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Hi All;
Looking for members thoughts on the best place to bolt on lifting "plates" to remove 292 and 4R70 W trans together,now sitting in rolling chassis.I have used the usual lift plate on the intake to lift the motor by itself but uneasy about adding the weight of trans/adapter plate/etc.
I know some suggest using the intake manifold bolts, but which ones, and should they be any longer? Grade 8 of course. The exhaust manifolds are removed , could I use the 4 outmost exhaust manifold holes (longer bolts than stock)? I do have a leveler for the lift. Appreciate any advice/experience anyone can add.
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I number of years ago Hot Rod Magazine ran a test on those intake plates. They used so much weight in these tests that the plates flexed but did not break. They do make me uneasy as well, especially when bolted to an aluminum manifold. Over the years, I have used chains bolted to the exhaust manifold bolt holes with high quality grade 8 bolts. Never had one fail. With the transmission attached, you are going to need a leveling device so you can tilt the engine/transmission in the engine bay.. These are available from a number of sources. They come with chains that I bolt to the same holes. 
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Thank you,
Glad to hear that I can use the exhaust manifold bolt holes. I do have a leveler, chains,grade 8 bolts, etc. Just need that reassurance it will hold.Very much appreciate your input.
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DryLakesRacer (11/29/2021)
I to have always used grade 5 bolting when and where ever I can. Grade 2 bolting is way overkill for 90% of what we do. If you ever looked at the marking of what comes from the factory on our 50’s engines and chassis you can see it. Suspensions are quite different needing better strength but many of us assemble bracing, supports, radiators, heaters, etc with better bolting than the factory ever would have spent. My son and have used an adjustable lifting screw bar countless times on exhaust manifold holes with the chains spaced out on long bolts and never even bent one, this included the transmissions. It always fun to read about experiences others have. And no I don’t like four 5/16” carb studs either.
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I've used the intake (carb) bolts in lifting a couple of differernt engines including yblocks. Never had a problem.
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ
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only takes 1 and you will be a statistic
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Hitting on all eight cylinders
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On my 62 Mercury, I had the heads off, so I used the 4 outermost holes for the heads. I had two chains with those rectangle brackets on the ends - so I was able adjust the lifting point to get it to hang pretty level.
The service manual recommends the exhaust manifold - so that should be fine.
Robert
https://my62mercury.blogspot.com/
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Group: Forum Members
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If you use the carb pad, four grade 5 or better bolts, and a lift plate, you will be safe lifting both items together. Some years ago, I was removing a 428 CJ with the C-6 attached, and as I started lifting the engine out, the hoist got really tight, and on the next pump, the whole front of the mustang started to lift off the floor. I had accidentally left a motor mount bolt through the frame to keep everything in place until I was ready to lift, and I had forgotten it. That was in excess of 2000 lbs that the hoist lifted with those four carb bolts. Since then, and after the Hot Rod article, I have not worried about using the carb pad for any engine such as a 460, FE, Y blocks. Joe-JDC
JDC
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