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Valley Cover oil leak

Posted By Brent 4 days ago
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Brent
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My Mummert valley cover is leaking oil. I have been snugging the bolts after runs and am at the point that I have to ask: Since I can’t use a torque wrench, how tight can I go? Or have I gone to tight already, I’m up to applying moderate force using a 1/2” box wrench.



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.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci
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darrell
Posted 4 days ago
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i always put a bead of sealer on them before i sit them on and never have a leak.these are the factory ones.but thats not helping you any now.

KULTULZ
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"My Mummert valley cover is leaking oil. I have been snugging the bolts after runs and am at the point that I have to ask: Since I can’t use a torque wrench, how tight can I go? Or have I gone to tight already, I’m up to applying moderate force using a 1/2” box wrench."

So the problem is the cap screws are continually backing out?

You are going to have to beg, borrow or steal a proper torque wrench. I would imagine MUMMERT has a suggested torque value for an aluminum cover so as not to stress the aluminum component and possibly use longer cap screws (per MUMMERT).

Are you using a cork gasket or neoprene?

Once you each suggested torque value - https://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/central-pdp.html/loctite-threadlocker-blue/SAP_0201OHL029W4.html



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Ted
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As Darrell mentions, a thin bead of RTV on each side of the gasket is almost a prerequisite for both the tin and aluminum valley covers.

Rubber or cork for the valley cover gaskets?  The rubber tends to slide out of place easier than the cork.  I do have better results with the cork gaskets but care must be taken to not overtighten the cover as the gaskets will tend to push or squeeze out.  Something else to check for would be the valley cover bolts being too long and thus bottoming out before actually pulling the cover down adequately to seal the gasket to the block.

Just random thoughts here so other comments always welcome.


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Brent
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The cork seal is not sqeezing out that I can detect and the bolts are not bottoming or backing out. I'm going to keep tightening.

KULTULZ: the bolts are under the intake manifold and a box wrench barely makes it on the front bolt. If I pull the intake to repair, the only torque spec that I have found is 2-2.5 ft lb. 

This engine is running very strong, Thanks to all of you! y-blocksforever.com is awesome.


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.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/ad7450e6-bad8-43db-880a-5d81.jpg http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/c63fa8b7-8d46-4b6f-91a4-19d8.jpg

55blacktie
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The valley cover, like valve covers, is easily over-tightened. I would not trust most ft lb torque wrenches to be accurate to 2-2.5 ft lbs; use an inch-pounds torque wrench and tighten to 24-30 inch-pounds. 
55blacktie
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How about more photos and engine specs for your Bird?
paul2748
Posted 3 days ago
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I don't think it is the valley cover.  I have the M8ummert cover on both of my YBlocks and do not have any leakage.  I always use some RTV as Ted mentioned.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Brent
Posted 3 days ago
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I mentioned the Mummert valley cover to inform that it is a quality cast aluminum cover, hoping to hear you can’t overtighten because it will not deform under pressure. I will keep an eye on the gasket as Ted mentioned. The leak is lessening as I tighten an eighth of a turn after a run.


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/17686150-f5ca-4cc0-a7f0-beb9.jpg
.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/ad7450e6-bad8-43db-880a-5d81.jpg http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/c63fa8b7-8d46-4b6f-91a4-19d8.jpg

KULTULZ
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Here is a previous discussion on proper fit -

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217874

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/6b3c84f1-a2b7-4873-9938-bef2.jpg






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