If you want 292 inches like Ted Eaton says bore yours out to std 292 and buy some pistons and rings. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Actually after all the input from all of you
I decided not to buy that engine in the pictures, I ended up keeping the original 272 that came with the truck as far as I know

1956 F100 272 4 speed
Northern California

So what was the outcome on this? Have you checked it out?

Thank you

1956 F100 272 4 speed
Northern California

Before rockers get hot enough to show discoloration, the shafts will gall and there will be metal sitting loose.  As the heads look fresh and low mileage since they were rebuilt, the blue tint may be from when the rocker arms were refurbished.  Depending upon how fresh the oil was and how the engine was handled during storage, it’s possible for any residual oil to have drained back to the pan.
 
As mentioned earlier, just prime the oil system and see how much oil actually comes to the top end.  Take note that when priming the engine, the left bank typically gets oil before the right bank does assuming you are dealing with a grooved center journal camshaft and not a cross drilled camshaft.  The ’63 and ’64 engines used cross drilled camshafts but those are easily swapped out for grooved journal camshafts during a rebuild.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

There is a blue tint on a couple of those rockers and I was wondering if that would mean that they might have gotten hot

1956 F100 272 4 speed
Northern California

I thought of that, but it just doesn't look from here like much if any oil to speak of is getting up there in the first place. Oil does more than lubricate too, an important secondary function is to carry engine heat away, particularly components whose needs aren't adequately met by the cooling system. Valve springs probably qualify. A certain minimum oil flow volume is required.

tedster is correct,but by restricting the drain tubes, limited supply would go to all of the rocker shaft, if the cam has holes in the dastribution will be limited until engine is running pre lube will be hard to assess. as engine must rotate to check flow

Thanks I will take a look

1956 F100 272 4 speed
Northern California

Restricting the drain tube oil flow will not particularly remedy a situation where sufficient oil flow is not being achieved in the first place. Everything up top there should show a general coating of oil throughout, and we're not seeing that....

Oil doesn't evaporate like say, water, it doesn't really go away, an engine sitting for months at a time should still show plenty of oil coating parts throughout once the valve covers are removed. There should be a "trough" of oil at the low point along the head leading to the drain holes. I'd first maybe suggest removing the rocker arm shaft assemblies on both sides and checking the oil flow through the heads. Can power the oil pump with a drill, or simply remove the spark plugs and crank the starter over for several seconds.