Great news! Glad you got it.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Glad it’s fixed. I should have thought of this sooner. Even though it’s a Willy’s site it’s the BW publication. Problem cost more for paper and ink in the printer than the original 50 cent price.

http://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/TechData/BWOverdriveManual.pdf

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Way to go, all the money you saved fixing it yourself will buy some gas for cruising...........    Way to go, JEFF..............

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

MUCH THANKS to everyone who helped me with this problem that I thought was a big one.  I disassembled the defective solenoid that I had and removed the plunger shaft.  I used it as a tool to grab onto the pawl pulling it outward.  Eventually, buy manipulating the two main shift levers and yanking on the tool it suddenly clicked and I could feel it release.  I was then able to easily reinstall the replacement solenoid.  I have checked out all of the electrical components and everything seems to be working now. I just need to put some gas in the tank and test drive the car to make sure that the O.D. is working.  Alan

I could not agree more with Dearborn's advice. You should not have to remove the trans to fix this issue. I will recommend that you purchase an OD booklet - I know that my copies have been a big help to me though the rebuilds, etc. If you google the transmission and "manual" you may find some free digital files.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Thanks Dearborn.  I will try all of the "tricks" that you suggested tomorrow to see if they work.  Alan

Alan - I don't believe you need to pull the trans. As stated above, the pawl is probably pushed all the way in and greavity is not enough for it to slide to the outward position. Thisgs may be binding due to the trans being studk in a gear and/or the overdrive lockout cable not being in the nonlockout position so as not to block the pawl from sliding out.  That is, if it was lockedout while the solenoid was removed and the pawl was in the extreme inward position.  I assume the rear wheels are off the ground so the driveshaft can be rotated by hand which will allow the machanism to be rotated while getting the trans in neutral.  One trick you can do since you have 2 solenoids is take presumably the bad one apart and remove the armature/plunger. Now you nave an extended "tool" to insert in the trans, engage the pawl and pull it out. This "tool" is also very handy for bench testing before the trans is put back in the vehicle.  When you get it as far outward as it will go, then move the lockout lever to the lockout position to keep the pawl from sliding back in again.  Also mentioned above, a pocket telescoping magnet will work to withdraw the pawl.  I think it's just a matter of being able to freely rotate the driveshaft, get the trans in neutral and everyghing else correctly positioned by trial and error to allow the pawl to be pulled out.  I'm trying to remember this trans as best I can - it's been many many rears...........

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Hi Daniel.  It looks like I have created a big mess here over what should have been a simple job replacing the O.D. solenoid.  I disconnected the O.D. cable at the lever, moved the lever back as far as it would go but the plunger still won't engage in the pawl.  Even worse, this O.D. does have the "reverse lockout" so the car won't roll backwards and I can't get the column shifter into reverse.  The car is just stuck (probably in reverse).  I also noticed that the lever does not have as much travel that it did originally so something is clearly messed up inside of the overdrive.  I have a feeling that there is probably nothing more that can be done short of pulling the transmission and having someone take the O.D. apart.  Do you agree?  If so, do you know anyone on the west coast (SoCal) that would be qualified to deal with this?  Thanks, Alan

Thanks Dennis, for those photos.

Alan - you will have to make sure your lever (to disengage/engage the overdrive) is at the REAR of the case. Meaning, your cable under the dash should be pushed in. The pawl should be able to slide back towards the opening. There really should not be any play left or right, up or down, so to speak. I have attached a few diagrams from a rebuild manual. The only thing I am unsure of is that the earlier tail housings also had a "reverse lockout" feature that would be an issue if you were in reverse with the OD cable pushed in and tried to roll backwards. Later models made this more of an "automatic" deal so that it was not a concern.




Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Do any of these pictures help. I had my transmission apart to replace the output shaft bearing. Took it for a trip around the block this evening, it gets inspected tomorrow. We leave for Ohio Monday.



  Dennis in Lititz PA