Going down the road the heat guage stays in the middle but when you stop it starts getting hot, I read on this forum somewhere the best fix was putting a water pump pulley off a 69 ford 302 on, If someone can confirm this and give me some part numbers for the pulley and belt would be great.

I got mine from CJ Pony Parts...and it worked for me.  
Just looked up the invoice and mine says "1965-1969 289/302/351 2- Groove Water Pump Pulley 5-3/4 inch Black Steel, Part # WPP1."  It was $56 in October 2021.

Thanks that helps alot. Did you have to shim the new pulley to get it to align with the gen and balancer pulleys?

Summit sells a spacer kit with 3 different thicknesses. I think it’s Mr Gasket #6129 . Summit also sellers a Mr Gasket single groove #8826  I had to change the belt to 1/2” shorter. A 5 or 6 blade fan can also help if you add AC. I painted the chrome pulley satin black. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I don't recall having to shim anything...that was a couple of years ago, though.  Mine's a 292 from '59.  There's 2 grooves so one should line up.  

Or buy the shims on Amazon and return them if you don't need them? 

Unless my original had a shim that I reused, I sure didn't buy one.  

If the new pulley is not in perfect alignment with the crank pulley and generator/alternator side load is put on the belt. I found it easier to be prepared for the $12 the kit cost. The pressed on flange can also be moved forward with a puller if needed but mine I knew was too big to use with radiator in place. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

what is the temp readings it over 190. has the rad bin serviced by a reputable rad shop. also the temp gauge  is in a strange  spot in all blocks as the water has not passed threw the side head. borrow a hear gun and check the therm aria on intake. then check the top of rad  versus the bottom if ther is large difference,rad is plugged internally. larger or faster water pump won't cure the isue. good luck

I went with the pulley from summit because it was a single and I did get the shim kit as well. I haven't checked the system with a heat gun yet but I am going to before I replace the pulley. The car runs fine going down the road it only builds heat if you let it idle for a while when its up to temp. Thanks for everyones advice.

Whether some bad mouth this fix.. it has helped way more than it has never hurt. These cars and engines have driven millions of miles when new and over the years with no problems but recently this overheating has been discussed at length and a smaller pump pulley way the fix.
If you want as a test. With the engine cold  Lower the level in your radiator 1”, remove the cap start your engine and watch the coolant level. Continue to look as the engine reaches operating temp and you know your thermostat is open. If you see little too no movement of coolant raise the rpm 100 rpm and look at the coolant and see if there is movement. I was told by a owner on this site to try this. I had no movement of coolant without raising the idle. After installing the new smaller pulley I had movement and my heating creep up at idle was stopped. Good luck. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Thanks, as soon as I get time to get around the car I have a good idea of what to check and how. Just hope the radiator isn't gunked up that a boil out wont fix. The car is too original to put an aluminum radiator in it and they want 800 bucks online for a replacement