A thin film of RTV in the groove of the Dorman 42323 grommet before installing it in the existing valley cover hole will tighten it up in that hole and make for a better seal.  Just be sure to give the sealant enough time to cure before running the engine.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted: My installation is almost identical to that shown in your 1st photo.  The main issue apparently is the Grommet, which is #SPC 7205.  As mentioned the flange of the Valley cover is quite shallow & that grommet doesn't fit it well, as the indentation in the rubber is wider than the flange, so when wet with oil it has a tendency to " lift" enough to noisely lose crankcase vacuum. So, the question is, does the Dorman grommet  #42323 fit really well into the stk cover?.  Other possible grommets?   Thanks...

N.B.- follow up;  Also discouvered that the PCV hose I used was not rated or heavy enough for PCV vacuum. It was partly collapsing, so bought a rated hose & installed it with sealent on the existing Grommet as Ted recommended.. Haven't had an opportunity to test it further. Will advise it there is further issues..  Thanks      


Paul

no i just use a pcv in the line itself.not threaded.i usually use a 90 degree one

Darrell, when using one of the bells in the photo, do you used an middle 60’s threaded PCV valve usually under or at the rear of the carburetor? I have a replacement Mercury valve and am in the process of cleaning up the valley cover which has the 3 sided square box about 1-1/8” down from the cover. My cover came with bell with a 1/2” diameter tube on it. Thanks...

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

i use those oem bells and make an inline setup.cheap and easy.

If not using an aftermarket aluminum valley cover, I use the 1958-1964 valley covers with the rear road draft tube / PCV hole without issue when converting to a PCV valve.  You do have to watch out for those lower vent baffles in those oem valley covers being damaged and/or pushed upwards and if not corrected by hammering them back down, they can have an installed PCV valve being too close to the baffle.  In the grand scheme of things I would prefer at least ¼” between the bottom of the PCV valve and the baffle.  For most I will use a grommet at the existing valley cover hole and remove the hollow tapped extension that resides in that hole.  There are those instances that I will machine an extension that fits the valley cover hole that allows the ¼-20 tapped hollow stud to be retained. For the Ford Y my PCV valve of choice is the Microgard #2322 PCV valve.
 
Here’s a picture of a typical PCV valve hookup.
 
 
And here’s a picture where an extended housing was made so that the original hollow stud could be retained in the event the road draft tube needed to be reinstalled for restoration purposes.
 
 
Here’s a picture of the oem ‘bells’ used at the valley cover for the factory PCV valve installations.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

My 57 car has a PCV valve setup installed at the rear of a late style valley cover. The stock 3 sided oil deflector is still on the underside of the cover.
Regulars here or readers of Y--Block Magazine are probably aware that there can be issues with these setups. Here's another one.- I haven't driven my setup a lot & it seemed to be working reasonably well without noticeable issues. Not until the other day, when I was moving at about 50 mph, when I Iifted my foot off the accelerator, there was a fairly noisy "sucking sound". Step back on the throttle, gone, off the throttle there it was again. So, went home & lifted the hood & with the engine running, went to the the throttle off & on. There it was..the noise is in the PCV setup. It seems that oil residue had gotten into the valve area & the Grommet in the cover was lifting somewhat & causing the noise. The flange of the valley cover there, is rather shallow & that grommet, SPC 7205 does not fit tight enough "vertically" to avoid a problem when oil soaked. So, it needs a different Grommet & if the valley cover was off, I'd be looking at some type of improvement in the oil control.. My first thought is that maybe a vertical sheet metal piece hanging in front of the open side of the box, say  about 1/4" out & down lower than the box might help?  Suggestions?.. And for the record the valve is #2072 which was spec'd for a smaller V-6 engine.. Thanks 


Paul