Where are y'all getting rocker arm adjuster screws? 
I was looking at mine before installation, and the shafts and rockers look good but most of the adjusting screws have worn balls.
I think I recall someone once saying that FE adjuster screws will work. The ones I currently have are the type with the lock nut. I'd rather just replace the screws if possible than shell out the $$ for whole new rocker shaft assemblies.

I believe Mummrt sells new screws


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Thanks Paul. I hadn't seen them listed on his website, but I gave John a call and left a voice mail. Hopefully he's got some stock.

Sure enough, John had some and they're on their way here.  

having rocker arms adjuster wear indicates  not enough sub to topped.thia will in short oder cause cam wear,vave guide wear.
so I would dismantel rocker shafts, remove core plugs and clean shafts.most likely they are scored and not useable.
well you have rocker assembly  off block bleed tubes.enough oil willgodown the drain holes to rub timing chains well dust/oilpump gears.
if I owned that engine would tear it down, regrind or replace cam and lifters, make sure came grove is enlarge iif cam has cross driles
holes and  cam bearings ar good you will do well

vave guide may be worn, if so repair heads and new valve seals. I used 289 stock seals, just timed umberellabout1/8..

if you do nothing you will never get  what a block runs like. I learned lots on this site, and recommend it to new  blockers

The engine is being rebuilt, with new lifters & cam. I bought the cam from John Mummert specifically because he will machine the oil groove to the correct depth on all cams he sells.

The rocker assemblies I was hoping to use are relatively low-mileage units I removed from the 312 I've been driving pretty much forever. The ball wear struck me as kind of odd, since as I said they don't really have a lot of miles on them. The shafts are in great shape, as are the rocker arms where they contact the valve stems. No measurable wear at all. That's why I hoped to use them on this engine.

Meanwhile I've got old crusty sets of rocker arms lying on the shelf that exhibit the usual shaft and rocker tip wear, but the adjuster screws are in great shape. Weird.

Anyway, new screws are on order, and they'll be interacting with new pushrods.

Still on the fence regarding plugging the overflow tubes. I know some builders will do that no matter what, and others will only do that for situations where stronger valve springs are being used. I understand the timing chain and distributor will be sufficiently lubricated either way.

Marc,  there are holes in the rocker arm, they run from the  shaft area of the arm and  exit  next to the adjuster screw.  Make sure  they are open, they oil the ball of the screw and the top of the pushrod.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Hi John,
Yep, those holes are all clean and open. 

have you  taken out the core plugs in rocker shafts, you will see lots of sludge at the opesett end to bleed tubes.
 I have blocked off  spill tubes on my 292,enlarged groves in cam lube grooves. have apron 26000 miles since rebuild, have rocker covers off
2 times to set valves, all  still as they wher set 4 years ago. I cant run with  covers off as ther is plenty of lube splashing . I removed the tin spacers to compensait for thicker head gaskets..oil consumption  no issue 

Inside of the shafts is nice, no sludge. I would've been surprised to find any sludge in there, as I've given the engine they came off of regular oil changes since I first built it 34 years ago.
New shafts will be installed anyway, and these can go on the shelf as spares. Now leaning towards blocking off the overflow tube, Can't hurt.