Author
|
Message
|
55blacktie
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 1.1K,
Visits: 1.6K
|
I can't imagine seeing many 90-degree days in Seattle. 90 degrees is considered a cool summer day in the San Joaquin Valley. I hate the summer heat.
|
|
|
miker
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Week
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 183.3K
|
Many years ago when I put an SN 90 Paxton on the car (with an original McCulloch crank pulley) i couldn’t clear a decent fan. So I’ve been running a BeCool aluminum radiator, a tight shroud, and a good (can’t remember the name now, but it wasn’t cheap) electric fan. If not for that, I’d be running a clutch set up like Greenbird56 has written up. Hayden clutch, oem a/c fan he found, and a full lower shroud. But the fan runs for about 90 seconds stopped on a 90 degree day, and cycles again about 2 minutes later. For Seattle, that good enough not to mess with it.
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
55blacktie
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 1.1K,
Visits: 1.6K
|
Miker, are you also using a mechanical fan on your Bird? If so, how many blades?
|
|
|
miker
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Week
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 183.3K
|
No disagreement with any of the above. But I’ve used adjusted controllers on several electric fan installs on the bird and other cars. Some have used water temp senders that screwed in, but others have used a small probe that slipped between the radiators tubes through the fins. I was skeptical of those initially, but they went right in with no forcing or damage. There’s typically a rubber cap on the front side so the incoming cold air doesn’t affect the temp reading.
You get your choice of where you place them, near the top inlet, at the bottom outlet, etc. Depending on your preference for which is best. The controllers typically include a relay for the fan, and a high low adjustment. You set your turn on temperature (say 190 or 200 with a 180 stat), and then the turn off a bit lower. I ran my last one at 190 on and 180 off. Fan didn’t run at road speed, and with the delta setting didn’t didn’t short cycle. Worked good on my bird, and we all know about keeping them cool in traffic. Some even start slow and ramp up in speed if required. Makes them less intrusive in traffic on a cooler day as they aren’t as loud.
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
KULTULZ
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 1.5K,
Visits: 302.3K
|
TED EATON is correct (well, ain't he always?). The sensor has to be behind the thermostat to read correctly. That side of the WP is not going to be at engine temp as it is drawing return coolant from the radiator. The fan(s) will not get the correct signal and cut on quickly enough. I wonder if his modification was ever shown in an article or post?
____________________________
|
|
|
55blacktie
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 1.1K,
Visits: 1.6K
|
Mike, according to RockAuto, the inside diameter of the 1956 Parlane's upper radiator hose is 1.5 inches, which is smaller than the Tbird's 1.75. American Volt does have a 1.5/38mm adapter; the price is the same ($19.95).
|
|
|
55blacktie
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 1.1K,
Visits: 1.6K
|
Assuming your upper radiator hose diameter is the same as my 55 Tbird's, you'll need a 44mm/1.75 adapter. I bought mine from American volt.com. It's black-anodized aluminum and is drilled and tapped for a 1/8 npt sender as well as a ground screw (screw included. Price is $19.95. Although it also includes hose clamps, I thought they were cheap and didn't fit well, but I have no complaints regarding the adapter. For an additional $10, they will include a sending unit, but it might not be compatible with your fan/temperature gauge, and I can't attest to the sender's quality.
Check your PM.
|
|
|
MplsMike
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
Posts: 202,
Visits: 89.8K
|
Thanks all for the replies. I too am not overly exited about removing the intake. I think I may try using an adapter in the radiator hose.
MplsMike '56 Parklane Minneapolis, MN
|
|
|
55blacktie
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 1.1K,
Visits: 1.6K
|
I did the same before Ted drilled & tapped my manifold while also opening up the plenum/carburetor base to 2 ovals and blending the runners into the plenum. Ted said that if the thermostat were to become stuck closed, having the sensor/sender in the upper radiator hose would give a false reading. In the case of an electric fan, it would not come on. Having the sender in the manifold has the added benefit of a cleaner appearance as well. However, I don't know that I would go to the trouble of drilling & tapping the manifold, unless it had already been removed from the engine, which it had been in my case.
|
|
|
famdoc3
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Months Ago
Posts: 176,
Visits: 21.6K
|
I put mine in the upper radiator hose with a piece easily bought on line summit and many other venues have them. Can also be used to trigger electric fans.
Mike, still lovin his 57 t'bird after 53 years!
|
|
|