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Fuel Pump Inlet/Outlet identification

Posted By Jack Groat 2 Weeks Ago
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Jack Groat
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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Bought a brand new fuel pump from Speedway.  I cannot find any markings on the pump nor was there any paperwork that came with it.  I will post a photo.  Tell me which is the inlet and which is the outlet.  Tell me top or bottom.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/80aaed8c-e817-449d-8601-a192.jpg
Dobie
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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Inlet at bottom, outlet at top. If your old one is still hooked up just put the lines back on as they are now.
Jack Groat
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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Thanks.. 

What makes this build so difficult is that there is no "old one".  I decided to build this engine from scratch.  I started by buying a couple of junkyard 292 engines and paying freight from far away.  Because I am a handicapped person I hired a professional mechanic who moonlights to strip these engines.  I was not there for most of the things he did.  He kept things like old fuel pumps, oil pumps, water pumps, timing chain, distributor, front cover.  All these items I bought new anyway.  He threw out oil pans, pickup tubes, dipsticks, crankcase vent, fan pulley, crankshaft bolt and washer, and pretty much every fastener.  For example, he kept the distributor but threw out the little clamp that holds the distributor in place.  This has sent me scrambling on here and other places to find the missing parts.

Luckily, my son who has never assembled an engine or even saw the inside of one before volunteered to do this one as long as I told him what to do.  It has worked out well and he says he is learning a lot.  

Once done, it is going into my '56 Crown Vic that already has a decent motor, but not a "super" motor.


55blacktie
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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Not all fuel pumps are the same. If Speedway can't tell you, find the same pump on Summit, and post your question if not already answered. You can also search for images of your specific pump. You might find a photo of it installed, showing the location of the fuel lines.

I don't understand why manufacturers don't have "I" and "O" cast into the body.
55blacktie
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Summit has Spectra SP105MP pump that is very similar to the one in your photo. The Spectra pump has "OUT" cast into the pump body, next to the upper fuel-line connection. The line would attach to the carburetor.
Tedster
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That is the same style pump that a lot of different vendors sell. Lots of reports of failures if the various forums are any guide, the internals are not made of good materials or poorly assembled.

Also be sure to measure the fuel pump output pressure, and volume. I installed one that looked exactly like that one, and had to run the carb float all the way down to the bottom of its travel in the bowl to keep it from flooding. It measured over 8 psi. 4 to 5 psi is plenty, and happens to be the factory spec for many, if not all carburetors.
Ted
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Most of those pumps are labeled as to the inlet and outlet.  The labels may be under the ports rather than on the sides of them.  As Dobie mentions, top is to the carb and bottom goes to the fuel tank.  Here are a couple of pictures of a FE pump that is labeled as to which port is which.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/f187ac2f-123f-4b67-8b55-6621.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/16358f51-2069-4918-80e8-e60c.jpg 



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Rusty_S85
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Jack Groat (11/9/2020)
Thanks.. 

What makes this build so difficult is that there is no "old one".  I decided to build this engine from scratch.  I started by buying a couple of junkyard 292 engines and paying freight from far away.  Because I am a handicapped person I hired a professional mechanic who moonlights to strip these engines.  I was not there for most of the things he did.  He kept things like old fuel pumps, oil pumps, water pumps, timing chain, distributor, front cover.  All these items I bought new anyway.  He threw out oil pans, pickup tubes, dipsticks, crankcase vent, fan pulley, crankshaft bolt and washer, and pretty much every fastener.  For example, he kept the distributor but threw out the little clamp that holds the distributor in place.  This has sent me scrambling on here and other places to find the missing parts.

Luckily, my son who has never assembled an engine or even saw the inside of one before volunteered to do this one as long as I told him what to do.  It has worked out well and he says he is learning a lot.  

Once done, it is going into my '56 Crown Vic that already has a decent motor, but not a "super" motor.




Maybe this will help you with some of the parts.  If you are in need of some of the parts let me know and I can get you the part number for you to try and source one else where.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b5d09dd9-667c-4a03-acd7-2ede.png

For the distributor hold down, its a FAA-12270-A number and there is none on Ebay currently.  New Holland Tractors how ever sells a distributor hold down by the same part number which should be correct.  Its for the 54-64 Ford tractors which shared many parts with the Y block such as the starter and the generator.

The bolt for this is 20386-S8, some times you can source fastners by Ford`s part number but lots of time you cant and this is one of those times I cant source it but all you need is just the length of the bolt as its a standard SAE bolt.  You will also need a proper lockwasher as well for the bolt you end up using.

Distributor would be something a bit harder to find depending on what you want.  If you are running like me the old Holley 4000 then youll need the 56 style distributor with dual reservior vacuum.  If you are running the 57 and up holley then youll need a 57 and up distributor with mechanical advance.  The distributor wont be too hard to get if you dont mind paying a core charge or you could pick up a cheapie off ebay that most likely is no good and send it in as a core.  The thing that will get you is the vacuum advance if you need the dual reservoir vacuum advance which can be pricy.  Number for this is B6A-12370-B and there are quite a few on ebay, I lucked out and got a working NOS unit for $140.

But still if you need part numbers for some harder to find parts let me know by the reference number and I can look up the part number you will need.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

paul2748
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If you need  a distributor hold down, i have one for the price of shipping.  email or PM me


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Jack Groat
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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Thanks for the replies..  I can see how my grumbling about missing small parts led readers to believe I didn't have them but I have most if not all thanks to a member (Carl) on here a while back.  I sent him a list and he had nearly every part.  My last missing part was a water pump bypass tube which I found online for $10.


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