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By Yianni - Last Year
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Hello Y Block Forever,
Just want to thank you all for the great topics on here, have read a lot of useful information.
My names John bought myself an original 55 cashmere coral Lincoln project, early mid life crisis and 3 girls will do that to you. Hah Blessed!
I purchased the car wanting to learn about them, so i started with the basics as best i could; (bought a repair manual)
- oil changed
- sparks plugs changed
- leads replaced
- fuel tank and sender rebuilt
- mechanical fuel pump rebuilt (poorly still has a droplet every now and then)
- holley 4000 cleaned and rebuilt with gasket kit.
I did re do the spark plug leads and run them the correct way and re stabbed the distributor, managed to get the car to respond to throttle input.
Car did run for awhile, to my surprise instantaneously (being 6v) it would fire up and soon as the start button was pressed, managed to warm the car up a couple of times and run a timing light, bring it to 5 degrees before TDC. Was giving the car some throttle while on the jack stands did push through all the debris and build up in the exhaust, a piece of metal shot out and hit the wife's car : /
Last thing i tried to fix was the master cylinder and booster, which i butchered and believe i sucked the Dot fluid into the intake manifold? The exhaust did blow white smoke out of it. Did i hurt the engine?
Or have i done something more serious like a head gasket?
Car sits a week at a time and just does not want to start. I am running 95 or 98 RON fuel. It does ignite and spin faster when igniting but splutters and spurts but won't maintain idle. Even with start your bastard it just does not want to come to life and maintain Idle.
I am stumped, have been trying for weeks to figure this out.
 
Thanks,
John
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By KULTULZ - Last Year
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(bought a repair manual)
Is it a 1955 LINC WORKSHOP MANUAL or a DIY MANUAL?
The FORD MANUAL will have diagnostic routines that will help greatly.
Ingesting brake fluid should cause no harm. You have the TREADLE-VAC MASTER CYLINDER-BOOSTER SYSTEM which is a little more complicated. Maybe best to send it off and have done professionally.
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By paul2748 - Last Year
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Might want to send out that carb to a professional and have it rebuilt.
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By MoonShadow - Last Year
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Nice looking Lincoln by the way.
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By Robs36Ford - Last Year
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Does it use vacuum for the booster ? Try unplugging the vacuum hose to the brake booster and plug the intake side ? Then try starting it.
It might be leaking vacuum so much it would make it tough to idle much less to start ?
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By Yianni - Last Year
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Thank you all for the response.
I have not had a chance yet to trial some of the suggestions. I do own a Linc 1954 with 1955 supplements repair and adjustment manual.
Which Ford manual in particular should i be acquiring, one from the same year? I have purchased a motors manual that dates from 1930s to 1960s American still waiting for it to ship to Australia. I have never touched a car or been inside an engine bay prior to this car. So any information i can get my hands on will help out tremendously.
Is there anything i can spray around the fittings and hoses to check for vacuum leaks? Should it be non flammable?
- The teapot was sent off for a clean inspection and rebuild by a professional.
- The treadle vac was also rebuilt by a specialist, and can confirm it works well, needed a bore and sleeve in the master cylinder and the leather diaphragm that wraps the piston needed to be soaked in linseed oil and brought back to life after sitting for so long. Oh and yes the treadle vac is vacuum assisted. I will try plugging it.
- Would anyone know where i would be able to get a replacement if i ever needed the diaphragm in the future?
I also need help with the power steering gear, it leaks everywhere, looks really complicated. I wouldn't know where to start. Is there a lip seal and bearing kit for something like that. Or is there any straight up bolt on replacement?
Regards,
John
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By KULTULZ - Last Year
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"I do own a Linc 1954 with 1955 supplements repair and adjustment manual.
Which Ford manual in particular should i be acquiring, one from the same year? I have purchased a motors manual that dates from 1930s to 1960s American still waiting for it to ship to Australia.
I have never touched a car or been inside an engine bay prior to this car. So any information i can get my hands on will help out tremendously."
You have the correct manual (LINC). The trouble is they are written mainly for a trained tech. The MOTORS MANUAL may simplify things for you.
If you have no automotive experience, do they offer COMMUNITY COLLEGE courses down there that will introduce you to basic knowledge?
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By Yianni - Last Year
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No i do not believe they offer any thing like a community college here where i would be able to learn the basics, technology is free though so i have been reading up a bit on the forums, youtube helps, and i do have a couple friend mechanics that i speak to.
One of the coolest things where i got some basic understandings was watching Chrysler master tech videos, does ford or Lincoln have anything like that? They really are cool to learn from.
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By KULTULZ - Last Year
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"One of the coolest things where i got some basic understandings was watching Chrysler master tech videos, does ford or Lincoln have anything like that? They really are cool to learn from".
If you GOOGLE AUTO REPAIR or CLASSIC CARS, you should come across much information.
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By KULTULZ - Last Year
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"... bought myself an original 55 cashmere coral Lincoln project, early mid life crisis and 3 girls will do that to you.
I purchased the car wanting to learn about them, so i started with the basics as best i could; (bought a repair manual)
- oil changed
- sparks plugs changed
- leads replaced
- fuel tank and sender rebuilt
- mechanical fuel pump rebuilt (poorly still has a droplet every now and then)
- holley 4000 cleaned and rebuilt with gasket kit.
I did re do the spark plug leads and run them the correct way and re stabbed the distributor, managed to get the car to respond to throttle input".
So the car idled then began to stumble?
You need (IMO) a combination fuel pressure/vacuum gauge to check for vacuum leak(s), etc. The fuel pressure gauge will show if pressure and volume are correct. When checking for vacuum leaks and it shows such, remove and plug any vacuum supply line (one at a time) (such as booster) to see if the needle steady's.
Using your timing light, see if there is timing advance at the balancer/harmonic ring index.
Has the engine been gone through at any period?
As for ingesting small amounts of brake fluid, it should have no ill effect, Remove and block the booster lead until she idles somewhat correctly and then go on to the MC/BOOSTER repair.
Maybe this will help.
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By Yianni - 2 Months Ago
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Time got the better of me but I finally managed to get the engine running tonight! 😁 Thanks for all the help!!
The Holley was refreshed / cleaned but the float was not set correctly and two out of the five check balls where missing when I went through the carburettor. I'm no expert but my spark plugs where black so I cleaned them up, added some fresh fuel and it took alight.
I still have not checked for vacuum but I did test the fuel and running at 5 Psi, is that a bit high?
I can not seem to get the RPM to 450 at idle, without it going real lump or feeling like the engine will stall. Is 750 to 800 RPMs to high for idle?
Is the vacuum test done with the line between the carburettor and distributor? What exactly am I looking for with the vacuum test.
Thanks 🙏
I'm so happy.
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By KULTULZ - 2 Months Ago
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I still have not checked for vacuum but I did test the fuel and running at 5 Psi, is that a bit high?
I can not seem to get the RPM to 450 at idle, without it going real lump or feeling like the engine will stall. Is 750 to 800 RPMs to high for idle?
Is the vacuum test done with the line between the carburettor and distributor? What exactly am I looking for with the vacuum test.
Sounds like the re-builder did you no favors.
Black soot (dry, not wet) on plugs indicates running rich (or wrong heat range - too cold).
The proper pump pressure will be found in the WSM (FUEL SECT. - SPECIFICATIONS).
CURB IDLE is set with the car in gear (be careful here - chock the car).
The VACUUM GAUGE needs to connect directly to the intake manifold.
If I missed anything, yell out.
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By KULTULZ - 2 Months Ago
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Missed two important things (I am old) -
The car has the LOAD-O-MATIC IGN. You need to ensure the DIST VACUUM DIAPHRAGM holds vacuum and the IGN ADVANCE works correctly (watch for timing advance with timing light on the damper ring).
If valve adj. is needed, it should show on the manifold vacuum test.
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By Yianni - Last Month
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I am back again, and thanks for the guidance a,..
I havenave managed to get the car reliably starting ( not so much Running though ), only when I do not start it for more than 3 to 4 days I have to pump the throttle up to two or three times to get her going.
I did run a vacuum gauge by removing one of the steel tube vacuum lines that runs to the mechanical fuel pump. It has a tapered nose I shoved into the hole, not to sure now sealed it is.
Anyhow at idle it is showing 20 to 22 vacuum at the manifold, the needle chatters a point or two up and down, but when I pinch the vacuum hose it does steady and not move.
Looking at that diagram you sent Kultulz i can say when I snap the throttle that the needle drops to 3 - 1 then Bounces back up to 25 - 27 before settling to 21 mark. I can't get accurate numbers as the needle chatters if I don't pinch it slightly.
Also my plugs are carbon fouling, its currently not affecting the car in starting. But I am wondering what I could do to fix that? Does the car need to be under load or actually driving instead of been idling and it is revving in neutral? I just changed the auto choke setting to make it a little leaner so j could run the car for a bit and maybe it will make them cleaner?.
Lastly when I did my timing light check I removed the vacuum from the carburettor and it is bang on 5 degrees BTDC. I assume i hook it back up and check for ignition advance. Ill check that out tomorrow I guess.
Hopefully i am capable enough to try and tune it some more, when I try to bring its revolution down once cold idle is over, I can't seem to bring it lower than 600rpm without the engine wanting to turn off.
LOVING thus journey so far! Thanks
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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"I did run a vacuum gauge by removing one of the steel tube vacuum lines that runs to the mechanical fuel pump. It has a tapered nose I shoved into the hole, not to sure now sealed it is.
Anyhow at idle it is showing 20 to 22 vacuum at the manifold, the needle chatters a point or two up and down, but when I pinch the vacuum hose it does steady and not move."
You need a good connection for the vacuum gauge.
The needed specs for calibrating the carb to OEM specs are in the WSM FUEL SECT - SPECS. You need to bring it to spec and then you can tune/modify from that point. Again, check the SPEC called for fuel pressure. Do you have ethanol gasoline there?
If you cleaned the plugs and they fuel fouled again, either the float setting/jet sizes are incorrect, the choke may be adjusted too rich (or not functioning correctly), they are the wrong heat range or the IGN is not hot enough to burn them.
The combustion chamber will be carbon fouled also (along with the exhaust system) so once running it will need a hard run on the outback.
Now -
Just seeing rear of the car shows it as being a beauty.
So -
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By miker - Last Month
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As K said, you need a better manifold connection. The dual action fuel pump is to provide vacuum to the wipers under heavy load. But if you only seeing a 2-3 lb flicker, you’re probably going to be ok.
Many carbs are sensible to fuel pressure, and not necessarily just that they flood and overflow. A little bit too much pressure will raise the float level, and that can cause a rich idle or run condition. I went thru that on one of mine due to an altitude change when shipped to another location. It was a modern Holley, and I could lower the level slightly with external adjustments. That’s how I learned that lesson. Would have better to reset the pressure regulator, but I didn’t have the gauges etc. to do that in the new location.
Sounds like you have a good engine to work with, keep after it. Nice ride.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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Well, you can take the reading from the manifold vacuum signal line to the vacuum pump. Just separate the line from the rubber hose connector @ the pump (not after the pump - may be a defect in the vacuum pump) and connect the vacuum gauge hose.
- 1956 FYB SHOWN -
The needle must read steady for a healthy engine -
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By Yianni - Last Month
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Wow what an engine bay! Mine is very dirty.
Is the steering gear a manual one? Do you know if it would work with my 55 Lincoln, my power steering pump and siginaw gear is leaking like a siv.
I'll hopefully make some more progress soon and report back. Yes I did plumb into the vacuum line before the fuel pump so the reading should be accurate. I'll have to make a connection as all my lines be it fuel or vacuum are all steel tubing not rubber.
So reading the WSM fuel section I need to really understand and test seven key systems; (going to need a game plan)
- main metering system
- the idle system
- power valve system
- the accelerator pump system
- vacuum operated secondary system
- fuel inlet system
- and lastly the auto choke.
In regards to fuel I use 98RON which should have little to no Ethanol in it.
Here are some dirty quick photos I took. Enjoy!!   
And here is what I'm hoping to put in one day. Still missing a critical bracket 37384. And obviously I need a good running engine hahahaha.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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That is going to be a beautiful ride -
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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If you study the vacuum gauge interpretation chart I posted, you will see it will pickup problems with the carburetor.
CLICK HERE - https://www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/082001_05.pdf
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