I have used Valvoline conventional in my 56 for quite a while. Went to Advance auto. today to get the oil today for oil change and couldn't find conventional. All they had was high milage. synthetic blend., so the question is can i use it instead of the conventional  Carl

I have been using Valvoline VR1 20/50 in a 1956 pickup 272 with lots of miles on it. I'm in California heat but also drive in winter. Should I be using 10/40 instead of 20/50?  Thoughts will be appreciated, Thanks 

1956 F100 272 4 speed
Northern California

I would prefer 10w-40, but I've been unable to find VR-1 10w-40 conventional oil. Amazon seems to have the best price/w free shipping on VR-1 10w-30. I, too, have read that VR-1 isn't recommended for non-race applications. Does it lack detergents? Personally, I don't want to use oil that has to be changed more frequently than yearly/every 3,000 miles, whatever comes first, but VR-1 does have a higher concentration of phosphorus and zinc than Daily Protection 10w-40 conventional. 

I did a search for vr1 not fgor use in street cars and found this.

We are not able to join the forums, but we can give you the answer you need, or maybe would like to add to the forum. Our VR1 Racing Oil is NOT just an "ordinary new car street oil" as listed. Our Valvoline VR1 Racing Oils can be used in street applications, but still contains the high amount of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorus). This information can be found on our Valvoline.com website, under the section where it lists the Racing Oils. We have also added the product information sheet for both the VR1 and the "Not Street Legal" Racing oils. As you will see, Valvoline still contains 1200 ppm Zinc content in our regular conventional VR1. It does carry the API Service "SM" rating, but this oil was not made to change for emission standards due to it not being a "ordinary street car oil." This information clearly states the amount of both the Zinc and Phosphorus levels in the oils. The main difference between the the "Not Street Legal" racing oil, or commonly known as Conventional and Synthetic Racing oils, and the VR1 is the Calcium content. Calcium levels are higher in the NSL oils, compared to the VR1, and the NSL oil is only recommended for 500 mile oil changes, while the VR1 is a 3 month/3,000 mile oil.
Valvoline stands behind the flat-tappet and more aggressive type cam applications 100% with our Valvoline VR1 and NSL Racing oils. The proof is in our product information sheets, which are online for the viewing as well.
Here are the product information sheets with test results for all of VR1, Not Street Legal conventional, and Not Street Legal Synthetic.
Thank you,
Valvoline
I prob wont put 3000 miles on the 272 in a year but I do change the oil yearly any got an opinion on the 3 month/3000 mile life

I was thinking of mixing 50/50 VR1 10w30 and 20w50 and getting something like a 15w40.  I THOUGHT I read recently somewhere that they said that VR1 was good for AT LEAST 3000 or 1 year.  

Maybe I'll just order more of that Amsoil Zrod for next year.  Been running 10W30 the past couple of years but thinking maybe 10w40 is the way to go.  Oil pressure is always good- 50 at startup and 40 plus at hot idle.  

Thanks for all the replies

1956 F100 272 4 speed
Northern California