when I went through the carburettor. I'm no expert but my spark plugs where black so I cleaned them up, added some fresh fuel and it took alight.

I still have not checked for vacuum but I did test the fuel and running at 5 Psi, is that a bit high?

I can not seem to get the RPM to 450 at idle, without it going real lump or feeling like the engine will stall. Is 750 to 800 RPMs to high for idle?

Is the vacuum test done with the line between the carburettor and distributor? What exactly am I looking for with the vacuum test.

Thanks 🙏 
I'm so happy.

I still have not checked for vacuum but I did test the fuel and running at 5 Psi, is that a bit high?

I can not seem to get the RPM to 450 at idle, without it going real lump or feeling like the engine will stall. Is 750 to 800 RPMs to high for idle?

Is the vacuum test done with the line between the carburettor and distributor? What exactly am I looking for with the vacuum test.

Sounds like the re-builder did you no favors.

Black soot (dry, not wet) on plugs indicates running rich (or wrong heat range - too cold).

The proper pump pressure will be found in the WSM (FUEL SECT. - SPECIFICATIONS).

CURB IDLE is set with the car in gear (be careful here - chock the car).

The VACUUM GAUGE needs to connect directly to the intake manifold.

If I missed anything, yell out.

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Missed two important things (I am old) -

The car has the LOAD-O-MATIC IGN. You need to ensure the DIST VACUUM DIAPHRAGM holds vacuum and the IGN ADVANCE works correctly (watch for timing advance with timing light on the damper ring).

If valve adj. is needed, it should show on the manifold vacuum test.

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I am back again, and thanks for the guidance a,..

I havenave managed to get the car reliably starting ( not so much Running though ), only when I do not start it for more than 3 to 4 days I have to pump the throttle up to two or three times to get her going.

I did run a vacuum gauge by removing one of the steel tube vacuum lines that runs to the mechanical fuel pump. It has a tapered nose I shoved into the hole, not to sure now sealed it is.
Anyhow at idle it is showing 20 to 22 vacuum at the manifold, the needle  chatters a point or two up and down, but when I pinch the vacuum hose it does steady and not move.
Looking at that diagram you sent Kultulz i can say when I snap the throttle that the needle drops to 3 - 1 then Bounces back up to 25 - 27 before settling to 21 mark. I can't get accurate numbers as the needle chatters if I don't pinch it slightly.


Also my plugs are carbon fouling, its currently not affecting the car in starting. But I am wondering what I could do to fix that? Does the car need to be under load or actually driving instead of been idling and it is revving in neutral? I just changed the auto choke setting to make it a little leaner so j could run the car for a bit and  maybe it will make them cleaner?.

Lastly when I did my timing light check I removed the vacuum from the carburettor and it is bang on 5 degrees BTDC. I assume i hook it back up and check for ignition advance. Ill check that out tomorrow I guess.
Hopefully i am capable enough to try and tune it some more, when I try to bring its revolution down once cold idle is over, I can't seem to bring it lower than 600rpm without the engine wanting to turn off.

LOVING thus journey so far! Thanks 

"I did run a vacuum gauge by removing one of the steel tube vacuum lines that runs to the mechanical fuel pump. It has a tapered nose I shoved into the hole, not to sure now sealed it is.

Anyhow at idle it is showing 20 to 22 vacuum at the manifold, the needle  chatters a point or two up and down, but when I pinch the vacuum hose it does steady and not move."

You need a good connection for the vacuum gauge.

The needed specs for calibrating the carb to OEM specs are in the WSM FUEL SECT - SPECS. You need to bring it to spec and then you can tune/modify from that point. Again, check the SPEC called for fuel pressure. Do you have ethanol gasoline there?

If you cleaned the plugs and they fuel fouled again, either the float setting/jet sizes are incorrect, the choke may be adjusted too rich (or not functioning correctly), they are the wrong heat range or the IGN is not hot enough to burn them.

The combustion chamber will be carbon fouled also (along with the exhaust system) so once running it will need a hard run on the outback.

Now -

Just seeing rear of the car shows it as being a beauty.

So -

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As K said, you need a better manifold connection. The dual action fuel pump is to provide vacuum to the wipers under heavy load. But if you only seeing a 2-3 lb flicker, you’re probably going to be ok.

Many carbs are sensible to fuel pressure, and not necessarily just that they flood and overflow. A little bit too much pressure will raise the float level, and that can cause a rich idle or run condition. I went thru that on one of mine due to an altitude change when shipped to another location. It was a modern Holley, and I could lower the level slightly with external adjustments. That’s how I learned that lesson. Would have better to reset the pressure regulator, but I didn’t have the gauges etc. to do that in the new location.

Sounds like you have a good engine to work with, keep after it. Nice ride.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Well, you can take the reading from the manifold vacuum signal line to the vacuum pump. Just separate the line from the rubber hose connector @ the pump (not after the pump - may be a defect in the vacuum pump) and connect the vacuum gauge hose.

The needle must read steady for a healthy engine - 

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Wow what an engine bay! Mine is very dirty.

Is the steering gear a manual one? Do you know if it would work with my 55 Lincoln, my power steering pump and siginaw gear is leaking like a siv.
I'll hopefully make some more progress soon and report back. Yes I did plumb into the vacuum line before the fuel pump so the reading should be accurate. I'll have to make a connection as all my lines be it fuel or vacuum are all steel tubing not rubber.

So reading the WSM fuel section I need to really understand and test seven key systems; (going to need a game plan)

- main metering system
- the idle system
- power valve system
- the accelerator pump system
- vacuum operated secondary system
- fuel inlet system
- and lastly the auto choke.

In regards to fuel I use 98RON which should have little to no Ethanol in it.

Here are some dirty quick photos I took. Enjoy!! 
  





And here is what I'm hoping to put in one day. Still missing a critical bracket 37384. And obviously I need a good running engine hahahaha.

That is going to be a beautiful ride -

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If you study the vacuum gauge interpretation chart I posted, you will see it will pickup problems with the carburetor.


CLICK HERE  - https://www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/082001_05.pdf

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