Hello  I once had a 272 (early 1955?)  that I couldn't stop rear main seal from leaking. But this was back when rope seal were used (1960s).  This engine crank did not have oil sling. Had to swap in a later crank, that slowed leak but didn't completely stop it, but was using rope style seal with expanding type side seals.

Hello  I once had a 272 (early 1955?)  that I couldn't stop rear main seal from leaking. But this was back when rope seal were used (1960s).  This engine crank did not have oil sling. Had to swap in a later crank, that slowed leak but didn't completely stop it, but was using rope style seal with expanding type side seals.

I am not using the rope seal, it's neoprene so I'm not sure if that swelling would happen... using Rotella T and Lucas break in additive. Darn thing has about 70 lbs pressure on cold start. THANKS for the tip sir

Not sure what weight oil you're running, but if the stop leak makes you nervous, maybe thicken it up a bit with some heavier oil.

I would suggest running  the car some more to see if the seal swells up and stops leaking (if it's not leaking real bad).  Also try some stop leak - sometimes it helps.  If both things fail, then change the seal.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Well, hoping to draw on the knowledge out there... I have a 55 Country Sedan wagon w/ 272 and after finally getting it running it appears I have a rear main seal leak. The engine is rebuilt, however its been sitting for 20 years... long story. Just wondering if anyone knows if I can do this seal change with the engine sitting in the car. Saw somewhere that if #1 is on TDC the pan will come out, not much room at crossmember. Front sump pan. Would be obliged for any experiences out there....Thanks,