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By Brent - Last Month
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My Mummert valley cover is leaking oil. I have been snugging the bolts after runs and am at the point that I have to ask: Since I can’t use a torque wrench, how tight can I go? Or have I gone to tight already, I’m up to applying moderate force using a 1/2” box wrench.
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By darrell - Last Month
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i always put a bead of sealer on them before i sit them on and never have a leak.these are the factory ones.but thats not helping you any now.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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"My Mummert valley cover is leaking oil. I have been snugging the bolts after runs and am at the point that I have to ask: Since I can’t use a torque wrench, how tight can I go? Or have I gone to tight already, I’m up to applying moderate force using a 1/2” box wrench."
So the problem is the cap screws are continually backing out?
You are going to have to beg, borrow or steal a proper torque wrench. I would imagine MUMMERT has a suggested torque value for an aluminum cover so as not to stress the aluminum component and possibly use longer cap screws (per MUMMERT).
Are you using a cork gasket or neoprene?
Once you each suggested torque value - https://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/central-pdp.html/loctite-threadlocker-blue/SAP_0201OHL029W4.html
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By Ted - Last Month
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As Darrell mentions, a thin bead of RTV on each side of the gasket is almost a prerequisite for both the tin and aluminum valley covers.
Rubber or cork for the valley cover gaskets? The rubber tends to slide out of place easier than the cork. I do have better results with the cork gaskets but care must be taken to not overtighten the cover as the gaskets will tend to push or squeeze out. Something else to check for would be the valley cover bolts being too long and thus bottoming out before actually pulling the cover down adequately to seal the gasket to the block.
Just random thoughts here so other comments always welcome.
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By Brent - Last Month
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The cork seal is not sqeezing out that I can detect and the bolts are not bottoming or backing out. I'm going to keep tightening.
KULTULZ: the bolts are under the intake manifold and a box wrench barely makes it on the front bolt. If I pull the intake to repair, the only torque spec that I have found is 2-2.5 ft lb.
This engine is running very strong, Thanks to all of you! y-blocksforever.com is awesome.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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The valley cover, like valve covers, is easily over-tightened. I would not trust most ft lb torque wrenches to be accurate to 2-2.5 ft lbs; use an inch-pounds torque wrench and tighten to 24-30 inch-pounds.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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How about more photos and engine specs for your Bird?
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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I don't think it is the valley cover. I have the M8ummert cover on both of my YBlocks and do not have any leakage. I always use some RTV as Ted mentioned.
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By Brent - Last Month
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I mentioned the Mummert valley cover to inform that it is a quality cast aluminum cover, hoping to hear you can’t overtighten because it will not deform under pressure. I will keep an eye on the gasket as Ted mentioned. The leak is lessening as I tighten an eighth of a turn after a run.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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Here is a previous discussion on proper fit -
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217874
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Brent, it's not likely that you're tightening the cast valley cover to the point of deformation, but the same can't be said for the gasket.
Thanks for sharing the engine specs. It looks like you have an Isky E4 cam with 111 LSA, instead of the off-the-shelf 108. Considering you have 327 cu. in., do you now wish that you had selected a larger cam?
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By Brent - Last Month
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Built for street not strip. I love this setup, its snappy off the line, 0-80 in short order, 20 in vacuum, idles very smooth at 800 rpm and sounds great.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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I know we've gotten off track from your original post; hopefully nobody minds. What carburetor and headers are you using? Header primary diameter & exhaust diameter? Is that an ECZ-B intake or painted Blue Thunder?
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By 58F600 - Last Month
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Cork gaskets have always been a joke really. Throw the gasket in the trash, run a 1/8" bead of right stuff around the perimeter on the block and set the valley cover on. Put you bolts in finger tight and let set for 30 minutes then torque to factory spec.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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"Throw the gasket in the trash, run a 1/8" bead of right stuff around the perimeter on the block and set the valley cover on. Put you bolts in finger tight and let set for 30 minutes then torque to factory spec."
I agree. The trouble with the torque spec is most likely having to remove the intake to get at the cap screws.
It sounds to me that either the cover is not torqued correctly (cap screws backing out - no thread locker) or for some reason the cover is not laying down correctly (component(s) interference).
The below is sourced from BLUE THUNDER -
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