yes i do always put a magnet on the sump plug and it was fluffy.great advice just the same and i thank you for your input

Merry Christmas 

PS get a magnetic drain plug to held catch any metal still in the system

yes i compared the pushrods and they look the same in the cup area,,as for those piece of shit adjusters they have been replaced with good original ones. what could possibly go wrong?? have a good christmas cheers

They are strong enough, do not run a die or thread chaser, those are plated after threading to cause a interference fit (about .003). factory adjusters are hard and brittle but never break.

Speaking of adjusters, why are the self-locking ones hollow and thus very weak structurally? I was chasing/cleaning the threads on some I have and one of them just easily broke in half. I quit on them at that. I didn't want to lose any more of them. Are there any of them available that are solid and thus much stronger? If so, where can I get some of them? Thanks for any replies.

Hi, it looks like all the aftermarket (china) push rods have a cup that is a little under size, if you can compare what you have to a Ford part you maybe good, the aftermarket adjusters have a out of spec heat treatment, they fail quickly and throw metal all through the engine. 

i cliff,,, yes i am using tubular pushrods not the old solid but i do notice the cup shape at the rocker end seems to be slightly different to the original idea and hope this did not add to the problem.what is your opinion on that particular type rod i have used?? any thoughts or experience? we are checking out the falcon adjusters.

Best I remember, in Australia the Ford Falcon 144, 170, and 200 (early) all used the same push rods and rocker adjusters that a Y Block Ford used, use the tubular push rods not solid, you can use the adjuster screws from a 223/215 Ford 6 also.

Oops! I forgot about that.

are you suggesting i throw my pushrods and use the old style solid rod??