I’m running a vintage Mallory dizzy that bumps the head at TDC so it cannot be advanced any further.

Absolutely. Most of the time, depending on what is being hit, you only need to unclamp the distributor with the cap off and turn the rotor one tooth on the gear. Can’t tell you which way without knowing what’s being hit. The rotor turns counterclockwise looking at the top.  

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I didn’t want to remove distributor figuring clocking the wires do the same thing but not sure which direction clockwise or counterclockwise to move the wires one hole. 

Moving the wires in the same direction you are trying to turn it will help but it is a large change in degrees. It might be too much which is why going with the tooth change works better. (and that will be the opposite direction)
Easy to do the wires so no harm in trying.


1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes.
1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip!
1977 Ford F-250 Supercab RWD Explorer Long box.
1976 Chev Camaro RS LT
Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1

I have a late 50s Mallory I plan to install before long, and this thread reminds me to be sure to position the body with enough clearance slack, so as to thus allow adequate future timing adjustment.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Dan,
It this  protrusion (red flush red bolt) that gets in the way.

Dan,
It this  protrusion (red flush red bolt) that gets in the way.

Sorry photo won’t load. It’s behind the condenser 

I’m having trouble load photos here too…I get a please wait….

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Not you. Known issue with the site. Images cannot be processed. Been quite a while now.


1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes.
1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip!
1977 Ford F-250 Supercab RWD Explorer Long box.
1976 Chev Camaro RS LT
Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1