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By carl - Last Year
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I have used Valvoline conventional in my 56 for quite a while. Went to Advance auto. today to get the oil today for oil change and couldn't find conventional. All they had was high milage. synthetic blend., so the question is can i use it instead of the conventional Carl
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By charliemccraney - Last Year
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From what I understand, high mileage oils have rubber conditioners that will cause rubber to swell. That can be good for an old engine that might leak a little in hard to service areas, but not something you want to use on a new engine (and not something you want to use arbitrarily on an engine that is not leaking - if it has high mileage, but no leaks, don't use it).
You may have to order the oil. I noticed a similar lack of conventional oil recently, myself.
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By paul2748 - Last Year
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Check ebay and Amazon. That's where I by mine (Valvoline). Prices are usually good and some have no shipping cost besides. I get the big bottles, use a quart bottle to measure
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By Tazx100 - Last Year
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I was cruising the net tonight an ran across this post, its time for me to change oil in the fairlane and i was running the high milage oil and when I read about the swelling it caused I decided not to run it and started looking for conventional valvoline then I ran across Valvoline vr1 racing 10 w 30 oil it has a high zinc content and says its for classice cars this is what I am switching to.
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Year
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charliemccraney (7/25/2023)
From what I understand, high mileage oils have rubber conditioners that will cause rubber to swell. That can be good for an old engine that might leak a little in hard to service areas, but not something you want to use on a new engine (and not something you want to use arbitrarily on an engine that is not leaking - if it has high mileage, but no leaks, don't use it). You may have to order the oil. I noticed a similar lack of conventional oil recently, myself.
Just curious, but why would causing rubber gaskets in a high-millage motor to swell, thus creat a problem? If rubber hardens & shrinks with age (?), wouldn’t encouraging them to swell actually prevent leaks?
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By charliemccraney - Last Year
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If you use it in an engine that is not leaking, high mileage or not, the rubber components will wear as usual but in that swollen state. This can do a couple things. One is that the rubber components may wear faster due to increased pressure against the sealing surfaces and that may make it such that the engine requires a high mileage oil because switching back may now cause it to leak. If you use high mileage oil and it does start to leak, you have no recourse and the problem now must be fixed whereas, if you wait until the engine starts to leak on a "standard" motor oil, using the high mileage oil may seal it up again and buy some more time before major work needs to be done.
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By carl - Last Year
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Tazx100 (7/25/2023)
I was cruising the net tonight an ran across this post, its time for me to change oil in the fairlane and i was running the high milage oil and when I read about the swelling it caused I decided not to run it and started looking for conventional valvoline then I ran across Valvoline vr1 racing 10 w 30 oil it has a high zinc content and says its for classice cars this is what I am switching to. Thanks for the info on the Valvoline vr1 oil, that is what i am going to switch to Carl
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By slumlord444 - Last Year
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Can’t go wrong with VR1.
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By paul2748 - Last Year
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I am using Valvoline conventional 10-40 in both of my Yblocks per Ted;s recommendation.
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By PF Arcand - Last Year
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Carl's point is he cant find it.. I've had the same issue here in western Canada.. 10-40 conventional is not readily available even in large auto related stores.. I guess the reason is obvious, no modern cars use 10-40 . So??
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By Brent - Last Year
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I get it on Amazon. Search for: Valvoline 10w40
Valvoline™ Daily Protection SAE 10W-40 Conventional Motor Oil 5 QT is $32
I get ZDDPplus there as well
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By slumlord444 - Last Year
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Valvolene Vr1 racing oil in the weight of your choice. Amazon or any parts store should be able to order it if they don’t stock it.
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By 2721955meteor - Last Year
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slumlord444 (8/12/2023)
Valvolene Vr1 racing oil in the weight of your choice. Amazon or any parts store should be able to order it if they don’t stock it.
racing oil is a no. what is wrong with 10/30. my 292 y has had 10/30 since rebuild5years ago.. ther are several tests on engine oils that show little to no difference.
and as well racing oil is designed for a short life under heavy loads.IF YOU LIVE IN CANADA SEND ME YOUR ADRESS AND A STAMPED ENVELOPE AND I WILL SEND A COPPEY. CLIFF TATE 2618 Natalie rd Shawnigan Lake bc. vor2w2
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By DryLakesRacer - Last Year
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I agree with meteor. There is really no reason to use racing oil of any kind and actually not recommended by manufacturers. There are quite of few brands listing “Hot Rod” or Classic car oils for engines and blended for them. Fords recommended SAE 20 or 20w oil for our engines right on the inside of the glove box on a sticker. Single weight oils are not easily available so a 10-30 would be my call in any case. Lucas, Castro, Quakerstate, etc all have blends for our older engines and list proper Zinc amounts. Personally the key is to use our vehicles long enough to get them properly heated and oil to the temperature it’s designed to have proper flow characteristics especially to the cylinder head rocker arms.
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Year
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If I did this right, the link should open the data sheets for conventional Valvoline motor oil showing zinc etc. content. 10W30 for the most part is what I used through the years in my Y-block and always had excellent oil pressure no mater the ambient temperature. I always add a 4oz. bottle of zinc supplement but that is probably not necessary. If the link doesn't work, maybe someone can post it correctly. Removed non-functional link.
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Year
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Sorry guys, I don't know why the link doesn't opoen correctly like it does on my computer.
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Year
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DryLakesRacer (8/18/2023)
I agree with meteor. There is really no reason to use racing oil of any kind and actually not recommended by manufacturers. There are quite of few brands listing “Hot Rod” or Classic car oils for engines and blended for them. Fords recommended SAE 20 or 20w oil for our engines right on the inside of the glove box on a sticker. Single weight oils are not easily available so a 10-30 would be my call in any case. Lucas, Castro, Quakerstate, etc all have blends for our older engines and list proper Zinc amounts. Personally the key is to use our vehicles long enough to get them properly heated and oil to the temperature it’s designed to have proper flow characteristics especially to the cylinder head rocker arms.
Just curious:
With sole focus on traditional minimum pressure recommendation (10 lbs. per 1000rpm), could someone remind me of likely consequences if less? (10W-40 vs. 10W-30).
Too speedy evacuation of bearing spaces might promote metal contact? Or, might the benefits of increased circulation (cooling) outweigh risk of slightly bending the min. rule? How much of that rule is evidence based, vs. supposition/tradition?
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By Ted - Last Year
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DANIEL TINDER (8/18/2023)
DryLakesRacer (8/18/2023)
I agree with meteor. There is really no reason to use racing oil of any kind and actually not recommended by manufacturers. There are quite of few brands listing “Hot Rod” or Classic car oils for engines and blended for them. Fords recommended SAE 20 or 20w oil for our engines right on the inside of the glove box on a sticker. Single weight oils are not easily available so a 10-30 would be my call in any case. Lucas, Castro, Quakerstate, etc all have blends for our older engines and list proper Zinc amounts. Personally the key is to use our vehicles long enough to get them properly heated and oil to the temperature it’s designed to have proper flow characteristics especially to the cylinder head rocker arms. Just curious:
With sole focus on traditional minimum pressure recommendation (10 lbs. per 1000rpm), could someone remind me of likely consequences if less? (10W-40 vs. 10W-30).
Too speedy evacuation of bearing spaces might promote metal contact? Or, might the benefits of increased circulation (cooling) outweigh risk of slightly bending the min. rule? How much of that rule is evidence based, vs. supposition/tradition? Early morning thoughts on the subject.
The 10# per 1000 rpm for engine oil pressure is just a generalized rule that if followed, ensures no advanced bearing or journal wear. Some engines get by with less than this depending upon the internal clearances. Oil pressure is simply a result of restrictions to the oil flow so having no oil pressure present does not necessarily mean that there is no oil. Just the opposite in fact as when oil flow is not inhibited, oil pressure will be low or not evident, but flow will be high.
With all that being said, oil pressure is important. Oil must be at the bearings with enough pressure to generate a pressure wave between the bearing and the surface it rides on. No pressure, no wave. Bearing clearances and oil viscosity work in tandem with each other to create this pressure wave. Too much clearance and no pressure wave. Not enough viscosity in the oil and no pressure wave. It’s a fine balance for that pressure wave or oil film to be created and still not be so thick or heavy that the oil will not flow from the bearing. The oil flow must also be sufficient enough to carry the heat away from the rotating surface but not so inhibited that the bearing gets hot and prematurely fails. Using an oil with too much viscosity with bearing clearances that are too tight for that particular viscosity will have a tendency to overheat the bearings due to the oil not flowing fast enough to carry the heat away.
Multi-weight oils were introduced in the early Fifties and helped to provide that balance in oil flow between cold starts and hot running. While the cold starting with 10W-30 and 10W-40 oil are similar, the 10W-40 oil would be more desirable in hotter climates and provide an extra degree of pressure protection to the bearings.
When comparing oils from different companies, it’s important to realize that testing procedures and the ranges for the viscosity of their oils will not be standardized to each other. Viscosity ranges in these instances will vary and not be the same across the board. Company A with a 10W-40 oil may not be the same as Company B with the same advertised 10W-40 oil. That’s the reason when I did a oil viscosity test on the dyno, I used the same brand of oil throughout the test as using other brands of oil gave some conflicting numbers.
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By Tedlauri - Last Year
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I have been using Valvoline VR1 20/50 in a 1956 pickup 272 with lots of miles on it. I'm in California heat but also drive in winter. Should I be using 10/40 instead of 20/50? Thoughts will be appreciated, Thanks
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By 55blacktie - Last Year
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I would prefer 10w-40, but I've been unable to find VR-1 10w-40 conventional oil. Amazon seems to have the best price/w free shipping on VR-1 10w-30. I, too, have read that VR-1 isn't recommended for non-race applications. Does it lack detergents? Personally, I don't want to use oil that has to be changed more frequently than yearly/every 3,000 miles, whatever comes first, but VR-1 does have a higher concentration of phosphorus and zinc than Daily Protection 10w-40 conventional.
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By Tazx100 - Last Year
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I did a search for vr1 not fgor use in street cars and found this.
We are not able to join the forums, but we can give you the answer you need, or maybe would like to add to the forum. Our VR1 Racing Oil is NOT just an "ordinary new car street oil" as listed. Our Valvoline VR1 Racing Oils can be used in street applications, but still contains the high amount of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorus). This information can be found on our Valvoline.com website, under the section where it lists the Racing Oils. We have also added the product information sheet for both the VR1 and the "Not Street Legal" Racing oils. As you will see, Valvoline still contains 1200 ppm Zinc content in our regular conventional VR1. It does carry the API Service "SM" rating, but this oil was not made to change for emission standards due to it not being a "ordinary street car oil." This information clearly states the amount of both the Zinc and Phosphorus levels in the oils. The main difference between the the "Not Street Legal" racing oil, or commonly known as Conventional and Synthetic Racing oils, and the VR1 is the Calcium content. Calcium levels are higher in the NSL oils, compared to the VR1, and the NSL oil is only recommended for 500 mile oil changes, while the VR1 is a 3 month/3,000 mile oil.
Valvoline stands behind the flat-tappet and more aggressive type cam applications 100% with our Valvoline VR1 and NSL Racing oils. The proof is in our product information sheets, which are online for the viewing as well.
Here are the product information sheets with test results for all of VR1, Not Street Legal conventional, and Not Street Legal Synthetic.
Thank you,
Valvoline
I prob wont put 3000 miles on the 272 in a year but I do change the oil yearly any got an opinion on the 3 month/3000 mile life
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By 55blacktie - Last Year
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I still can't find VR1 10w-40. 10w-30, straight 40, and 20w-50, but no 10w-40.
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By Deyomatic - Last Year
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I was thinking of mixing 50/50 VR1 10w30 and 20w50 and getting something like a 15w40. I THOUGHT I read recently somewhere that they said that VR1 was good for AT LEAST 3000 or 1 year.
Maybe I'll just order more of that Amsoil Zrod for next year. Been running 10W30 the past couple of years but thinking maybe 10w40 is the way to go. Oil pressure is always good- 50 at startup and 40 plus at hot idle.
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By Tedlauri - Last Year
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Thanks for all the replies
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