NOS distributor shafts are readily available, and not especially expensive, BUT, they are of the earlier style that takes the cast "comma" style centrifugal flyweights. This style of weight have a hardened steel pin that rides in the reluctor slots, with long use these become excessively worn. This type of reluctor in turn is hard to source, and or expensive. So the whole operation quickly turns into a small to medium pain in the you know what. A good distributor with in spec dimensions and runout or side wobble tolerances is key to getting a smooth running motor under different operating conditions, an ignition scope will bear this out. Many hard to diagnose idle problems can be traced back to a worn distributor, excessive backlash in the gear, etc. This is true even with electronic points replacement modules. They are less affected than mechanical points but they are not immune.

GOOGLE B7A 12175-A

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I don't know a solution for sure, but what about cleaning up the metal shaft & then machining & installing a thicker bushing?  Feasible ?..


Paul

The bushing itself is easy. What I found though, is replacement of the bushing won't necessarily clean up all of the excessive sideplay. The distributor shaft is made of steel, but it will likely show significant wear as well.

If the distributor shaft must be replaced as well, it quickly gets more complicated. The reason is because the replacement shafts are not drilled for the gear installation. As you are undoubtedly aware, distributor dimensions in terms of length or endplay are critical. The distributor gear must be located and drilled with a degree of accuracy within a few thousandths.

The parts themselves can also be difficult to locate. This is why remanufactured distributors are so scarce.

Not withstanding that those parts look very good, my experience with Y-Block distributors is that often they need the main shaft bushing (s) replaced.  Two units I've had when checked with a Dwell meter, running, showed noticeable variance in readings, indicating a worn bushing. (s) How difficult would that be to do?..    


Paul

Yes.  I guess everyone likes the late 59 and up ones better.





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

The upper number, just below the top of the bowl, has FEK and I believe the number after it is 29323 with no suffix. 
The lower stamping looks to be "6A4" but it is blurry and I'm not as sure about that number.

THANX! for that, short eyeballs here.

Both DIST are the 57-59 single breaker plate design, THE FEK 57 FORD 312 and the B9FA 1959 292 original application.

Maybe this will help in selling them.

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The upper number, just below the top of the bowl, has FEK and I believe the number after it is 29323 with no suffix. 
The lower stamping looks to be "6A4" but it is blurry and I'm not as sure about that number

That's the DIST ID, FEK-12127 and not the DIST Bowl Casting No. FEK 12131, correct?

I don't understand why no one has jumped?

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The second one starts with FEK





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ