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John Mummert
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 912,
Visits: 7.4K
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A little redundant for you hardened veterans around here but, but you never know who it may help. https://youtu.be/aw1-lKWsmAc
http://ford-y-block.com 20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico 
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napaunderground
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 46,
Visits: 111
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I appreciate this as I'm pretty green re: Y-Block stuff... but I'm learning, and now addicted!
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Ted
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Group: Administrators
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 7.4K,
Visits: 205.0K
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Geoff. Thanks for posting the video. Absolutely nothing redundant about bringing that back up. Here’s the link to the top end oiling article that was previously published in The Y-Block Magazine. This article reinforces Geoff’s video as well as giving some additional options for oiling modifications. Y-Block Top End Oiling Woes – Eaton Balancing
 Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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DANIEL TINDER
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 142.6K
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He makes the point re: how enlarging (massaging) the head passage is futile, since the cam/bearing restriction is so small in comparison. But, if that crooked passage is totally plugged it becomes quite relevant then. I suspect it was a combination of bearing wear restriction AND thus increasing sludge buildup do to decreased flow (50s era non-detergent oil & ignored service interval complicity) that created the problem. Much as the original SBC motors were likely just tossed & replaced rather than rebuilt when they soon wore out (no oil filter/thin wall casting), Ford dealership mechanics would often repair Y-Block top-oiling issues by merely installing service replacement head assemblies rather than waste time grinding valves & cleaning out those poorly designed oil passages.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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napaunderground
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 46,
Visits: 111
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How do those in the know feel about chamfering the oil passage in the head to smooth out the 90* turn in the path? Before:  After:  it's hard to see the complete change due to my poor lighting/camera ability... (but before final cleaning) was this pointless?
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DANIEL TINDER
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 142.6K
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I assume Geoff qualifies as “In the know” (?). Modern multi weight detergent oil changed on schedule would likely make chamfering (massaging) the passage a superfluous effort, compared to insuring an adequate cam groove depth. Probably couldn’t hurt (for those who run out of things to do), though don’t know enough re: the pros & cons to comment personally.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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napaunderground
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 46,
Visits: 111
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I didn't catch that `massaging` meant chamfering. Words. English. heh. thanks.  It was fun "thinking" I was doing right... and of course, I already installed the cam and lifters - crank, and timing set. :| before I knew to check what the cam grinder did about the groove.
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2721955meteor
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 927,
Visits: 190.0K
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IF TRYING TO SALVAGE A OLDER Y.,OR OLDER REBUILD REMOVE ROCKER ARM AASSEMBSEMBLY,TAKE OUT COR PLUGS,REMOVE ROCKERS,LIKLEY THE ROCKER SHAFTS FARTHER THAN THE SPILL TUBES WILL BE GAULED. WHILE THE ROCKER AASSEMBSEMBLY ARE OFF REMOVE DIST AND RUN THEOIL PUMP WITH A OLDE DIST SHAFT ,MINUS THE GEAR. IF OILCOMES OUT OF THE HOLES IN BOTH HEADS YOU ARE IN GOOD SHAPE. IF YOUR CAM SHAFT IS THE STYL YOU WILL HAVE TO ROLL THE ENGINE TO GET OIL OUT BOTH LUBE HOLESAS THOS CAMS HAD HOLES TO LIMIT OIL FLOW. MY OPINIIAN IS THAT IF VALVE SEALES ARE OK ROCKER SHAFT OK RE ASEMBEL ROCKER SHAFTS,DISCARD THE BLEEDTUBES BLOCK OFF THE ROCKER STAND SO NO OIL COMES OUT THE HOLE.WHILE THE ROCKERS ARE APART TAP THE EN STAND AND ROUND OFTHE END OF THE CAPSCREW SO ITBLOCKS THE HOLE AND POSITIONS THE ROCKER SHAFTS AND MAKES IT EASEYER TO ASEMBLE THER ARE LOTS OF DRAINS AT EACH PUSHROD TO INSURE PLENTY OFOIL TO FRONT AND REAR OF ENGINE. IF YOU HAVE A FRESH REBUILD AND USE DECENT OIL,CHANG OIL NOW AND THEN NO NEED TO GO THREW ALL THE ABOVE
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Daniel Jessup
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 2.0K,
Visits: 125.3K
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John, Thank you, and your son, for producing these videos. We would all like to see the Y Block get positive press, but unfortunately some of the YouTube videos and channels with the highest view counts are either lackluster in their information or are like this one here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JI_TBe1qss4. I cannot imagine someone producing a video with the intent of labeling the Ford Y Block as one of the worst engines every produced, but there it is. And the thing has over 88,000 views. Social media can be a circus at times, and I've seen a LOT of mis-information, lies, and downright negative press for the Y on these types of platforms. Appreciate your development of quality Y parts as well my friend, carry on. Hot Rod Reverend
Daniel JessupLancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"  check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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Florida_Phil
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 1.2K,
Visits: 285.6K
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Great video. Before I installed my current Isky cam, we measure the center cam grove depth at .018". This was new out of the box. On the advice of this forum, we machined the center groove to .030" deep. We did not widen the groove. With the engine assembled on the stand, we used a speed wrench to turn the oil pump by hand. A good stream of oil flowed into both heads. So much so that I was somewhat worried that there would be too much oil. The rockers were assembled with new unmodified drain tubes in the stock location. This turned out to be perfect for this engine. I have put about 3,000 miles of this engine so far and top end oiling has been excellent. The plugs are perfect and there is no excess oil where it's not suppose to be. Thanks for the great advice.

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