Hi, I have a T86 3 speed OD with a 5 finger clutch which runs very nice. The transmission has never been rebuilt as far as I know. After warming to normal operating temperature it will occasionally baulk shifting from neutral to 1st which is normal due to synchro and dog teeth wear over time. I’d like to make sure my clutch is adjusted the best it can be to be as gentle on the trans as possible.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

There is no low gear synchro in the T-86 or the T-85 due to the numerically high axle ratios typical of the time. You could actually start out in 2nd on level ground in some cases. Try shifting to 2nd or some other gear before putting it in 1st. That will usually align everything and eliminate or reduce the balkiness or grind. You can grab 1st on the fly if you're barely moving (nearly at a dead stop), you'll just get a gentle grind. Beyond that check/adjust the clutch per the service manual, assuming your clutch isn't worn the the point where it needs to be relined/replaced.

That’s interesting, since there is no synchro for 1st that would suggest these boxes would occasionally balk at 1st when new.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

They could balk going into 1st even when new, it's the nature of the beast. Low gear was typically used for starting from a dead stop only, and shifting to second could be done at speeds as low as 4 or 5 mph. Engines were tuned to emphasize low to mid range torque over ultimate horsepower. Ford didn't synchronize 1st until mid year 1963, IIRC.

Wow, then my clutch and old OD are in better shape than I thought; I never have a problem between 1st & reverse or 2nd & 3rd. Great info, you made my day. Thanks 😊

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

Glad I could help.

You could also save syncro wear by shifting to low or reverse BEFORE starting (‘balk’ is usually only after clutch is spinning).  Warming up the motor first just wastes gas.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

When satisfied the clutch is adjusted properly and before installing the flywheel dusrt cover, I often perform this simple procedure:   Have an assistant push the clutch pedal slowly to the floor and watch the action of the pressure plate release the disc.  With the tips of your fingers, (engine not running) you should be able to spin the disc with out effort. This will at least  insure any rtransmission/bellhoiusig misallighment is not causing anything to bind and same for the pilot bearing.  The above mentioned issues will increase the time it takes for the disc to stop turnig when the clutch is disengaged.  An easy test that proves the disc is completely free to rotate when the clutch is disengeged.  

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Good point, thanks 😊

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

I used to have a problem popping out of second while decelerating, checking the linkage schematic I saw ford used wave as well as flat washers in the shifter arms, all I had was one flat washer next to the cotter pins. Adding the correct washers was all I needed, they also got rid of a lot of sloppy play in the shift lever.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY