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Hello,
I don’t know the history of my ‘54 Crestline Victoria, but it has a Ford 3-speed with overdrive behind a 312 which I believe to be from 1956. The car has been converted to 12V. I have found that the overdrive solenoid and relay will operate on 12V, but the solenoid holding current draw is 4A where the manual states it should be 2-2.5A. The relay operates as it should on 6V, but the solenoid doesn’t have enough oomph to engage at that voltage. The number 1118168 appears on the end of the solenoid. Resistance to ground is 2.5-2.7 ohms through the pull-in coil of solenoid.
Can anyone tell me whether this is a 6V or 12V solenoid?
1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive
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It sounds like the solenoid is 6V because of the amp draw. The solenoid is an electromagnet and depends more on amperage to operate than it does on voltage. Since a 12V system has half the amperage of a 6V system it's struggling to get enough juice to pull in and hold.. A good analogy would be trying to suck a bowling ball through a soda straw; the solenoid just can't pull enough amps through the finer windings of the 12V solenoid. You basically have 2 options. You can install a solid state voltage reducer, or you can replace the solenoid with a 12V unit (preferred).
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I’m a little confused; my message may have been confusing as well.
Initially, I tested the system with 12V and it worked but drew double the amperage specified.
Then, I purchased a 12V-6V 25A converter to power the overdrive components and my fuel gauge (still 6V original stuff despite conversion). With 6V now feeding the overdrive, the relay still works but the solenoid doesn’t pull in. Based on the number on the solenoid and some web browsing, plus the amp draw at 12V, I believe the solenoid is an original 6V unit—but the fact it won’t operate on 6V has me second-guessing.
1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive
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If you don’t get a solution here, might be worth a call to Van Pelt. One of them is over on the Ford Barn, and they seem to have a pretty good handle on all the o/d transmissions. Worth a call. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
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I don't think your converter is cutting the mustard. This reducer is what I was referring to: https://vintageautogarage.com/borg-warner-r10-r11-overdrive-solenoid-reducer-12volts-to-6-volts/
He also has new manufacture solenoids in 6 and 12V. This would be my preferred method as there's no need to reinvent the wheel with a reducer. https://vintageautogarage.com/relays-solenoids/
If you go with a new solenoid be sure to bench test it to ensure the pull-in coil contact opens the instant the plunger extends. This is the lower set of contacts visible with the cap removed. They can be bent or shimmed with small washers to get proper operation. If they don't open when the plunger extends the high amperage pull-n coil will still be connected. This coil isn't intended for continuous duty and will will burn out the windings in short order. Ask me how I know...
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I am pleased to report that the overdrive is working! The problem turned out to be that the contacts for the pull-in coil were worn sufficiently to create an open circuit, so the hold-in coil was trying to do all the work. I used solder to build the contact back up and shaped it a bit with the grinder, and now it’s working like a champ on 6V.
By the way, the converter I am using was just $25 new from Amazon. I don’t know how long it will prove to last, but I’m happy with it for now.
1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive
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Good you found the issue and that it's now working. However, I personally wouldn't put too much faith repairing a contact with lead/solder. Contacts are made with a high silver alloy to NOT have a tendency to stick/weld together or wear rapidly. Just something to keep in mind........
64F100 57FAIRLANE500
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Yes, I figured the repair would not perform as well as the original contact material. Time will tell how long it can last.
The spring steel piece that the lower contact is mounted on is easy to remove, I actually did it while the solenoid was still installed on the car. It’s just held on with a flathead screw. I wonder if anyone sells replacement for that component alone. It looked like all of the wear was on the lower contact and that’s the one I added solder to.
Hopefully operating on 6V again will maximize what life I can get out of the points as they are.
1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive
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