Thats right folks after 20 years the ARP oil drives have the clip on the bottom of the drive (and it the correct diameter) and laser etching is correct!

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

I have an earlier one currently in mine should I look to change it an how will I know when I get it it’s not the same without taking it out. I felt the hex was looser and it was a few thousandths less. I don’t remember how much at this time..Thanks

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

When I rebuilt my 292 engine two years ago I used an ARP oil pump drive and a new oil pump. I noticed the ARP drive did not have the clip.  Instead, it was thicker than the stock part prevented it from coming out with the distributor. When I installed the oil new pump, the oil pump would not bolt down all the way.  Upon inspection, the drive end where it goes into the pump was about 1/8" too long putting the drive in a bind. I ground down the end of the drive for the proper clearance and it has worked fine since.

If an engine is up and running, there is no need to replace an older ARP shaft with the newer version.  The washer location and it's size would be the obvious change.  For all intent and purposes, the only reason the washer was put on the shaft in the first place was to initially facilitate the engine assembly and then later, the removal of the distributor for service without the shaft also coming out of the engine.

More detail as to what John brings up is that for years ARP put the flex washer at the top of the distributor drive rather than at the bottom where it belonged.  To compound the problem, ARP was also using the smaller diameter washer like the one used on the FE, SBF, & BBF engines instead of the required larger diameter washer that is used on the FYB and LYB engines.  The problem with the washer being at the top of the shaft is that on most Ford Y’s that washer was pressed up against the bottom of the distributor boss in the block thus preventing any free play in the shaft and creating a subsequent failure of the washer remaining on the shaft once the engine was running.  Simply moving the ARP supplied washer to the bottom of the shaft wasn’t much help as it was the smaller diameter washer and did not prevent the shaft from being disengaged from the oil pump when the distributor was being removed.  I had also brought this to ARP’s attention several years ago but it fell on deaf ears.  For years, I simply discarded the ARP supplied washer that was at the top of the shaft and simply put the ‘Ford’ washer on the bottom where it belonged.  Glad that ARP has finally addressed the problem as it was indeed a problem.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Now I'm wondering what oil pump drive shaft I have in my engine?  My shaft had no clip.  It was larger in diameter than the hole where it goes through the block prevented it from coming out with the distributor. Both ends of the shaft were cut down to fit the oil pump and the bottom of the distributor. Could there be two different shafts?

The FE shaft is similar but is longer.  It can be used in a Y-Block but cut down to fit.  Could this be your case?

I thought about that myself.  That must be the case. The FE shaft is much thick than the stock Y-Block shaft.  Works perfect if you grind a little off the end.  Thanks!

Is there a different part number or packaging so we can make sure we aren't buying one of the old faulty ones?

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

The part number is the same for both the old version and the new.  There will undoubtedly be some old stock remaining out there.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)