The next day I did a compression check on the one cylinder I had changed a piston 2 yrs ago and the spark plug was coked black. Compression on all were all the same at 150. Having to know, I removed the left cylinder head and found the piston top different than the rest and could wiped clean. With a shop towel. I hate being under the car but removed the pan and the one rod and piston. Cylinder wall was perfect .0005” top to bottom. .0015” clearance on the skirt. Rings looked and were NOS Ford with a chrome top. I decided to replace the rings with Hastings set with cast second and top and the .010 under rod bearing since I was there. 

I also decided to look at the valves on the head. Total miles since a rebuild I knew nothing about was 11K miles in 10 yrs. The intakes were so carboned up it took off the right head and found the same thing. I lapped a few valves and they were good. I was happy to see new seats  If there was any valvewear it was minimal. I bought a .530 seal cutter and installed viton seals. Extra work to check spring height on every one for clearance on the retainers. I also blended the new seats which was not done. 

I’m in reassembly now and after the bottom was back together I installed the heads. At this point I decided to check rocker arm oil. With no plugs, rocker arm assembly or push rods, I ran the engine on the starter. In about 30 seconds I had oil on both sides, the passenger side first. Definitely not a lot but a steady flow. I’m betting there was no cam bearing “trough” or work done to the block. There has always been oil up top and out of the drain lines when the engine was warm.

Just the intake is left and I’ll probably leave the dual quads but the Blue Thunder and new Summit carb I have new in boxes is tempting. I’m hoping this the last time I’ll be in this engine. The single piston swap was my screw up 7 yrs ago and something’s you just continue to pay for. Thanks to Ted and Tim’s advice over the phone as always.. I’ll report back when it runs.