Kind of stretching the topic, but. FWIW

A one owner, a/c car with the factory Dealer F code installed has got to be worth a ton more, even if you can see thru the floorboards.

It’ll probably run fine with the blower off, but I’m sure there were differences in the carb (hopefully the F code Teapot, or a modified original) and the distributor (pressure retard) and fuel pump (boost regulated). But someone like Frank, John, Ted, will have to chime in on that. Just the series/code/whatever on the VR housing could be a big deal.

I’ve got Frank’s parts on my cabrio F clone, and a later (not correct) VR57. There’s a spare 57, also not correct, on the shelf.

That is wayyyy cool.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Photos don’t show the steady rest either. I’ve removed mine to make room the fan shroud and transmission cooling lines easier to install. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I talked to him today and he said he ordered the McCullough unit from Fred Jones Ford in Tulsa after driving the car in stock form for awhile. and did say it was a 57 item and he installed it himself. At this point he is thinking of leaving off the factory air and supercharger and just getting it on the road in stock form. He said back in the day the factory air unit pretty much blew cold air up against the windshield. The supercharger was relatively trouble free and is currently rebuilt and mounted on a rebuilt 312. I don't know how much added value a supercharger and or factory air would add to the sale price of a 56 Victoria. If I were 87 and had parts scattered everywhere, I would probably just try to get it on the road in stock form and tinker with the accessories later. 

I wasn't aware that Ford offered a supercharger as a factory option until model year 57.

Lots of illustrations for trucks but nothing for cars, strange..

I agree. I couldn't find an illustration that showed a clear view of the 2 spring with a rectangular rubber mount used in 55-56 anywhere. Looks like the rubber mount is about 1/2 inch thick when new.

Guys, the diagrams shown are for 57, totally different then 55-56. Unfortunately the diagrams that say TYPICAL usually aren't.

Here are a couple more pictures to complement those that Daniel has posted.
  

  

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

A little late to the game but at any rate, here are some photos and a diagram that will help. There is quite a bit more on my 55 Ford Fairlane build and experiences if you visit my personal website, HotRodReverend.com/blog. The diagram from the 1949-59 parts manual is a little vague, but I do believe I have a 1955 Ford specific diagram that I can dig up when I return home and see what shows there. The basic idea is that the rubber pad is sandwiched between the core support and the crossmember, with the two bolts going through to the underside. The springs are to keep tension on the core support obviously and go underneath of the crossmember. Use the nuts to keep tension. Over time, the rubber pad will do what my picture shows and will pancake out (like a lot of time - that was the original pad). Not only does the core support align the radiator but it is the central focus in the front end sheet metal. I would suggest that you snug down the two nuts until the rubber just begins to "squeeze" and then make adjustments once you have the entire front end sheet metal installed. NOTE: in the photo of the hardware - I was missing a washer (one goes on either end of each spring) and the four small body bolts were actually for the radiator to be secured to the core support.




Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

My Model A is set up that way. The Rad sits on top of a spring which sits on top of a rubber pad and then the cross member. A bolt goes through the rad and you tighten it down. However, I have never looked at a 56 core support but it sounds reasonable to me.

Mike