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RossL
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Daniel Jessup (11/23/2024)
100% agree with Kultulz, have found the exact same problems when using E10 gasoline. Interestingly enough, I recently posted this video https://youtu.be/W88wjkI7UJE. (Aviation gasoline in my 1955 Ford Fairlane, 292 Y Block, Summit Carburetor, mechanical fuel pump) I ran aviation gasoline for a few months in my old Ford just for kicks and gave a report on what I found. That all may be old news for some, but I enjoyed doing it and learned a lot on my own. One of the benefits of running fuel that has no ethanol is that you do not have the issues of fuel boiling/evaporating out of the carburetor bowls. The engine fires right up every time. Plus, I can let the car sit as long as I want to (within reason) - that gasoline's formula has some longevity and does not break down easily. It is certainly not formulated to run in automotive engines but you can do it in a pinch. Very hard to find non ethanol fuel in NJ. Last trime I looked there might have been a handful of stations selling it and none were close to me
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paul2748
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All these problems that people are talking about, I don't understand. I've used 10 % for maybe 30 years . Here in NJ it is about the only thing you can get. Never, never, experienced any of the problems mentioned other than having to crank the engine a little more after it has been sitting a while. The fuel I put in in October still starts the car ok in April WITH NO ADDITIVES LIKE sta bil or sea foam. In fact, my son, who had a street rod, used Sta Bill one year and it completely fouled up the carb.. Never had a problem before and after that happened.
I know enough that rubber parts have to be the type for ethanol or you have problems but that should be way in the past by now. since it has been mentioned tons of times.
Does the car run as efficiently with 10 %. For all I have heard, no, but is there that much difference. ?
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312 Forever Ford Midland Park, NJ
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miker
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Paul, in most cases my experience is the same. But I’ve had a couple exceptions. My standby generator plugged up from the ethanol rotting the fuel hose. No doubt about it. The carb was full of rubber particles and a q tip in the hose looked like it was dipped in liquid rubber.
But I’ve also had a modern EFI engine lay down over 5000 rpm (small motor. 7500 redline). Fresh fuel cured it, and my F code clone, down in Tucson was worse. 4 months over the hot summer, it wouldn’t idle. It’s got the bonnet for the blower, choke milled off, kind of got to wet it down and then turn the ignition on. It would start, but wouldn’t idle without turning the screw up. Again, fresh fuel cured it immediately.
So I think the ethanol problem varies a bit with environment, both humidity and temperatures.
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
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ian57tbird
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I prime my carb, pouring a little fuel onto the secondary butterflies before I start, if the Tbird has been sitting for more than a week. I even lift the bonnet/hood when I park it back in the workshop after a run, but that doesn't help. It's not just ethanol, because we don't have it in our fuel. I was putting it down to the 465cfm Holley with the vent on the bowl.
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HazardTBird
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KULTULZ (11/21/2024)
An electric primer pump is the easiest way out. If initiated by a toggle switch, use a spring loaded return to OFF position in case you forget. Ku;tulz: That's a good idea, left mine on before
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alanfreeman
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I don't know how much ethanol is in the gasoline in California but in the 40+ years that I have owned 50's Fords and Mercurys I have always had to prime the carburetors of these cars to start them after they sit for more than a few days, even before ethanol was being added. I have two cars with "modern" Holley carbs, one with a stock Holley "teapot" 4 bbl. and one with a stock Holley 2 bbl. The cars with the "modern" Holleys seem to start O.K. even after sitting for a week or so but need to be primed after sitting 1-2 weeks. The two cars with the original carbs always need to be primed to start after sitting more than a few days. All of my cars have stock original type AC mechanical dual action fuel pumps, a couple of them installed decades ago and I have never had a problem with fuel pump failure. I just accept that my cars usually need to be primed after they sit between start ups and they always fire right up on the 1st or second crank.
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RossL
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alanfreeman (11/25/2024)
I don't know how much ethanol is in the gasoline in California but in the 40+ years that I have owned 50's Fords and Mercurys I have always had to prime the carburetors of these cars to start them after they sit for more than a few days, even before ethanol was being added. I have two cars with "modern" Holley carbs, one with a stock Holley "teapot" 4 bbl. and one with a stock Holley 2 bbl. The cars with the "modern" Holleys seem to start O.K. even after sitting for a week or so but need to be primed after sitting 1-2 weeks. The two cars with the original carbs always need to be primed to start after sitting more than a few days. All of my cars have stock original type AC mechanical dual action fuel pumps, a couple of them installed decades ago and I have never had a problem with fuel pump failure. I just accept that my cars usually need to be primed after they sit between start ups and they always fire right up on the 1st or second crank. From my observation It looks like the Teapot might not hold as much fuel as a modern carb. I never measured how my much it holds but the float bowl appears to be smaller than an Edelbrock. I've got enough to do so if this is "normal" I am not going to sweat it. I am just used to having my cars start as soon as I turn the ignition to the start position unless they are sitting for a could of weeks.... This carb seems to need extra cranking after a few days
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alanfreeman
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I don't even bother cranking my starter and running my battery down on any of my cars that have been sitting for more than a few days. As a routine, I just prime the carbs with a little gas, reinstall the air cleaner and they always start right up.
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RossL
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From a tech at Daytona Carb Parts:
It is a common problem with modern gasoline. It evaporates rapidly, and after a day or two there is no gas in the float bowl, or the fuel line from the pump. There is no cure for this issue; however by changing your method of starting the engine, you can try this. After the vehicle has set for a day or two, DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL! Turn on the ignition switch, and then crank the engine over for 10-15 seconds. It will not hurt the starter, but allow the fuel pump time to refill the float bowl on the carburetor. Then give the gas pedal a pump or two and usually it will start right up. Also, make sure that you are NOT using the mechanical pump with a electric pump as a booster, or have any kind of fuel filter before the fuel pump! This is a NO-NO, and will cause issues. Also, the use of modern "high octane 91" gas will make the matter worse, as it has a very low boiling point and will evaporate faster. Your engine does NOT require any kind of modern high octane gasoline, and will run fine on normal 87 octane.
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KULTULZ
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