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Sticking thermostat

Posted By DryLakesRacer Last Month
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DryLakesRacer
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Even tho it says it, I believe thermostat is not sticking and in a pan of hot water it never fails. What I have 292  Edelbrock dual quad manifold, Vacuum heated control. 170* high flow thermostat. 

The vacuum heater control valve on an Edelbrock manifold is closer to the thermostat than on a stock intake. I believe the extension on a vacuum valve hits or interferes with the action of the thermostat spring at times, It seem to be a problem when cold on first start-up more than after it has ran.

Has anyone else had this problem or do you see any reason to not remove or shorten the extension on the the heater valve which protrudes into the area of the the thermostat. The extension screws into the valve body. A non high flow is smaller in diameter at the spring but I've fought a cooling problem for years and it seems to be fixed and I don't really want to change the high flow back to standard.

Cooling fixes include: 5 blade fan, radiator shroud, plug in bypass with 1/8" hole, and smaller water pump pulley. Open for suggestions.. Thanks



56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
55blacktie
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Wanting to eliminate vacuum lines, I'm switching to a manual heater control valve and electric wipers. The manual heater control kit is less than $100, and it's an easy installation. My kit came with no instructions, but I was able to get them, including photos, from another source. A new vacuum heater control valve costs more than the manual conversion, and they have been known to fail. 
DryLakesRacer
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I can understand what your saying. 7 years ago i had a vacuum one fail. I've converted to Newport wipers but at this time I don't want to add any more cables under the hood or dash.

 Not sure on the 55 but if you start having a problem installing the Newport electric motor; after struggling for an hour to put in the new attaching screws on my 56 stock brackets,  I used 2 longer 10-32 screws from the top down as studs, took 2 10-32 nuts from my stash and had it in 2 minutes. They work great....

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
miker
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55blacktie, FWIW. If you got one of these from the T bird guys check it first. They say it only works one way, but I've had several that leak if the engine rpm goes over about 3000. Big blast of hot air and it takes forever to blow out of the heater.

I couldn't get the picture to copy, here's a link to the typical one.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TEM935813?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3oCi49vD6wIVEz6tBh01kgAqEAQYBSABEgKjDPD_BwE

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
paul2748
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I haven't had the problem. but I have heard from others that the heater control or any other piece (like an elbow  if using a inline control) in the intake can interfere with the operation of the thermostat.  I would check this out .

Another thing I have found out using the plug in the by-pass hose - on initial warm up it will cause the water to get very hot before the thermostat opens.(and will peg the gauge).  Once the thermostat opens, it's ok.  With the plug, you should be using the special thermostat with extra holes to allow for some coolant to flow. 

t
DryLakesRacer (8/30/2020)
Has anyone else had this problem or do you see any reason to not remove or shorten the extension on the the heater valve which protrudes into the area of the the thermostat. The extension screws into the valve body. A non high flow is smaller in diameter at the spring but I've fought a cooling problem for years and it seems to be fixed and I don't really want to change the high flow back to standard.

Cooling fixes include: 5 blade fan, radiator shroud, plug in bypass with 1/8" hole, and smaller water pump pulley. Open for suggestions.. Thanks





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

DryLakesRacer
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Thanks Paul. I have 1/8” hole in the bypass plug to assure there is some flow or circulation of water in the block during warmups none however goes through to radiator with it either open or plugged with a hole.
The thermostat has a flat area where there is a small diameter hole with a device for doing the same thing. Over the years I have drilled 2-3 extra holes on the flat area of thermostats but not on this one. Photos show the internal flapper (both sides) to insure some flow thru the radiator.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
55blacktie
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Thanks for the tip. Fortunately, I've removed the seat for new upholstery, so I have more space to work in. I'm not a big guy, but I am claustrophobic. I don't like working underneath the car either, but I can't afford to pay someone else to do it. Even if I could, I have a problem paying for something I can do myself. If I screw up, I have only myself to blame, but my wife will say otherwise.
55blacktie
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Yep, mine came from Tbird supplier, but the housing is plastic. I don't know if that's good or bad. Better it's in the engine compartment. 
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55. I was 75 when I put mine in. I unbolted the seat and moved it back against the rear seat. My wife was in the back seat to hand me tools I’d set on the front seat. My radio was out getting converted to am/fm/blue tooth. I laid on my back with a milk crate next to the open door with a moving pad on it for more support.
She is always my helping hand since our kids moved away. She helps with all the brake bleeding both for the 8.8 I put in the rear and the Wilwood disc kit I put on the front. When our kids were real young she worked the floor jack when I put transmissions in our race car... stuck with me 54 year so far...

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
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Its been a while since I visited the Stewart Components site so I don't know what they currently offer for a "ventilated" high flow thermostat. In the past they drilled some free flow holes in their offerings so that the thermostat was not a total seal when closed - a controlled leak as it were. I know they were offering the "Robert Shaw" type of poppet but the other types should work too.http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/dd9e7196-0c63-427f-af1d-aad2.jpg
These two t-stats fit the same opening but have way different flow ratings. But even the large port variety has room for some "owner drilled" relief holes -1/8 or 5/32 drill bit? Rather than deadhead the cooling circuit it allows water flow toward the operating "pill" that then pulls the poppet open. When combined with the small orifice hole in the bypass plug - a fair amount of water can move. You may have to add one or more to make yours have a better "leak rate".

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona


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