Hitting on all eight cylinders
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 5,
Visits: 148
|
hi, first post here but I'm always coming up with bad ideas and want to make sure i do them with the best possible outcome. I'm wanting to remove weight from a y-block. I'm going to be getting a sonic thickness tester and was wondering what areas of the block can be thinned or removed, what minimum thickness i should be looking in certain areas(not just for weight loss but for reliability, deck, bore...). currently removing excess bolt bosses, the weird pieces on the corners by the deck, removing camshaft eccentric, offset weight, fuel pump, cleaning casting flash inside and out, plugging heat crossover and trimming back the flanges on b intake and heads, using headers instead manifolds. maybe coming up with a new timing cover and using remote water pump. i know mummert heads intake and timing cover would be a huge savings, but I'm seeing what i can fabricate or get cheap. got idea from lsm advertising 35-70 pounds off blocks. I'm not expecting those kinds of numbers just from the block but be interesting to see. thanks Seth
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 hours ago
Posts: 732,
Visits: 21.3K
|
Welcome to the site. On removing weight from the block, about the only thing that I would suggest is to remove the casting flash at all the parting lines, but not take anything from the block structure itself. I have polished several crankshafts, and it is no easy task to remove even one pound from anything. It is much simpler to install aluminum heads, valley cover, timing cover, thermostat housing, intake manifold, valve covers, smaller starter, aluminum flex fan, composite air filter housing, and headers to the engine. An aluminum radiator and aluminum wheels help if total vehicle weight needs to come down. All this has been done by several folks. Grinding on the block will not remove enough weight to change 1 gallon of gasoline weight. BTDT. Joe-JDC
JDC
|
Hitting on all eight cylinders
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 5,
Visits: 148
|
Thanks. I like the y block, its a good street motor with some style points. Doesnt really need more power. Im just trying to give it every time consuming low cost upgrade i can muster. Around $1000 for a y specific part makes me consider engine swap.
My current guesstimate for rebuild is under 4k from mummert. Id like to find some used or light weight pistons with modern ring pack to be able to shave down the counter weights, and reduce friction. Aluminum engine parts while good for more power and over 100lbs less, but cost over $6k
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
Posts: 1.2K,
Visits: 135.6K
|
I’m currently looking at some upgrades for the 302 in my 65 Mustang. Over $2,000 for a good set of aluminum heads, $500-$600 for aluminum roller rockers and the list goes on. Everything is stupid expensive today. I’d think twice a do a lot of research before doing an engine swap.
|
Hitting on all eight cylinders
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 5,
Visits: 148
|
I have a high compression 460 with all the fixings. The problem is 14.5:1 compression, E85 is close with conservative timing or custom pistons to drop compression. Then its only a matter of converting ranchero to tanker truck so.it can have some range between fillups. To build y block with all the mummert goodies would get me over 350 hp but probably be about 8k low side. Plus trans, adapters, etc. My plan is 292 mummert rebuild kit, cam, probably intake at some point. If i dont loose any torque and pick up some horsepower im happy. Thinking of bolting it to liberty tko600 and beefed up 9 inch so never any concerns with traction.
|