Built a 292 going into a 55 bird.  It is my first Y-block build.  I built a run stand to break in the motor before actual install.  The car is painted, and I don't want to risk it any more than I have to.  I am running FPA headers in the car, but they hit on the run stand.  I have the stock T-bird exhaust manifolds, but not the flanges to hook them up to the mufflers.  I hate to spend $100 on a new set from the bird suppliers when I am not going to use them.  Any ideas or sources?

Thanks
Paul

I can't help you with flanges. However, if your headers are new, you don't want to put them on an engine that hasn't been broken in. I have Sanderson ceramic-coated headers for my 55 Tbird, but the original exhaust manifolds will be installed on the engine while it's being broken in on a stand. 

You can make flanges if you have a drill (preferably a drill press), hole saw and angle grinder.

Since it is temporary, trace a gasket onto some 1/4" steel, drill the holes and use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut it out.  If you want it to be a more durable flange, use 3/8 steel but 1/4 will be fine for running it on a stand, if that's all you need to do.



Lawrenceville, GA

Can you swap sides on your run stand? Many do that.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I have never heard of not breaking in an engine with headers before.  Curious why that would be an issue?  Flipping sides on the headers would not help, the center two pipes drop straight down on both sides and hit the brace coming up to the center motor mount.  I might be able to flip them upside down, like a boat header, but that would make it hard to get to the carb etc. to tune it.  I could make the flanges, but trying to find an easy way out.  I am also cheap, and anything with Thunderbird costs about two times more than a 55 Ford.  Was hoping some one knew of a cheap source for a Ford set.

Paul

The problem is not so much the headers but the ceramic coating on the headers.  If the ceramic coating is new, you do not want to overheat it which is exactly what happens when running those headers on a test stand or an engine dyno without a constant air flow over the headers.  It’s important for those ceramic coated headers when new to have a constant air flow over them.  A moving car provides that.  On the dyno when forced to use new ceramic coated headers, fans blowing on both sides of the engine helps to alleviate getting the headers too hot initially.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Would a set of factory exhaust pipes help. Should have a spare used set you can have for shipping costs. I’m in southern Illinois. Were are you?

I am in Ohio.  Just sent you a PM with my information.

Thanks
Paul